Pyrocat development times - Kentmere 400

[Moose22]

So, I got me some Pyrocat HD and I'm itching to try it out.

I have a backlog of film to develop, but some of it is Kentmere 400 and there's no time on the Massive Dev Chart for that and Pyrocat.

So I started thinking. How do I know what times to start at for unknown film like this?

While I'm asking, what resources are there other than Massive Dev Chart for starting times? I tend to have my Xtol times for tri-x and HP5 at 800 and 1600 from experimenting, but I started with times I got off of internet web sites. Most other film I haven't altered from what I started with off of massive dev chart. So not having the starting time is new territory for me.

 

[Anon Ymous]

Whenever I have no idea what development time to use, I just do a clip test in a graduate and measure the time it needs to get a good black. It's not precise, but should get you in the ballpark.

 

[LimeyKeith]

A good start is to use a time for a comparable film. As Kentmere 400 is made by Ilford I would suggest using the time for HP5+ as a start.

 

[juan]

Pyrocat HD Development Times

The following Pyrocat HD development times based on on a suggested starting time. Use these Pyrocat HD developing times as a guideline.

www.pyrocathd.5x4.co.uk

I’ve found the 400 speed development times to be close to the TMAX time on all the fipms I’ve tried, including the Kentmere.

 

[Rick A]

Shoot a sacrificial roll of film, cut it into several lengths and develop each length separately at different times. Start with 10 mins @20c(or whatever temp you normally use) and add one minute for each successive strip. Pick the one closest to your expectations. Evaluate and fine tune . My guess you may be around 13-14 minutes @20c, you can obviously shorten the time by raising the temp.

 

[GregY]

That's my starting approach w unknown films.... 9 min for iso 100 films &14 min for 400 iso w Pyrocat

 

[Sirius Glass]

Develop in Solution A for 5-7 minutes [it soaks up the solution] and then in Solution B for 5 to 7 minutes [developing to completion or deletion], wash and fix in TF4 or TF5.

 

[MattKing]

For some reason, people seem to have a desire to title threads that contain good questions with the words "dumb question" . Why is that?
And people also seem to want to ask questions about a particular film, but don't put the film in the thread title. Why is that?
Thread title tweaked - in the hope you will get more responses.
I'm somewhat hesitant to mention this, but there seems to be consensus that Kentmere 400 is also available under a number of re-brands. There may be people who have used one of the rebrands with Pyrocat who can help you. I hope the thread title change helps you with this.

 

[Alex Benjamin]

have a backlog of film to develop, but some of it is Kentmere 400 and there's no time on the Massive Dev Chart for that and Pyrocat.

Pyrocat HD data sheet from Photographers Formulary has this intro : "Pyrocat-HD is a semi-compensating, high-definition developer, formulated by Sandy King as an alternative to PMK. The advantages over PMK that Mr. King cites for his formula include an approximately 1/3-stop greater effective film speed, 10-15% shorter development times, more consistent staining action, lower toxicity, and no streaking or mottling with reduced agitation."

Massive Dev Chart has Kentmere 400 @ 400 in the usual 1+2+100 PMK at 13 minutes (20˚), which would give you around 11-ish minutes in 1+1+100 Pyrocat.

See also post #3 in this old thread.

 

[Patrick Robert James]

The best way to get a developing time if you can't find one for a non standard film or developer is to extrapolate it from a known film/developer combo. Usually Tri-X/D76 is a good one to use since people have developed TriX in just about everything else. Then just look up what time is recommended for Pyrocat and TriX. If you know Kentmere's time in D76 then you have your reasonable starting time after making the adjustment if there is one.

Frankly though with modern thin emulsion films it is almost impossible to overdevelop film in a staining/tanning developer. On top of that, if you are only scanning the film then it really is practically impossible to screw it up.

 

[Moose22]

For some reason, people seem to have a desire to title threads that contain good questions with the words "dumb question" . Why is that?

I honestly assumed people who have been doing this longer -- it's has been a year for me and I've only used xtol -- know these tricks.

But I got some great responses. Both experimental AND extrapolating from data. So dumb or good, I really appreciate the help.

Did the Kentmere at 1600 in xtol since I realized it has one or two shots that were precious and irreplaceable. But I have more Kentmere here, shot at 400 and 800, and others. So I'll definitely be using this advice over the next few days.