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Processing Orca 110 with Ilfotec DD-x

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wilwahabri

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I have tried a number of locations to try and find the developing time for Orca 110 in DD-x. Has anyone any experience if this combination?

I only want to do this as it is difficult to get process chemicals here in Singapore and DD-x is the developer that is available
 

pentaxuser

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You probably have found this already but the few developers I have found times for are 7 mins. Rodinal 1+50 is 9 mins

I'd have thought but don't know that somewhere around the same times apply to DDX. Find other films and check those times in D76 or ID11 and compare with DDX. This will give a good idea how big a range of films have dev times close in both say ID11 and DDX.

It is then a question of extrapolating.

If you have a lot of this stuff to develop you can either risk say 7-8 mins in DDX and then alter accordingly or cut the film into two or three and risk the loss of three negs and develop one for 7-8 mins then alter for the other half or two thirds of the film.

The loss of three negs will get you very close to where you need to be

Best of luck

pentaxuser
 

StoneNYC

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Try the times for HC-110. Experiment from there if not satisfied. It's a very similar developer to DDX.

HC-110 (B) is usually 2-4 minutes LESS than DD-X

So using HC-110 times isn't what I would advise... But maybe 3 minutes longer than HC-110(B) times. Which is probably 9 minutes for a 100 speed film.
 

Murray Kelly

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HC-110 (B) is usually 2-4 minutes LESS than DD-X

So using HC-110 times isn't what I would advise... But maybe 3 minutes longer than HC-110(B) times. Which is probably 9 minutes for a 100 speed film.

Well, I did say to start there. I was going to add that more dilute would probably give less grain and goodness knows, 110 needs that! He will have to work out the times that suit in water temps he will work with in Singapore.

Hey! You have a new avatar?

Cheers
 

StoneNYC

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Well, I did say to start there. I was going to add that more dilute would probably give less grain and goodness knows, 110 needs that! He will have to work out the times that suit in water temps he will work with in Singapore.

Hey! You have a new avatar?

Cheers

No new avatar, same one for 3 years, you're probably confusing me with Daniel Stone, which seems to happen a lot here... We are different people lol
 
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wilwahabri

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Ok tried 16 minutes at 25C, and got good looking negs with good tonal variation. On scanning found large areas of grey tended to be 'dotty' rather like newsprint, doesn't look like grain. Could this perhaps be overdeveloped?
 

Murray Kelly

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16m @ 25C does sound excessive to me. But you haven't said what dilution you used. Might be just fine and you're seeing a tad of reticulation. Temperatures can be a trial I know when the tap water is close to 30C as we have in the summer. Good luck, seems you are on track.
 
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wilwahabri

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Sorry, dilution 1+9 Ilfotec dd-x. If it is reticulation is there anything that can reduce it? I have seen some quite passable images in b&w on 110. Will post an example later so you can see what I am getting at?

Processing in a temperature controlled jobo rotary processor with continuous auto reversing agitation.

Dev time is 16 mins @20C, I processed for about 12 mins @25C
 
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wilwahabri

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P1010446 inv.jpg

If you view the photo full screen, you can see what I am getting at. the grey areas. particularly faces appear "dotty". is that a function of frame size or development?
 

StoneNYC

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View attachment 90480

If you view the photo full screen, you can see what I am getting at. the grey areas. particularly faces appear "dotty". is that a function of frame size or development?

Looks over developed ... That's what mine look like when the film is too dense from overdevelopment and scanned.

Pretty good detail for 110 though.
 
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wilwahabri

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Not being too expert at this, I thought that might be the case, get a similar effect if a PCB is left in the ferric chloride too long the copper tracks get eroded.

Reckon I'll shave two minutes off of the dev time at 25°C and give that a try.

The photo was shot with a Pentax Auto 110 Super, the lenses have a higher resolution than the film can register due to the relative grain size. I get equally good results with my Minolta Auto zooms mkI and mkII, Canon ED 20, Minox 110 and the Rollei E and A110 - all have pretty good lenses, though only the Pentax and Minoltas are SLRs
 
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