Provia 100 and Velvia 100 gurus. Bestow upon me your knowledge.

[loccdor]

My experience with setting aside a bunch of exposed film for 10 years at room temperature before developing it is that you'll get higher quality results from 10 year ago exposed film than from 10 year expired film that you just shot. The exception is Pan F.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

I send all my slide film to a lab in one go at the end of my shooting season in October. I start shooting in April so some of the film would sit for 7 months. I store it all in a fridge, never had an issue.

How to you wrap and store it?

 

[perkeleellinen]

How to you wrap and store it?

35mm film, in the fridge in tubs.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

35mm film, in the fridge in tubs.

I assume you seal it with a lid Do you use dessicants?

 

[perkeleellinen]

I assume you seal it with a lid Do you use dessicants?

Yes, lids on the tubs, never used dessicants - no room in the tubs anyway. I ensure the films are in tubs for a while before they go into the fridge, maybe a day or so...

 

[albireo]

This lot is just in, together with 7 brown 1L bottles. Now I only need a larger container for my sous-vide bath and I'm all set.

I also squirreled away a few rolls of Provia 100F over the past few months, and I will probably be following @Sanug 's advice to only reuse the kit once.

I have a Paterson medium sized tank that fits 3x35mm reels so that is 2 sessions with the Bellini chemistry.

I might even try it 3 times for a total of 9 rolls, leaving the last 3 rolls for less valuable or more experimental testing.

 

[ChrisGalway]

This lot is just in, together with 7 brown 1L bottles. Now I only need a larger container for my sous-vide bath and I'm all set.

I also squirreled away a few rolls of Provia 100F over the past few months, and I will probably be following @Sanug 's advice to only reuse the kit once.

I have a Paterson medium sized tank that fits 3x35mm reels so that is 2 sessions with the Bellini chemistry.

I might even try it 3 times for a total of 9 rolls, leaving the last 3 rolls for less valuable or more experimental testing.

Happy Days! I'm sure you'll be OK to use the solutions twice (based on my experience) with no noticeable degradation, provided the two runs are within a few days of each other. And I would go for the third run as you describe, with less-important films.

In my experience with the Paterson tank (i.e. not a rotary Jobo machine), you need to increase the first development time for Fuji films, by at least 1 minute (i.e. at least 7min15sec). But this might be just a result of my exposure/temperature/agitation regime.

Please give us feedback ... and good luck!

 

[albireo]

Happy Days! I'm sure you'll be OK to use the solutions twice (based on my experience) with no noticeable degradation, provided the two runs are within a few days of each other. And I would go for the third run as you describe, with less-important films.

In my experience with the Paterson tank (i.e. not a rotary Jobo machine), you need to increase the first development time for Fuji films, by at least 1 minute (i.e. at least 7min15sec). But this might be just a result of my exposure/temperature/agitation regime.

Please give us feedback ... and good luck!

Ah yes I meant to ask you that. I've read Fuji film needs longer development thank Kodak? What is your temperature regime?

 

[ChrisGalway]

I keep the water bath around 40.0C, and the temperature of the 1st Dev is usually around 38.5-38.9 in the bottle before I pour it into the Paterson tank. I used to dry warm the tank as per the Bellini instructions (use a heavy weight to keep the tank from floating!) but now I use a wet method, i.e. warm water. The reason for starting a bit high in temperature is that I use inversion agitation, around 12 inversions each minute, and the inversions take around 20-25 sec of each minute ... so the tank is out of the water bath for about 40% of the time, and the room is only 20C typically. Because the lid is firmly on the Paterson tank, I've never measured the actual temperature of the 1st Dev.

Hope this is clear. I confess I only do one film at a time (120 size) ... I would hate to get the process wrong for there films at once! But I should have more confidence!

BTW, I often "push" development by up to 1 stop (+2 mins 1st Dev time) when I know I have underexposed the film, and this works well.

 

[albireo]

I keep the water bath around 40.0C, and the temperature of the 1st Dev is usually around 38.5-38.9 in the bottle before I pour it into the Paterson tank. I used to dry warm the tank as per the Bellini instructions (use a heavy weight to keep the tank from floating!) but now I use a wet method, i.e. warm water. The reason for starting a bit high in temperature is that I use inversion agitation, around 12 inversions each minute, and the inversions take around 20-25 sec of each minute ... so the tank is out of the water bath for about 40% of the time, and the room is only 20C typically. Because the lid is firmly on the Paterson tank, I've never measured the actual temperature of the 1st Dev.

Yes thanks, all noted. I have had similar experiences with C41 developer temperature control - separate thread.

 

[Samu]

Ah yes I meant to ask you that. I've read Fuji film needs longer development thank Kodak? What is your temperature regime?

This opinion that Fuji films need longer times can be found in some old Kodak bulletins. Fuji has never claimed that was the case. That said, the FD time is not meant to be strictly 6 minutes, but it is given as a reference, with a note that it should be tested axxording th the individual conditions and results in any particular lab. In hand developing, you would probably need slightly longer FD times compared to systems with constant agitation. I personally use 6:30 for first use of developer, and 7:15 for the second use with using the developers twice for the capacity of 8 rolls per liter if developing by hand.