the only drawback I can think of for going with the most recessed you can find is that it may make manipulation of the controls on the shutter a bit harder. That can be exacerbated by a large front element, so the fact that you have an ƒ8 and not a ƒ5.6 makes it more managable. Does the no-name 20mm board include a linkage to move the shutter release attachment to the front of the board?
the annoying thing about the shutter linkage setup on official linhof boards is you can't directly connect a shutter release cable to them. instead, they have a quick release setup that requires you have a special nub screwed on to the end of your shutter release cable. I'd go with the board you linked to, but if you're likely to use flash, the shutters PC cable may be hard to get to, and it may be difficult to see the aperture you're setting. Usually on most shutters the shutter speed is easily visible on the front, but the aperture is visible around the ring. The item in the link has the shutter hole off-center which should help make things on the top more visible.
I have the f8 super angular in a 20mm recessed lens board. There is no problem seeing or adjusting the f-stop or the shutter speed. I bought a u shaped device to adapt the cable release. I bought this one from B&H.
I, too, have my SA 90mm f/8 and a Nikkor SW 90mm f/8 in ~20mm recessed Technika-style boards (not sure if they're genuine Linhof or Wista or no-name boards - I have all kinds). I set the aperture with the end of the cable release, the other controls I can get to with my fingers.
One of my recessed boards has the cable-release linkage, the other doesn't; it has a permanently-mounted cable release that was attached before the lens was mounted to the board. It's been working just fine for 25+ years. The 90° cable-release adapters are good too.
If you need to use flash, there are also 90° PC-cord adapters.
Best,
Doremus
As far as I know, this is a third party lens board, I seem to remember someone quite some time ago mentioned that the number on my board, was a part number for the generic board maker.
This is my Fujinon SWD f/5.6 65mm lens in a recessed board, which is around 10mm deep, possibly 11mm deep, but it is in that depth vicinity. Things are tight, as you can see, this is a 0 shutter hole for reference.
I use my pen or pencil to move the aperture, otherwise I would be stuffed.
View attachment 330806
View attachment 330807
All my recessed boards/adapters are 20mm deep, but they are for the large toyo monorail cameras (boards 158mm across) so access to controls should be less of an issue. FWIW all the large Toyo recessed boards seem to be this depth.
I, too, have my SA 90mm f/8 and a Nikkor SW 90mm f/8 in ~20mm recessed Technika-style boards… I set the aperture with the end of the cable release, the other controls I can get to with my fingers.
All my recessed boards/adapters are 20mm deep, but they are for the large toyo monorail cameras (boards 158mm across) so access to controls should be less of an issue. FWIW all the large Toyo recessed boards seem to be this depth.
For my latest lens I'm considering making a (significantly) extended lens board. The lens is a 480mm, which is longer than the maximum length of my standard bellows. I can combine two bellows to use it (with a central standard) but it will be a pain. (I should have thought a little before buying, but I'm a sucker for a bargain)
Mick — are you using this board on a Technika? I'm looking at getting a 65mm 5.6 for my Technika V and not sure which lens board I need / how deeply recessed it needs to be. Thanks for any info.As far as I know, this is a third party lens board, I seem to remember someone quite some time ago mentioned that the number on my board, was a part number for the generic board maker.
This is my Fujinon SWD f/5.6 65mm lens in a recessed board, which is around 10mm deep, possibly 11mm deep, but it is in that depth vicinity. Things are tight, as you can see, this is a 0 shutter hole for reference.
I use my pen or pencil to move the aperture, otherwise I would be stuffed.
View attachment 330806
View attachment 330807
Check the pictures of the Fujinon lens (above), and you'll see it is offset -- so that there is room to access the preview lever, PC contact, etc. If the recess is too deep, you can't reach these -- and maintain your sanity.
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