Pre washing film

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MJLangdon

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I prewash film with water heated to 20 degrees C to get the tank and film to a temperature that matches the developer so the developer doesn't loose temperature when adding it to the tank.
I also do it because the water will swell the emulsion and remove the dye on the film which helps the developer soak into the emulsion evenly, Just make sure you agitate the developer constantly for 20 - 30 seconds before starting the timer to allow the developer to replace the water that has soaked into the emulsion.
I have got a lot more predictable result developing this way compared to not pre soaking, but each to there own.
Try both ways and compare the results, see what you think.

Mike.
 
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Photo Engineer

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Do what works best for you. I find better uniformity, especially with color film and drum processed film and I see fewer pinholes due to air bubbles in all film types when I use a prewet.

PE
 

MattKing

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... and you'll find out that it is a recommendation.

To my way of thinking, when this same seemingly irrefutable point of Ilford is given over and over again, It would be fantastic for once and "for all" to add a reference to the Ilford's reasons (suggestions) as well.

The Ilford recommendations are awkwardly written in their Factsheets relating to film, and clearly written in their Factsheets relating to film developers.

They recommend against using a pre-rinse when you are using rotary agitation. They are silent with respect to inversion agitation.
 

RPC

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I use inversion agitation with no prewet for color negative film and have never had any problems with uniformity, checked with my densitometer. I drop the film reel into the tank of developer and cover it instead of pouring the developer in, so that may be a factor.
 

Gerald C Koch

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Unless someone can cite a scientific study that proves that a presoak improves the uniformity of development as some on APUG claim then I will continue to do what I have done for 70 years. That is no pre-soak. Why bother when I have never seen any effect from not presoaking.
 
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It's also called "pre-wetting". I've been told that if you have air bells during processing, pre-wetting might help. If it's not an issue, don't bother with it. All it does is add wet time which can increase graininess.
 

Photo Engineer

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If you place the film into a tank of developer that is at the correct agitation, then there is little problem, as long as you take steps to dislodge any air bubbles. In a rotary processor, you are subject to streaks as well as air bubbles if you do not prewet. AAMOF, in a rotary processor you are subject to streaks if you don't use a stop bath.

PE
 

RalphLambrecht

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I always prewash film. Maybe it does not help, but it does not harm too. And the cost of prewash is 00.
OK;I'm one hack who believes it does hurt by potentiallycausing uneven development and it does cost extra time. Jobs recommends dropping the pre wash and I did without regret.
 

Photo Engineer

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Ralph, in my hands, if done right, it decreases uneven development, not increase it, especially in rotary processing.

PE
 

Craig

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Very interesting. When using the Jobo I also saw their instruction not to prewet, same as Ilfords' recommendation. I'm only doing sheet film in the Expert tanks. Would the type of tank make a difference? Roll film on reels in a 2500 series tank vs sheet film in an expert tank? So far I have not seen any uneven development, but I have also not shot something like a grey card that is uniform. I do use indicator stop bath between the dev and fix. In small tanks I used to just use water, but our water is slightly alkaline, so I switched to the acid stop.
 

dpurdy

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I had strange problems with the base on HP5 film, weird textures. I thought it was the photo flo at first or the Edwals LFN. Finally I read that Ilford recommended against presoak so I tried that and low and behold the problem went away. Now I presoak Kodak films 2 minutes, as per a Kodak rep's advice, and I never presoak Ilford films.
 

Photo Engineer

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I have every series of Jobo tank and use prewet in all of them, both film and paper. I've tested it vs dip and dunk and there is a big difference. Dip and dunk does not need a prewet and is more accurate, but is harder to do in most cases with the right agitation. I used Nitrogen burst with the D&D. I have problems with all rotary processes without the prewet, and most of the time I need a stop.

PE
 

cliveh

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I may by totally wrong here, but surely a pre-soak means that any ingress of developer has to displace water in the emulsion. This is surely uneven as opposed to developer ingress into dry emulsion.
 

DREW WILEY

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Just the opposite. The emulsion is pre-conditioned to receive the developer evenly, uniformly.
 

Photo Engineer

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If you can do this, I suggest you try. Take a piece of undeveloped film, 120 or 4x5 is preferred, and dip it into plain water. Watch. A pattern of streaks and mottling begins to appear. Do the same with dry film and developer and you will find the same. Now, take the film wet with water and dip it into developer and compare it to the film that went directly into the developer. You will see that the film that was prewet is absorbing developer and beginning to darken more evenly.

