Recessed lens board size help requested

[hroark]

I have recently acquired a Linhof Technika IV, including a Schneider 90mm Super Angulon f/8. This lens is mounted on a flat lens board and using rise/fall knob is quite difficult (yeah, I know, preaching to the choir here). Original recessed lens boards for the 90mm I think are 15mm deep, but I could be wrong (maybe I don’t know where to look for those specifications). I’ve found 3rd party lens boards that are recessed 20mm, an original Linhof board recessed 11.5mm, and what looks to be an original 15mm recessed board (it’s the gold/blond look of the camera I have). Of course the 20mm 3rd party board is less expensive.

Any suggestions on which way to go?

 

[abruzzi]

the only drawback I can think of for going with the most recessed you can find is that it may make manipulation of the controls on the shutter a bit harder. That can be exacerbated by a large front element, so the fact that you have an ƒ8 and not a ƒ5.6 makes it more managable. Does the no-name 20mm board include a linkage to move the shutter release attachment to the front of the board?

 

[hroark]

the only drawback I can think of for going with the most recessed you can find is that it may make manipulation of the controls on the shutter a bit harder. That can be exacerbated by a large front element, so the fact that you have an ƒ8 and not a ƒ5.6 makes it more managable. Does the no-name 20mm board include a linkage to move the shutter release attachment to the front of the board?

Seems to… this is it: https://www.etonephoto.com/products...ard-technika-wista-shen-hao-ebony-tachihara-1

 

[abruzzi]

the annoying thing about the shutter linkage setup on official linhof boards is you can't directly connect a shutter release cable to them. instead, they have a quick release setup that requires you have a special nub screwed on to the end of your shutter release cable. I'd go with the board you linked to, but if you're likely to use flash, the shutters PC cable may be hard to get to, and it may be difficult to see the aperture you're setting. Usually on most shutters the shutter speed is easily visible on the front, but the aperture is visible around the ring. The item in the link has the shutter hole off-center which should help make things on the top more visible.

 

[hroark]

the annoying thing about the shutter linkage setup on official linhof boards is you can't directly connect a shutter release cable to them. instead, they have a quick release setup that requires you have a special nub screwed on to the end of your shutter release cable. I'd go with the board you linked to, but if you're likely to use flash, the shutters PC cable may be hard to get to, and it may be difficult to see the aperture you're setting. Usually on most shutters the shutter speed is easily visible on the front, but the aperture is visible around the ring. The item in the link has the shutter hole off-center which should help make things on the top more visible.

Thanks, I appreciate the tips. No flash for me, all landscape photography. Also, this explains why I have seen people apply stickers / labels in the inside of recessed boards to indicate the aperture setting.

 

[xkaes]

Unfortunately there isn't ONE place where you can find out everything about all recessed lens boards.

They come in different sizes, of course, as well as how deep they are, AND how wide the recess is.

You need one that isn't TOO deep (or you can't reach the controls for your specific lens), and not too wide (so it will fit on your camera). Only you can figure that out.

I found a generic board (about 12mm deep) that has a external cable release connection that I MacGyvered to work with a thick, bent paper clip. I think it was $40.

One more thing is an off-set for the hole. Depending on the shutter controls, the hole probably needs to be off-set (usually dropped) to allow access to the controls on the top of the shutter. How much? Another thing for you to figure out -- get out your shutter, the dimensions of the lens board, a piece of paper and a pencil.

 

[abruzzi]

tecknika style recessed board usually have the recess the same diameter as the circular light trap so the should fit, however I have encountered some that are a bit too tight. I do have one of those e-tone boards that I mounted a 65mm Angulon in, and it fits my technikardan 23S just fine, so assuming linhof is consistant, that one should probably fit.

