RA-4 Not getting the results I want..

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lantau

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@koraks, what Mike wrote above referred to the Gallon size developer (=tank solution) and the 10L replenisher, which requires starter.

Unfortunately I can't help, because I use RA/RT replenisher, which works with, and without starter. I tried.

I make fresh tank solution with starter because I replenish. This way the activity stays constant, rather having a asymptotic reduction toward normal activity as more and more paper goes through.

I'm keen to learn if RT is that different.
 
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Mike Chalmers

Mike Chalmers

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Okay folks, bit of a positive update:

I tried increasing the concentration of the blix. I mixed the remaining parts A and B I had to the correct ratio and then added this to the litre of blix I'd mixed up properly (with water).

Everything else remained unchaged (except putting black material over the small light leak - though I'm quite confident this wasn't the issue).

Anyway, with new stronger blix, the blacks are darker and contrast is improved. I'll try to get a couple of examples scanned and uploaded tomorrow when dry.

They're not quite as dark as I'd like them, but I think my issue is with the blix. See attached image for the bottom of the bottle, which I had mixed a bit with a stirrer.
20191126_162118448_iOS.jpg
 

Photo Engineer

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Ahh, the fix part of the blix is bad. The hypo has formed silver and left your print possibly underfixed.

As for underdevelopment, it looks like an underdeveloped negative both from the scan and the print scan.

There may be more than one problem here.

PE
 

pentaxuser

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Mike the problem with scans is that it is never like looking at a print in the flesh so what may from the look be a similar problem raised on a site called FADU resulted in the OP there telling us that it was due to contaminated developer and running the Jobo at the higher speed I am sceptical of the second reason having anything to do with his problem and unfortunately having declared his problem solved he hasn't shown us his OK prints nor how he believes his developer got contaminated but you may want to have a look at his almost foggy flat looking picture as it bears some resemblance to your early pictures

It may or may not help but may be worth a look

pentaxuser
 

brbo

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Admittedly, I've only done my first print a few days ago, but since there is a discussion about Kodak Ektacolor RA developer (RT) needing/not needing a starter... I used it without a starter (single shot in Jobo) and my prints turned out really nice. No problem with DMax.

On Fuji Crystal Archive:


(film: Portra 160)

On 7 years expired Kodak Endura Premium:


(film: Vision3 500T)
 

koraks

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I based my comment about the need for a starter on Kodak tech pub J39 which indicates that the RT version requires a starter, but the regular RA version doesn't. Contributing to my remark is my experience with Fuji developer which requires either a starter or seasoning; the latter giving good results after a significant amount of exposed paper has been run through the developer.
If your experience with Kodak chemistry proves otherwise, I can of course only accept that (and gladly will). In case of problems, I would still recommend following the manufacturer's documentation.
 
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