Of course, this changes with agitation and becomes better, but with rotation it becomes worse. You get streaks induced by the "pour of emulsion" across the film as the drum rotates.

I've done the above and more.

PE
 

Vaughn

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I may by totally wrong here, but surely a pre-soak means that any ingress of developer has to displace water in the emulsion. This is surely uneven as opposed to developer ingress into dry emulsion.
Another way to look at it -- is that the whole process depends of one chemical displacing/reacting with another chemical already in the emulsion. I think it is safe to consider that the stop reacts evenly with a developer-soaked negative...as will the fixer with a stop-bath soaked negative.

My success with using Expert Drums (8x10) improved radically by switching to a non-hardening fixer.
 
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sepiareverb

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I often prewet when in extremely stressful situations. Not because it helps anything, but because I can't help it.
 

Gerald C Koch

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Something to think about. We don't use prewettin for prints. Yet we don't see any mottling and paper developers are more active than film ones.
 

LAG

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It won’t be me the one who stops this enriching discussion of course, even if my posts are not read, I’ll give it another chance …

The Ilford recommendations are awkwardly written in their Factsheets relating to film, and clearly written in their Factsheets relating to film developers...

Exactly MattKing!, but Why is that “awkwardly for film” and “clearly for developer”? Because there are other factors involved with them, both for film and developers, there are different reasons for different films (structure) and for different developers (formulation & dilution)

…They recommend against using a pre-rinse when you are using rotary agitation. They are silent with respect to inversion agitation.

Because the “movements” are another factor, and some of them are (more or less) predictable (Like the “time” adjustment Ilford also mention in that recommendation)

But, “they recommend against” in those fact sheets, but it would be good to remember (I have no doubt that you also know this) that if you take a look at the Ilford Manual (1958) you’ll find “Pre-soaking is desirable when certain fine-grain developers…” and the same thing happens in previous and subsequent editions to that Ilford’s Manual. Those were other times, with many other different things/factors involved … however, a great example to understand different behaviours with different factors.

Anyway, where I wanted to say is that, is not only a question of Ilford says this or that, and not even their suggestions for or against.

Unless someone can cite a scientific study that proves that a presoak improves the uniformity of development as some on APUG claim then I will continue to do what I have done for 70 years. That is no pre-soak. Why bother when I have never seen any effect from not presoaking.

It’s not merely a question of giving you a scientific study to force compliance with one way or another only, there are scientific studies which lead you to act one way or another depending on many the factors mentioned above: film used – and its structure -, developer used - formulation and dilution -, …), even time and movement are aspects to be considered for that previous use ... (of course temperature is not out of the question either, but somehow I assume that we’re talking about the same for both baths pre&dev, though some temperature-shift might occur without damage)

No offence, If the way you do is good for you, perfect! You do not need further explanation or any justification (scientific or mystical), but being that your procedure (and of course you can achieve perfect results without a single problem) that does not mean that you’re doing it correctly (or correctly by omission) or that there are no risks, for a very simple reason, and I am pretty sure you already know this: Not all the films and developers are the same.

In any case if you want to go deeply in that scientific explanation, I am not the man for you, but you should take a look to the “Heterogeneous balance” within the physical law of action/reaction.

I may by totally wrong here, but surely a pre-soak means that any ingress of developer has to displace water in the emulsion. This is surely uneven as opposed to developer ingress into dry emulsion.

Perhaps not totally wrong, but What makes you think that the displace you’ve mention has to be unequal? Perhaps is the same (unequal) all over the sensitive material, and being that so, wouldn’t it be equal in the end? (of course, for that equal/unequal to happen, it depends on the efficiency of that previous washing) In your post, “surely”, and “any” are not exact, let me ask you another question: What developer and what dilution? Those two factors could affect the answer in your example as well as that previous wash efficiency.

... The emulsion is pre-conditioned to receive the developer evenly, uniformly.

IF ONLY the pre-wash has been done correctly, evenly and uniformly as well.

Something to think about. We don't use prewettin for prints. Yet we don't see any mottling and paper developers are more active than film ones.