 

[Kilgallb]

I have the f8 super angular in a 20mm recessed lens board. There is no problem seeing or adjusting the f-stop or the shutter speed. I bought a u shaped device to adapt the cable release. I bought this one from B&H.

https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwiZvO2K6bT9AhXkOn0KHRqZC08QFnoECA4QAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bhphotovideo.com%2Fc%2Fproduct%2F233730-REG%2FGepe_603005_U_Hook_Adapter.html&usg=AOvVaw1Oda9o4bANwSd_i8h2B9YO

 

[hroark]

I have the f8 super angular in a 20mm recessed lens board. There is no problem seeing or adjusting the f-stop or the shutter speed. I bought a u shaped device to adapt the cable release. I bought this one from B&H.

https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwiZvO2K6bT9AhXkOn0KHRqZC08QFnoECA4QAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bhphotovideo.com%2Fc%2Fproduct%2F233730-REG%2FGepe_603005_U_Hook_Adapter.html&usg=AOvVaw1Oda9o4bANwSd_i8h2B9YO

Awesome, thank you for the pointer!!

 

[Doremus Scudder]

I, too, have my SA 90mm f/8 and a Nikkor SW 90mm f/8 in ~20mm recessed Technika-style boards (not sure if they're genuine Linhof or Wista or no-name boards - I have all kinds). I set the aperture with the end of the cable release, the other controls I can get to with my fingers.

One of my recessed boards has the cable-release linkage, the other doesn't; it has a permanently-mounted cable release that was attached before the lens was mounted to the board. It's been working just fine for 25+ years. The 90° cable-release adapters are good too.

If you need to use flash, there are also 90° PC-cord adapters.

Best,

Doremus

 

[Mick Fagan]

As far as I know, this is a third party lens board, I seem to remember someone quite some time ago mentioned that the number on my board, was a part number for the generic board maker.

This is my Fujinon SWD f/5.6 65mm lens in a recessed board, which is around 10mm deep, possibly 11mm deep, but it is in that depth vicinity. Things are tight, as you can see, this is a 0 shutter hole for reference.

I use my pen or pencil to move the aperture, otherwise I would be stuffed.

 

[hroark]

I, too, have my SA 90mm f/8 and a Nikkor SW 90mm f/8 in ~20mm recessed Technika-style boards (not sure if they're genuine Linhof or Wista or no-name boards - I have all kinds). I set the aperture with the end of the cable release, the other controls I can get to with my fingers.

One of my recessed boards has the cable-release linkage, the other doesn't; it has a permanently-mounted cable release that was attached before the lens was mounted to the board. It's been working just fine for 25+ years. The 90° cable-release adapters are good too.

If you need to use flash, there are also 90° PC-cord adapters.

Best,

Doremus

Thanks for the pointers. Really helpful.

 

[hroark]

As far as I know, this is a third party lens board, I seem to remember someone quite some time ago mentioned that the number on my board, was a part number for the generic board maker.

This is my Fujinon SWD f/5.6 65mm lens in a recessed board, which is around 10mm deep, possibly 11mm deep, but it is in that depth vicinity. Things are tight, as you can see, this is a 0 shutter hole for reference.

I use my pen or pencil to move the aperture, otherwise I would be stuffed.



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Thanks for the picks and dimensions. That helps me understand better what to expect!

 

[Rick A]

After you've mounted the lens in a recessed board you will need a cable release adapter.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/233735-REG/Gepe_603007_Cable_Release_Extension_f.html

 

[xkaes]

The board in the photos (above) is very similar to mine. If you look carefully, you can see that the hole for the lens is off-set (dropped) slightly -- to allow for access to the lens controls.

You'll also notice that it has a cable release connection -- AND a piece of wire to actually push the shutter release. Mine was missing that extra wire, so I took a thick paper clip and bent it/cut it to the required size and shape.

 

[Petrochemist]

All my recessed boards/adapters are 20mm deep, but they are for the large toyo monorail cameras (boards 158mm across) so access to controls should be less of an issue. FWIW all the large Toyo recessed boards seem to be this depth.

