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Donald Qualls

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Does the cinestill processes normally as any c-41 film?

Cinestill is Vision3 with the remjet either removed before packaging without damaging the emulsion, or left off by Kodak in a custom run -- Cinestill calls it "premoval". As such, it's properly an ECN-2 film, but it can be processed in regular C-41 chemistry with higher contrast results (and possibly very subtle color shifts due to CD4 vs. CD3 based developer).
 

MattKing

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Thanks!

Actually, the xpan does all the job itself. It’s an amazing camera.
Okay - the XPan was well pointed then! :D
 

awty

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This is so great mood.

Does the cinestill processes normally as any c-41 film?
As per what Donald says.
The 800t is good in twilight on rainy days. If you wish to warm up skin tones a orange filter on a flash will help.
This film has been sitting exposed in the fridge for 2 years and could of done better if it sat in the C41 for a bit longer, might of got a bit more shadow detail then....then again theres always mistery in the shadows

cinestill 800158 (2).jpg
 

Luis Filipe

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Thanks!

Actually, the xpan does all the job itself. It’s an amazing camera.

Well not all lol

I've tried cropping like this some times, It can save some images. But its something completely different to shoot as is.
 

Luis Filipe

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Cinestill is Vision3 with the remjet either removed before packaging without damaging the emulsion, or left off by Kodak in a custom run -- Cinestill calls it "premoval". As such, it's properly an ECN-2 film, but it can be processed in regular C-41 chemistry with higher contrast results (and possibly very subtle color shifts due to CD4 vs. CD3 based developer).

In resume, yes, but with slight consequences.

I think its beautiful and its what many photoshopers try to simulate as called cinematic look.
 

Donald Qualls

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In resume, yes, but with slight consequences.

I think its beautiful and its what many photoshopers try to simulate as called cinematic look.

I did say "very slight" color shift.

Master the remjet removal, and come up with a bulk loader that will handle a 400 foot camera roll, and you can load your own (in 35mm, at least) without having to pay Cinestill's prices. Then again, there's something to be said for being able to drop the stuff off at the local mini-lab, if you have a local mini-labl.
 

MattKing

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It is more than colour shift - because that is easily dealt with.
It is colour crossover, which is much more challenging.
 

awty

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I did say "very slight" color shift.

Master the remjet removal, and come up with a bulk loader that will handle a 400 foot camera roll, and you can load your own (in 35mm, at least) without having to pay Cinestill's prices. Then again, there's something to be said for being able to drop the stuff off at the local mini-lab, if you have a local mini-labl.
Can you remove said remiet after processing? or do you need to do it before hand.
 

Donald Qualls

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Can you remove said remiet after processing? or do you need to do it before hand.

To prevent gross contamination of the color developer, you need to get the worst of it off before, but this is easily done -- make up a bath of sodium carbonate (washing soda, or soda ash for swimming pool pH adjustment) in process temperature water and presoak the film in it. Give vigorous agitation the last minute or so of the presoak (as in, shake it like James Bond's martini), and then wash (still at process temperature) until the black pouring off is gone. That'll get enough off not to cause trouble with your developer, then you can rub the rest off the base side of the film with wet fingers during the wash step. YouTube has several videos on removing remjet, if you want to see it done.
 

NB23

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Three prints, well actually five, soaking in bath.
4x10 polywarmtone fb.
B2BC1734-D739-4C21-A2A6-41CED882BB07.jpeg
 

awty

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To prevent gross contamination of the color developer, you need to get the worst of it off before, but this is easily done -- make up a bath of sodium carbonate (washing soda, or soda ash for swimming pool pH adjustment) in process temperature water and presoak the film in it. Give vigorous agitation the last minute or so of the presoak (as in, shake it like James Bond's martini), and then wash (still at process temperature) until the black pouring off is gone. That'll get enough off not to cause trouble with your developer, then you can rub the rest off the base side of the film with wet fingers during the wash step. YouTube has several videos on removing remjet, if you want to see it done.
Thanks. Sounds easy enough.
 

NB23

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015ABE60-DC44-409D-B4E8-43BAF6710782.jpeg
 

Vonder

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Ran into a fellow film photographer out shooting his Hasselblad down in Iowa City today. He was kind enough to pose with it! (then I posed for him and broke his camera! haha!)

Street photographer, Iowa City, Iowa.

Contax RX, Ilford XP2 film
i-qR23NHP-X2.jpg
 

NB23

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01DDAF98-1F24-4982-AFAE-E81D92DAAC8B.jpeg
The gypsy life.
foma matte paper, looove it. First time I use it, threw the box away. Gonna have to find out which it is.
 
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Sirius Glass

Sirius Glass

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Ran into a fellow film photographer out shooting his Hasselblad down in Iowa City today. He was kind enough to pose with it! (then I posed for him and broke his camera! haha!)

Street photographer, Iowa City, Iowa.

Contax RX, Ilford XP2 film
View attachment 268849

Post it on the Is that a Hasselblad? thread.
 
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