Print-out paper

[goros]

Hi all,

Recently, I've read in several places about print-out paper. There was kind of explanation in one of those, but I was unable to understand it.

Is there any helping soul that could explain (in plain English or, even better, in Spanish) how it works and what equipment is required?

I'd really appreciate it.

Cheers

 

[Soeren]

Hi all,

Recently, I've read in several places about print-out paper. There was kind of explanation in one of those, but I was unable to understand it.

Is there any helping soul that could explain (in plain English or, even better, in Spanish) how it works and what equipment is required?

I'd really appreciate it.

Cheers

Its Sensitive to UV-light only (Sun)
You contactprint your negative. That means you place your negative on the print-out paper in a frame that wil hold them together troughout the exposure which will last several minutes out side in the sun.
When you disasemple the sandwich there will be an image on the paper which only needs to be fixed, washed and dried, voila

Needed
The paper of cource
a negative the size of your final picture (same as the paper)
Some kind of contact printing frame.
Some trays for wash and fix
A room without direct daylight (tungstenlight is ok)

Hope that helps
Cheers, Søren

 

[Marco Gilardetti]

http://www.albumenworks.com/directions.html

Give it a try. It's worth to keep it alive.

 

[goros]

Thanks Soeren and Marco. It was more or less what I understood. A pity I don't have negs of enough size (only 35 mm).

Again, thanks.

 

[nawagi]

But if you have a computer/Photoshop and a can scan your 35mm negs, you may be able to output larger format negative for POP prints.

 

[Willie Jan]

or use arista ortho film to create larger negatives.
These can be made just like making a print on paper. the ortho film can be handled under red light.

 

[Soeren]

Or get a cheap AGFA CLACK and use the 6X9 negs to make small cartoons.
I have seen that and it looks quite good.
Cheers, Søren

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

You can also make conventional enlarged negatives by making an interpositive with ortho film or with regular photographic paper, then contacting printing the interpositive to another sheet to make the final enlarged negative, and then contact print that to POP.

POP from paper negatives will require longer exposures, but an advantage is that it makes it easy to dodge and burn using pencil on the back of the paper.

 

[raucousimages]

Do you fix in regular fixer?

 

[mark]

Do you fix in regular fixer?

Sodium Thiosulphate.

What is not mentioned above, is that, assuming you do not like sickly orange prints, you will have to tone the image. SOme toners you do before fixing, with Selenium you tone after fixing and before the final wash.

POP is fun, never predictable, and really stinking easy. A couple trays, a contact frame and a light source is all you need.

 

[Dave Wooten]

Do you fix in regular fixer?

Fix in plain Hypo..

 

[Marco Gilardetti]

Fix in plain Hypo..

IMHO a single plain hypo bath yelds to extremely poor results. I have find at my own expense that the gold toning stage BEFORE the plain hypo fix is absolutely necessary to get some results.

 

[PhotoHistorian]

Printing-out Paper as mentioned has an orange to rust to blood red color when exposed to UV light (sun or artificial). Gold toning is the recommended way to tone to a more pleasing color. Up to ten minutes of toning may be neccessary. Albumen Works who produces excellent POP has a good deal of information and demonstration photos on the toning process on their website.

Here is their link: http://www.albumenworks.com/printing-out-paper.html

 

[df cardwell]

Albumen Works sells kentmere paper.

The Basque country would be perfect for POP.

Go for it.

 

[seadrive]

Fix in plain Hypo..

I bought the "POP test pak" from CAW. It contains two 1-liter packets of Kodak Fixer, with hardener.

I'm hoping to give it a try this weekend. Should be fun!

 

[Ole]

To keep shipping charges at "international" level instead of "intercontinental", consider buying POP from Retro Photographic (www.retrophotographic.com) in the UK. At least if you're in Europe.

(I have to mention it, since they're using one of my pictures - a POP print - on their website! )

 

[mark]

Printing-out Paper as mentioned has an orange to rust to blood red color when exposed to UV light (sun or artificial). Gold toning is the recommended way to tone to a more pleasing color. Up to ten minutes of toning may be neccessary. Albumen Works who produces excellent POP has a good deal of information and demonstration photos on the toning process on their website.

Here is their link: http://www.albumenworks.com/printing-out-paper.html

I don't like it toned in Gold. Too generic a look. I prefer selenium after fixing. I like the nostalgic look.

 

[Dave Wooten]

Correct Marco,
Not from my personal experience but I was relating info given on the AlbumenWorks info forum...they do suggest the toning before the hypo and they also note that the print usually lightens from what one sees in the print frame...

 

[jamie young]

You definitely want to print a bit darker than the final image, as fixing does bleach a bit
I would recommend reading the instructions carefully.
after you have exposed the image, you wash the print for 3-5 minutes.This removes the excess unexposed silver. If you go into toner without washing, you will exhaust the toner immediately. The paper is so saturated with silver that it's recommended that you use a two tray fix cycle. The first fix tray will exhaust quickly, and the second tray will deal with any complex silver molecules remaining. Read more on this in the CAW instruction sheet, or go to
http://albumen.stanford.edu/library/monographs/reilly/index.html

POP paper is similar to albumen and salt printing, so a lot of the same things apply

It's a great process
Jamie Young

 

[c6h6o3]

Try the Borax/Gold toner. Much nicer color than that awful brown you get with the thiocyanate toner.

 

[Charles Webb]

A question,
How does this POP paper from Albumen works compare with the now discontinued old EK proof paper?

I still have a proofing machine that used rolls of Kodak's POP. It also takes sheets. Place the neg emulsion to emulsion and feed it into the roller transport. Exposure is controlled by the motor transport speed, the neg and print come out the top of the machine into a collection container.

Just wondering?

Charlie...............................

 

[goros]

or use arista ortho film to create larger negatives.
These can be made just like making a print on paper. the ortho film can be handled under red light.

You mean enlarge a 35 mm neg onto a i.e. 4 x 5 neg, using the enlarger as it was paper? But in this way you will make a positive in film and then a negative on paper.

I would be able to scan the 35 mm negs. Then, what is the next step?

Regards

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

You mean enlarge a 35 mm neg onto a i.e. 4 x 5 neg, using the enlarger as it was paper? But in this way you will make a positive in film and then a negative on paper.

That's called the "interpositive." You contact print the interpositive to another sheet of film, and that will be the enlarged negative, and you make the POP or other alternative print from the enlarged negative.

 

[mark]

No clue Charles, but the machine sounds really cool. Is the light source a UV source?

 

[Soeren]

That's called the "interpositive." You contact print the interpositive to another sheet of film, and that will be the enlarged negative, and you make the POP or other alternative print from the enlarged negative.

Or you could use a reversing development process, thus creating a interneg in one step.
Cheers,
Søren