I see that alot of photographers in the US and GB are using this developer and as I have no experience with it was wondering if some of you can shed some light. I presume that it some sort of Pyro staining developer. I have used ABC Pyro once or twice but find it a bit of a pain. I am currently using mostly FP4+ and Tri-X in all formats. Thanks Guys.
Pyrocat is Sandy King's non-proprietary staining and tanning developer, based on Pyrocatechol (aka Catechcol). Pyrocat works very well with both Tri-X and FP4. As JBrunner suggested (previous post) run an APUG search on Pyrocat.
Pyrocat is probably the best, most usable pyrocatechin (aka catechol) developer out there.
PMK is probably the best, most usable pyrogallol (aka pyro aka pyrogallic acid) developer out there.
If you are interested in staining developers, these are your two (although some may have votes for ABC or Wimberly or other pyrogallol or pyrocatechin formulas). If you don't know if you have such an interest, APUG is a pretty delicious place to find out if you do. The number of posts about this subject is pretty staggering.
Claire, are you suggesting Pyrocat HD is an equal replacement for Rodinal? I realize the fine benefits of P-HD but aren't the two quite different, to the point that a properly 'equipped' darkroom would contain both?
Claire, are you suggesting Pyrocat HD is an equal replacement for Rodinal? I realize the fine benefits of P-HD but aren't the two quite different, to the point that a properly 'equipped' darkroom would contain both?
Don't hold your breath too long Robert. Its probably just a matter of time before someone dips a roll of Velvia in Pyrocat and begins the next cross-processing craze. :rolleyes:
IMO, Pyrocat-HD is one of the most versatile developers to come along in a long time. It seems to be capable of doing most anything in the B&W/Alt Process field. PMK and its derivatives are good for enlarging. ABC, as you say, is a bit of a pain but is excellent for anything that uses contact printing. Pyrocat is capable of doing all the above.
One of the nice things about Pyrocat-HD is that it is very well behaved. It produces consistent results with no fuss. The stain is not as intense as some pyro developers, but it works the same way every time. Your film speed will be less than for D-76, but you will still get fine grain and good workability plus the advantages of a staining developer.
And lets not forget how economical Pyrocat HD is when mixed from scratch. I am still using a bottle of the A solution I mixed over 2 years ago. It is also not too fussy about the water the working solution is mixed in.
If you use several different papers, both fixed and variable grade, depending on the image tone you want, stay away from staining devlopers. The tonalities from the same negative printed on graded and VC papers are so different as to make it practically impossible to switch papers.
For some alt. processes, excellent results can be achieved from a negative that also gives excellent results on some traditional silver/gelatin papers.
It's a wonderful developer when you need more UV density than a non-staining developer can give. But it is not a silver bullet!
My darkroom contains both Rodinal, and Pyrocat. I make the choice based on what, and how I intend to print. I just developed some 8x10 J&C 100 in Rodinal, and the negs are very nice, by any standard.
Rodinal is a very good developer, and very different from Pyrocat, also an outstanding developer.
Can't buy Pyrocat in OZ so will get some from the US and give it a go. Does anyone have the mix it yourself formula? Might be the easiest way to go as I mix most of my own brews anyway. Thanks again for all the help!
Can't buy Pyrocat in OZ so will get some from the US and give it a go. Does anyone have the mix it yourself formula? Might be the easiest way to go as I mix most of my own brews anyway. Thanks again for all the help!
Drop into Vanbar and order the chemistry. I don't know how much dry chemistry they carry in their Sydney store as their resident alchemist seems to be in Melbourne (in Munster Terrace, I kid you not) but they can get it all for you. I did two sheets of 8x10 FP4 in Pyrocat in trays the other night and was happy with the results (apart from a vital tree in the foreground being out of focus...). I think mixing your own will be far cheaper than ordering pre-mix from the US.
I think Pyrocat HD is an extremely versatile developer, which I've used for anything from contact printing sheet film to graded paper, and enlarged from 35mm negs to variable contrast paper. Attached is an actual size scan (excerpt) from a 12x16" print from 35mm FP4+.
I concur that no developer is a silver bullet, many other things have to coincide to get what you want, but if you're looking for a developer that produces amazingly sharp negatives, and holds the grain back in the stain somewhat, AND is able to build expand and contract well - you have a very fine product in PyrocatHD. It's cheap too.
The question you need to ask yourself is, "Do I need to switch to a different developer?" Ask any professional photographer and you will be warned of the need to standardize on a film - developer combination and truly learn it. Then change to another combination only if you become dissatisfied and then only after careful evaluation. To do otherwise will result in constantly changing your "tools"and not getting anything accomplished. There is no magical combination despite what you may hear.
I don't think pyrocat is for everything or every film (haven't had much luck with fomapan 400 which I like in HC110), but it is a very versatile and economic developer which I have come to standardize on for all of my sheet film development (numberous film types from 3"x4" - 8"x10").
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