Ready to try slower B@W films

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Theo Sulphate

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What is the nature of Pan F that the latent image does not last long? Why?
 

MattKing

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What is the nature of Pan F that the latent image does not last long? Why?
I don't know the specific mechanism. All films suffer from some latent image degradation over time, it is just that for most films it hardly ever matters, whereas for Pan F even the manufacturer warns about it in the datasheet.
I have to assume that if the latent image degradation could be improved without significant disadvantage, Harman/Ilford would have long ago done so.
 

kreeger

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OP

Jeeeesus, I wonder how we got by back in the day? We had no one to breast feed us the scoop. We tried different films at the drop of a hat. No big deal. We either liked what we got or not with the film stock / developer.
 

goodimage

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Try them both & rate them at an EI of 50 (FP4+) & 25 (Pan-F) & follow the Ilford times for those ratings & you should get some nice, easy to print negatives.
Hi Lachlan. I am testing fp4 now and welcome some of your insight on this film. I tried it at 125 ASA and it seemed very thin in the negative. Will using an EI off 50 help me out? A Noob I am.
 

Lachlan Young

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Hi Lachlan. I am testing fp4 now and welcome some of your insight on this film. I tried it at 125 ASA and it seemed very thin in the negative. Will using an EI off 50 help me out? A Noob I am.

It's a pretty straightforward film in my experience - if your meter isn't way off. What camera are you using? Main thing is not to severely underexpose it.
 

Sirius Glass

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Hi Lachlan. I am testing fp4 now and welcome some of your insight on this film. I tried it at 125 ASA and it seemed very thin in the negative. Will using an EI off 50 help me out? A Noob I am.

You need to increase the development time, the ISO is 125.
 

goodimage

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It's a pretty straightforward film in my experience - if your meter isn't way off. What camera are you using? Main thing is not to severely underexpose it.
I am testing Ilford FP4+ film on Ilford MGIV paper to arrive at my EI for that combination.
I am using a Bronica ETR with a 75mm lens. I believe my meter, a Soligor Digital spot meter, is not way off. Part of my procedure to get an EI for my film/paper combination is the calibration of the spot meter to an adjusted setting of the ASA on it to give me the EI in the completion of the procedure. The 18% Gray Card is the standard in this procedure. So far, I have not been able to match the Card with my Zone V gray card pictures. I began with using 125 ASA setting on meter. That may not be the best setting for me to start out at with this procedure. That is my question to you and Sirius glass. What ASA?
 

Sirius Glass

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I am testing Ilford FP4+ film on Ilford MGIV paper to arrive at my EI for that combination.
I am using a Bronica ETR with a 75mm lens. I believe my meter, a Soligor Digital spot meter, is not way off. Part of my procedure to get an EI for my film/paper combination is the calibration of the spot meter to an adjusted setting of the ASA on it to give me the EI in the completion of the procedure. The 18% Gray Card is the standard in this procedure. So far, I have not been able to match the Card with my Zone V gray card pictures. I began with using 125 ASA setting on meter. That may not be the best setting for me to start out at with this procedure. That is my question to you and Sirius glass. What ASA?

ASA is the old term for ISO. I got my spot meter calibrated by George Milton at Quality Light Metric, 7095 Hollywood Blvd,Ste 550, Hollywood, CA 90028 323 467 2265 He is heavily used by the Hollywood Movie Studios for years.
 
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