For my latest lens I'm considering making a (significantly) extended lens board. The lens is a 480mm, which is longer than the maximum length of my standard bellows. I can combine two bellows to use it (with a central standard) but it will be a pain. (I should have thought a little before buying, but I'm a sucker for a bargain)

 

[Mick Fagan]

All my recessed boards/adapters are 20mm deep, but they are for the large toyo monorail cameras (boards 158mm across) so access to controls should be less of an issue. FWIW all the large Toyo recessed boards seem to be this depth.

I too run a Toyo monorail, 45G to be precise. I have a single adaptor board which allows me to use any of my lenses, which are all mounted on the smaller boards, on either my Shen Hao wooden folder directly or using the adaptor board directly on to the Toyo 45G.

 

[Jan Steinman]

I, too, have my SA 90mm f/8 and a Nikkor SW 90mm f/8 in ~20mm recessed Technika-style boards… I set the aperture with the end of the cable release, the other controls I can get to with my fingers.

I agree. I don't find it hard to use the shutter and lens. The cable is a bit difficult to attach, but I can do it.

To me, the biggest drawback with this lens and my Super Technika — even on the recessed board — is that it is difficult to focus with movements, because you have to crank the focus back so far that the lens standard is no longer on the track.

 

[Petrochemist]

All my recessed boards/adapters are 20mm deep, but they are for the large toyo monorail cameras (boards 158mm across) so access to controls should be less of an issue. FWIW all the large Toyo recessed boards seem to be this depth.

For my latest lens I'm considering making a (significantly) extended lens board. The lens is a 480mm, which is longer than the maximum length of my standard bellows. I can combine two bellows to use it (with a central standard) but it will be a pain. (I should have thought a little before buying, but I'm a sucker for a bargain)

It seems I was wrong here, the one which has my Grandagon mounted is 40mm deep!

 

[Stephen McAteer]

As far as I know, this is a third party lens board, I seem to remember someone quite some time ago mentioned that the number on my board, was a part number for the generic board maker.

This is my Fujinon SWD f/5.6 65mm lens in a recessed board, which is around 10mm deep, possibly 11mm deep, but it is in that depth vicinity. Things are tight, as you can see, this is a 0 shutter hole for reference.

I use my pen or pencil to move the aperture, otherwise I would be stuffed.



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Mick — are you using this board on a Technika? I'm looking at getting a 65mm 5.6 for my Technika V and not sure which lens board I need / how deeply recessed it needs to be. Thanks for any info.

 

[xkaes]

I'm not sure what the minimum bellows is on your camera, but the Fujinon 65mm has a flange focal length of about 75mm -- http://www.subclub.org/fujinon/byfl.htm -- so I can use a flat board on my camera.

I do use a recessed board (1/2"/12mm) for one of my lenses, but the #0 hole is offset (lower than center) so that the controls on the shutter can operate.

IF you need a recessed board, you need to get the depth correct, as well as the width of the recess (so it will fit your shutter), and the amount of offset needed to allow access to the shutter controls. And then there is the cable release connection "challenge".

All of that takes time to figure out, so don't be surprised if you need to try a couple of boards before you find the one best for you -- I know I did.

 

[Stephen McAteer]

@xkaes Thanks for that information and link. It seems that recessed lens boards are a world unto themselves. I'll do some more research and hopefully figure it out. Cheers.

 

[xkaes]

Check the pictures of the Fujinon lens (above), and you'll see it is offset -- so that there is room to access the preview lever, PC contact, etc. If the recess is too deep, you can't reach these -- and maintain your sanity.

 

[Stephen McAteer]

Check the pictures of the Fujinon lens (above), and you'll see it is offset -- so that there is room to access the preview lever, PC contact, etc. If the recess is too deep, you can't reach these -- and maintain your sanity.

Thanks. Yes — I see that now. I'm looking at a board on eBay with a recess of 21mm, which seems kind of deep to me. I think what I will do is get the lens first, then measure how much recess I need. Cheers.

 

[xkaes]

21mm is pretty deep. It might be too much. What is the minimum bellows for your camera?