Film and paper are different, just like tanks and trays are … different sensitive material, different bath treatment (I am sure you already knew this) ... unless, you use a tank for daylight (multiple) papers development, let me know if you do so and do not pre-wet then, but even in this case, you can be lucky with no problems in your results at all! (but risks exist)

Sorry to everyone to bother with all this literature. With all that said, giving a YES/NO … or any other answer, should be based on “reading the f*****g manual” of films & developers involved, and taking into account all the factors that become part of the process, to take a final decision, without trying to taking the rest of us for granted that "this is the only way it must be done"

If I have to give only an A (yes) or B (no) advice (because we have no other option, or to give the most complete): I have already given my opinion on post numer 10, but that compelling opinion I've given was knowing beforehand that there are lots of factors involved as a result of all this said, and a well known/read/learned matter. I have NO doubt that the YES option, embraces a great deal far more than the negative one, for those reasons/factors/states above mentioned, though neither of them (A/B) ensure anything 100%.

I stop here with all this.
Best regards to all of you

p.s. Edited for Spellcheck

In my own language all this explanation would have been easier (to write), sometimes is hard for me to put the right words the way the most of you make it naturally and incredibly easy (this is normal). Not to mention the time needed for me to write everything down (the harder, the longer). For instance, it's quite curious for me these four words “pre-wash, pre-soak, pre-rinse, pre-wet”, IMO the important word is the “cropped one” Pre = Previous, though they seem to be different actions for the same purpose, which is to wet the sensitive material at the beginning of the process, at least that is how I see it. Should I made a mistake, please let me know.
 
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BMbikerider

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Unless someone can cite a scientific study that proves that a presoak improves the uniformity of development as some on APUG claim then I will continue to do what I have done for 70 years. That is no pre-soak. Why bother when I have never seen any effect from not presoaking.

I entirely agree with this post above. Whilst not 70 years, I can lay claim to 57 for developing. My thinking about pre-soak is that the emulsion is now wet and can result in streaks or uneven development, simply because the developer when introduced will have to contend with water that is already there in unknown quantities. There is no way we can ensure the water pre soak is even and may be worse following the draining when more water may remain in some areas. This will slow down the development process in those areas if the water - the pre wet is not evenly distributed. It will become more apparent if the development time is short. Because of this I wish that C41 was longer than the standard 3mins 15 secs, I would feel happier, although I have not had a serious problem.

I use a JOBO processor and have started to run the drum at the slower speed rather than to faster level. This the only time I have had uneven development, This slower speed has certainly improved the edge of the film development when I use 120 film. 35mm the edges are proportionately wider and are not effected.
 

removed account4

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i even pre wet my prints sometimes, works fine, but there is on magic trick like with film
 

klownshed

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Jobo & Tetenal recommend pre warming the tank, not pre wetting/rinsing for colour film.

Jobo recommend a pre rinse for B&W negative Film without changing the water and then using the normal development time.

Ilford recommend subtracting 15% from the development time with a rotary processor with no pre rinse.

I've tried all the above methods with my Jobo CPE2+

No pre rinse with colour works well.

Pre rinsing with B&W works well.

Not pre rinsing and subtracting 15% from the development time did not turn out well at all and resulted in over development for me.

So when using my Jobo I follow Jobo's recommendations.

For all other times I follow Ilford's instructions. Ilford's getting started guides to film and prints were invaluable for me when I started.

I figure Ilford know their onions and for most occasions they will have tested more than anybody. But the same thing applies to Jobo and I guess they tested their equipment far more than Ilford did. And when there were complaints, I'm guessing Jobo bore the brunt and tested accordingly.

Anyway, as with everything film related, there is always more than one way to do things. amd the internet makes experts of everybody. :smile:
 

Photo Engineer

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Emulsions have no preconditioning to receive anything. Sorry, they are just Silver Halide in gelatin with hardener and enough surfactant to coat properly.

See the test I posted above! It is a simple way to prove a prewet can help.

I use a prewet with prints when I do them in a drum. If I do not, I get streaks. I do this for both color and B&W.

PE
 

RPC

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In a drum or rotary type processor it makes some sense why a prewet could help. But other than that, it is hard to see, with b&w film development times on the order of ten minutes give or take a few minutes, why a prewet or no prewet would mean any difference in uniformity over that long a time. Possibly other factors, yes, but not a prewet per se.
 
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