Pyrocat Hd

[Napoleon]

I know this may have been asked before, but I am looking at other developers with the demise of kodak. So I found a 2 part liquid mix of Pyrocat HD from Bostick and Sullivan. Has anyone used this before? And what dilution did you use? I have seen mixing instructions for the powder, but not the liquid. I would like a 1000ml mix if possible.

 

[chriscrawfordphoto]

Kodak developers are still being made and sold. Just bought another bottle of Tmax Developer today!

 

[StoneNYC]

Napoleon,

I think you are slightly misinformed. There's no Demise of kodak... It's still around... There are many developers that are great and I know you had another thread on Tmax so not sure why you would change from that?

 

[JLP]

There are hundreds of post about Pyrocat developer on this forum, do a search and you will find all the information that you need to get started.

As Stone said, Kodak have not left us yet and have by the way not made any developers for a long time. Other companies have been making developers for Kodak the last several years. Champion for the longest time but it looks like German Tetenal have taken over from Champion.

 

[StoneNYC]

There are hundreds of post about Pyrocat developer on this forum, do a search and you will find all the information that you need to get started.

As Stone said, Kodak have not left us yet and have by the way not made any developers for a long time. Other companies have been making developers for Kodak the last several years. Champion for the longest time but it looks like German Tetenal have taken over from Champion.

To clarify, this is confusing for those not familiar with how "it all works" basically they (Kodak) contract someone else to mix their formulas, so it's still the Kodak designed developer, just mixed by someone else.

 

[tony lockerbie]

Yep, parts of Kodak still live, and I have no trouble getting their developers here in Australia. That said, the Pyrocat is an excellent and economical developer. If your packs are the same as the ones that I get, the total stock solution is 500ml.
The part B, potassium carbonate, is ready mixed, and the part A chemicals are together in dry form...just add water! I use distilled water at about 50 deg. C and dissolve the part A chems then put back in the bottle that it came in.
The stock solution is then diluted 1:1:100....or that's how I do it. Mostly I take 10ml part A, 10ml part B, and add to 1 liter of water and Bob's your Aunty.
Good luck with it, and you will find most of the developing times in the Massive Developing Chart.

 

[Napoleon]

Because I am having loads of trouble finding anything but D-76. Also I want to try new stuff.

 

[Napoleon]

Also sorry about all the confusion over kodak.

 

[ann]

I have used this developer for some time. altho, i have used the liquid version.
Also, used it with 35mm up to 4x5 (which when i started , folks scratched their heads). ALso, use semi-stand and tested for times.
off the top of my head I don't remember the amounts, but you should be able to find that here on another thread.

 

[Ian Grant]

Like Ann I use Pyrocat HD for all formats 35mm to LF and I find it's excellent for small formats.

Ian

 

[dpurdy]

I have used it a lot for all formats. I do find however that it has a bit more edge affect than I would like on roll film. I generally agitate 10 seconds every minute at about 70º F. For that reason I don't use it when processing other people's roll film. I use Xtol instead. Especially when I have a dark subject in front of a light grey background I get a pronounced plus density edge around the dark subject. Looks a bit like it is an over sharpened jpeg. Works sometimes but not something I always like.
Dennis

 

[StoneNYC]

Napoleon, where are you looking? There is so much out there about D-76 easily found...

Try here...

http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart-mobile.php

 

[Napoleon]

I have used this developer for some time. altho, i have used the liquid version.
Also, used it with 35mm up to 4x5 (which when i started , folks scratched their heads). ALso, use semi-stand and tested for times.
off the top of my head I don't remember the amounts, but you should be able to find that here on another thread.

Ann,

I would like to make sure I am correct before a purchase some. The two part liquid is 10ml of Part A in 500 ml of distilled water and 10 ml of Part B mixed in 500 ml of distilled water then mixed together for 100 ml total of working solution?

 

[Ian Grant]

Ann,

I would like to make sure I am correct before a purchase some. The two part liquid is 10ml of Part A in 500 ml of distilled water and 10 ml of Part B mixed in 500 ml of distilled water then mixed together for 100 ml total of working solution?

Your maths is wrong the total water is 1 litre (1000ml). You can just add part A to most of the water (approx 2/3rds) and then add Part B and top up.

I make mine up 1+1 to 100 so 10ml Part A in about 650-700ml water then after stirring add 10ml Part B finally adding the rest of the water to 1 litre which gives me flexibility to adjust the final temperature before processing.

Ian

 

[Napoleon]

Thank You Ian, math is not my strong suit.

 

[john_s]

Even easier: there's not much difference between 980mL and 1000mL. I use a pipette with rubber bulb, and put 10mL of part A into the litre of water, then using the same pipette without rinsing, add 10mL of part B to it. Contaminating Part A with Part B would not be good, of course, but a trace of part A in the part B does no harm.

 

[Eric Rose]

I use PyroCat-HD for 99% of my film developer needs. Please use the search function prior to asking questions. You will find there is a LOT of very useful information about PyroCat-HD on APUG. If you want to get your information from the horses mouth so to speak visit http://sandykingphotography.com Sandy is the inventor of PyroCat.

 

[L Gebhardt]

Even easier: there's not much difference between 980mL and 1000mL. I use a pipette with rubber bulb, and put 10mL of part A into the litre of water, then using the same pipette without rinsing, add 10mL of part B to it. Contaminating Part A with Part B would not be good, of course, but a trace of part A in the part B does no harm.

I use it exactly as John does, but sometimes vary the dilution to 2+2+100, so 1000ml water + 20ml of A and 20ml of B. Total volume will be 1040ml in this case.