I think the following quotation refers to the reason you're looking for:
but the link in that quotation is now dead.
And I am still trying to remember that reason regarding citric acid. I use 1% or 2% acetic acid.
PE
The good thing about using a stop bath is that you don't have to remove the last drop of color developer before you pour in stop bath, the stop bath kills developer action anyway. This alone should improve process repeatability and homogeneity across the frame.
A while back PE mentioned that Citric Acid does some bad things to color processes, that's why he recommended an Acetic Acid stop bath. Sadly he couldn't tell us any details, but this Kodak publication claims that Citric Acid plus Rapid Fixer removes the orange mask (i.e. hurts dyes), something you want to avoid at all costs in normal color processing.
I have the Kodak 1-63 version and can testify BMbikerider's advice. Avoid sniffing it straight from the concentrate i.e. lowering your nose over the opened bottle and breathing. One sniff may not and probably does not harm the lungs if you have no breathing problems but it does "catch your breath " unpleasantly. At its strength it is a long way from strong vinegar.
pentaxuser
I'll bet at even normal strength of 1:63 it is a real beauty at removing tough limescale as well which we get in this part of the countryAnother use I have made it do is to clean up the developing spirals when they get stained. It will also remove stains from plastic measures and the insides of developing tanks. It really does work
RA-4 is very easy to process. I've used the Unicolor, Beseler, and Jobo tubes. Temperature control is not critical as long as you develop the print to completion. I have the luxury of a big darkroom sink, the chemicals can stain surfaces. I helped a friend get started, I had exposure and filtration worked out on my enlarger. I exposed a piece of paper, my friend put it in a Beseler 8x10 print drum.I was wondering the specifics when developing color prints and had a few questions. If i develop the paper in a tank do I agitate it like you do when developing film or just pour in the chemicals and let them do their work? Also do you guys recommend a stop bath and if you do what do you use? Would my ilfostop work as a stop bath or is that exclusively for black and white? Any help would be appreciated thanks.
125px.com apparently kept an archive of Kodak's technical documents, including the one I referenced back then.I think the following quotation refers to the reason you're looking for:
but the link in that quotation is now dead.A while back PE mentioned that Citric Acid does some bad things to color processes, that's why he recommended an Acetic Acid stop bath. Sadly he couldn't tell us any details, but this Kodak publication claims that Citric Acid plus Rapid Fixer removes the orange mask (i.e. hurts dyes), something you want to avoid at all costs in normal color processing.
Now he tells me! I used it in concentrate form to rid my face of a few blemishes and in the hope that it might make me look more like George Clooney but it was a disaster. I ended up looking like Fred Clooney who runs our local fish and chip shop and who permanently smells of vinegar.The Kodak Indicator Stop bath concentrate is strong enough to damage some laminate counter materials.
Very good advice. All the silly tubes just slow you down. The stop is used in equipment that tends to stainFor those of you not bothered by the smell of the chemicals, RA-4 is so much easier when done in trays at room temperature. When I found out it could be done this way I said goodbye to the hassle of drums forever. I don't need a pre-wet or stop bath, requiring only two trays, and making it even easier. Enjoyment increased, and productivity is so much better as well.
It helps to use trays with high walls. I use plastic storage containers that are much less prone to chemistry sloshing over the edges of the tray as they are quite deep.The biggest issue I have with tray development is that you have open dishes with toxic and corrosive chemistry in pitch darkness. Some people maybe particularly gifted and can handle this reliably for years, but I'm afraid I am not one of them. Rotary drums it is for me ....
Wow, I've just bookmarked 125px website. I'm going to print out some of these documents. This is amazing bonefide technical data. Thanks for leading me to this treasure.125px.com apparently kept an archive of Kodak's technical documents, including the one I referenced back then.
Never been a problem for me. The use of small glow-in-the-dark tape placement, experience, and simply being careful has made working in the dark something I don't give a second thought to. I have never needed a safelight but they are successfully used by some.
A couple of Heath/Mitchell Color Canoes would probably be the best solution for those who want to tray develop:
View attachment 225392
I prefer having at least 4 tubes that I can cycle through and allow to air dry between uses.
Jackpot! Should go to a museum. P-122 had been replaced by CP-5 when I got involved. I did get to use Ektacolor Professional paper, fiber base. I still have a few prints that, last I looked, were in nice shape. I was a babe in the woods. No one to help me, 13-14 years old. I remember that Kodacolor negatives were easier for me to print than Ektacolor-S. I don't think my Acetate filters were big enough to fit my filter drawer, so I was all over the map. The Kodacolor-X negatives printed so easy.The inventor brought it to Kodak in hopes of selling the idea to EK. That was before my time there, so it was intended to be for the P122 or Ektaprint C process. The KRL workers found it clumsy and difficult to use and did not go for it. During a cleanup in the late '60s, one with a Kodak label was about to go in the dumpster, and I asked for it and was given it and I have had it ever since. I assume it is a one of a kind and some sort of collectors item.
It is under the sink in my DR IIRC.
PE
Anyone using it should certainly test for fogging. I use tiny snippets of it which I can barely see with no visible fogging.Believe it or not, but we have had glow tape fog color paper.
PE
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