Pushing HP5+ to 3200

[Agulliver]

Here are some of the images I took pushing HP5+ to 1600 in bright sunlight and indoors but during daylight hours.

 

[pentaxuser]

Here are some of the images I took pushing HP5+ to 1600 in bright sunlight and indoors but during daylight hours.

View attachment 225881 View attachment 225882 View attachment 225883

Thanks for the pics. Did you mean to say "oudoors" rather than "indoors" in your statement above? If it was outdoors however the light looks quite even and more like overcast conditions?

I suppose the argument is that while pushing HP5+ in bright sunlight to say 1600 might give shadows without detail the saving grace of bright sunlight is that high film speed is not really required. At sunny f16 even racing cars or motorbikes can be shot at 1/800th at f11 at 400

If there was a requirement to shoot on the same roll at both 400 and 800 some films TMax being one suggest the same time so you have total versatility but with HP5+ there is a jump but with Microphen it is only 1.5 mins. I wonder what the best strategy is: Shoot all at 800, develop for 800 and simply lower the contrast when printing or find some compromise time between 6.5 and 8 mins such as 7.25 mins

Anyone any ideas on this, especially those who have used to good effect a compromise figure between 6.6 and 8 mins?

Thanks

pentaxuser

 

[removed account4]

Here are some of the images I took pushing HP5+ to 1600 in bright sunlight and indoors but during daylight hours.

View attachment 225881 View attachment 225882 View attachment 225883

LOL cut that out ! You aren't allowed to push film in daylight when you have enough light to shoot it box speed!
But where did you place "zone 15" ?

 

[K-G]

The ILFORD times for Delta 3200 / XTOL are significantly too short in my experience. I've had good results with ID-68 but haven't yet put the time into ironing out any strong recommendations.

I have noticed by own experience, and also heard from others, that Delta 3200 is best developed for the times required for the next higher ISO setting. For example, if you expose for 1600 ISO, develop for 3200 ISO and if you expose for 3200 ISO, develop for 6400 ISO. That has worked for me with both DD-X developer and Xtol .

Karl-Gustaf

 

[Sirius Glass]

I have noticed by own experience, and also heard from others, that Delta 3200 is best developed for the times required for the next higher ISO setting. For example, if you expose for 1600 ISO, develop for 3200 ISO and if you expose for 3200 ISO, develop for 6400 ISO. That has worked for me with both DD-X developer and Xtol .

Karl-Gustaf

Thank you for the guidance. Now I finally know where to start.

 

[jim appleyard]

I have noticed by own experience, and also heard from others, that Delta 3200 is best developed for the times required for the next higher ISO setting. For example, if you expose for 1600 ISO, develop for 3200 ISO and if you expose for 3200 ISO, develop for 6400 ISO. That has worked for me with both DD-X developer and Xtol .

Karl-Gustaf

Yes, that's been my experience.

 

[warden]

I have noticed by own experience, and also heard from others, that Delta 3200 is best developed for the times required for the next higher ISO setting. For example, if you expose for 1600 ISO, develop for 3200 ISO and if you expose for 3200 ISO, develop for 6400 ISO. That has worked for me with both DD-X developer and Xtol .

Karl-Gustaf

That has been my experience as well.

 

[jim appleyard]

Reading this thread (with some head shaking) I've noticed that nobody mentioned Acufine, unless I missed it. I've pushed Tri-X to 6400 (I think) WITH ACUFINE and got soot & whitewash results, but I did get the shots. Somewhere I remember an Acufine two bath that was a home-brew. I'll look in my notes to see if I have anything on that.

 

[jim appleyard]

I DID NOT find a formula for divided "Acufine", but I did find one for a home-brew version of straight "Acufine". (bad memory, I guess). I suppose if you wanted, you could put the dev agents and sulfite in bath A, and the alkali in B. I'll let you folks play around with it. If you wanted to split, you might want to make two 1/2 quart baths.
This is from Paul Farber in Peterson's Photographic Oct. 1984.

H2O 2.5 cups
Phenidone 0.5 tsp
Sulfite 2 tblspns + 1 tsp
Hydroquinone 1.5 tsp
Borax 0.5 tsp
Sodium Carb (does not specify water content) 3/8 tsp.
Pot Bro. 1/8 tsp
H2O to 1 QUART.


I also found some scribbling I did for shooting Tri-X at EI 5,000!

Dilute Dektol stock 1+9.
Add 1ml HC-110 syrup
1g ascorbic acid
0.5 tsp sod. carb

My notes aren't great on this. Anyone want to try it.?

 

[Sirius Glass]

Reading this thread (with some head shaking) I've noticed that nobody mentioned Acufine, unless I missed it. I've pushed Tri-X to 6400 (I think) WITH ACUFINE and got soot & whitewash results, but I did get the shots. Somewhere I remember an Acufine two bath that was a home-brew. I'll look in my notes to see if I have anything on that.

No, either replenished XTOL or Pyrocat HD in Glycol.

 

[jim appleyard]

No, either replenished XTOL or Pyrocat HD in Glycol.

These and only these devs?

 

[Sirius Glass]

No, either replenished XTOL or Pyrocat HD in Glycol.

These and only these devs?

Those are the only two I use after trying a number of other developers. I selected developers with find grain, very smooth tonality and consistency.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

How much is the development time expanded compared to box speed to get ISO 3200 out of HP5+?

>20 min.

 

[Agulliver]

Thanks for the pics. Did you mean to say "oudoors" rather than "indoors" in your statement above? If it was outdoors however the light looks quite even and more like overcast conditions?

I suppose the argument is that while pushing HP5+ in bright sunlight to say 1600 might give shadows without detail the saving grace of bright sunlight is that high film speed is not really required. At sunny f16 even racing cars or motorbikes can be shot at 1/800th at f11 at 400


pentaxuser

Two photos were taken outdoors, one indoors in a coffee shop. My recollection is that it was a sunny day. I had one roll of film on which I was later going to shoot at night, hence shooting at 1600. Earlier in the day, on the way to my destination, I saw a couple of things i felt like photographing.

 

[pentaxuser]

Thanks. It was just that in the two outside photos the light looks "flatish" as you get on overcast days. it may have been that both were in open-shade and on bright days open shade can appear to show overcast conditions.

pentaxuser

 

[Toasty]

I've pushed HP5 to EI 3200 using HC-110 semi stand and I thought it worked really well. Dilution H, agitate for the first 30 seconds then one inversion every 7 minutes, total 38 mins development time.

 

[Agulliver]

Here are three more, shot on an Agfa Super SIlette rather than an SLR (the previous were a Praktica BX20S). HP5+ exposed at 1600 rather than 3200...definitely a sunny day. I was on my way to Wales and knew that I'd be photographing people in a dim pub later in the evening...

 

[pentaxuser]

Agulliver, good shots at 1600. Always difficult to judge what a print will be like from a scan but I imagine they'd be fine. Plenty of open shadows in the bike shot so no featureless shadows which can be the problem when pushing. Judging by the bike I take it this was a sunny day in Wales but not in 2019 more like 1959 That's what bikes should look like. Not the modern day plumber's nightmare with exhausts practically under your backside.

My developer of choice is Xtol but I see no reason why this shouldn't give equally good results

pentaxuser