Thanks for your post Northeast,Under absolutely perfect conditions and with perfect technique you should be able to make a very nice 35mm negative.
Of course your average Pentax 645 negative will totally blow it away, to say nothing of Pentax 6x7...
Thanks NortheastPhotographic.Batis is for E mount, Sony mirrorless only.
Otus is for F and EF mount. Fully compatible with Canon and Nikon film and digital bodies.
Hello Henning,
Thanks very much sharing your experience in this thread.
I'm concerned that the lenses made in the digital era are optimized for imaging sensors(which at a very early point, do not deal with true optical image any more).
That optimization could in a way(do not know honestly) alter or modify the projected true optical image, in a way that any film may not expect to depict as usual !
We all know even the best film era lenses specially wide angles, do not perform as the newer digital lenses on imaging sensors.
If reversed, could this rule be abolished? I do not exactly know.
And to what extent the difference in MTF could be seen on print(large one of course), between the older high performance lenses(like distagon 35/1.4 ZF.2) and the newer ones like Milvus 35/1.4 ZF.2 .
While you are around, I'm using this privilege/advantage to submit the most specific concerns that I have.
Appreciate your reply Henning.
Regards.
That's what I would call a " very daring thesis " Henning
SO IF YOUR LENS SHOWS 95lp AND THE FILM HAVE 95Lp = 95Lp ???
If your diferent links of the chain have not the ability of same performance (like it is here from example) the final resolution you can have is. UNDER 95Lp???
That would mean : Lens 95Lp / Film 115Lp = not more than 85Lp in summary!???
Yes the Zeiss 2/50 Makro-Planar is a gem. Very versatile as a normal lens, as not only is it razor sharp but it will focus down to 1:2 when you need it. Also, it maintains excellent performance at infinity, unlike many macro lenses.
No, it is not a thesis. It is based on thousands of tests I've made in the last decades. I am running (as one of my projects) an independent optical test lab. Concerning the resolution tests I have more than 10,000 test shots in my archive. If you are interested to see, just join one of the film photographer meetings I organise in Hanover. I've regularly shown examples there.
There is a "rule of thumb" (based on the 'Fehlerfortpflanzungsgesetz'): 1/system resolution = 1/lens resolution + 1/ film/sensor resolution. That is not an exact formula to calcute resolution very precisely to 5 - 10 lp/mm level, but it works well in general.
The mistake most photographers do (you included) is that they most often use already the system resolution as value for lens and / or film resolution. And then they mostly get too low values. You have to use the aerial resolution values for the lenses, and they are much much higher. A very good, modern lens is diffraction limited, so the aerial resolution is e.g. about 400 lp/mm at f4, and about 250 lp/mm at f5.6. Another factor which has to be considered is the object contrast of the detail you are photographing. Resolution is depending on the object contrast of the detail. I use for my standard resolution tests an object contrast of 1:4 = two stops. That is an object contrast which can be found in almost all scenes with several details, so it gives a relevant data/value for daily photography.
The whole topic is of course a very big one. Please let's do not destroy this thread by unneccesary discussion of tiny details (I also don't have the time for that). The message to the OP I can give from all my tests is - as said above - that you really can benefit from modern 35mm lenses as a film shooter. That is important to know.
Best regards,
Henning
No, it is not a thesis. It is based on thousands of tests I've made in the last decades. I am running (as one of my projects) an independent optical test lab. Concerning the resolution tests I have more than 10,000 test shots in my archive. If you are interested to see, just join one of the film photographer meetings I organise in Hanover. I've regularly shown examples there.
There is a "rule of thumb" (based on the 'Fehlerfortpflanzungsgesetz'): 1/system resolution = 1/lens resolution + 1/ film/sensor resolution. That is not an exact formula to calcute resolution very precisely to 5 - 10 lp/mm level, but it works well in general.
The mistake most photographers do (you included) is that they most often use already the system resolution as value for lens and / or film resolution. And then they mostly get too low values. You have to use the aerial resolution values for the lenses, and they are much much higher. A very good, modern lens is diffraction limited, so the aerial resolution is e.g. about 400 lp/mm at f4, and about 250 lp/mm at f5.6. Another factor which has to be considered is the object contrast of the detail you are photographing. Resolution is depending on the object contrast of the detail. I use for my standard resolution tests an object contrast of 1:4 = two stops. That is an object contrast which can be found in almost all scenes with several details, so it gives a relevant data/value for daily photography.
The whole topic is of course a very big one. Please let's do not destroy this thread by unneccesary discussion of tiny details (I also don't have the time for that). The message to the OP I can give from all my tests is - as said above - that you really can benefit from modern 35mm lenses as a film shooter. That is important to know.
Best regards,
Henning
Ähmm sorry to ASK again - just in short : Sweetspot more in direction of f4 than near 5.6?
K-mount - yes that was in the past!I forgot about them being offered in the K-mount. Interesting thus that they meanwhile cancelled that mount-versions.
Much thanks for clarifying it (my thoughts were in simular direction) - but I wasn't sure about!It depends on the (35mm) lens: Some excellent lenses - especially some of the modern lenses with max. apertures of 1.2 or 1.4 - have their "sweet spot" = best performance already at f4.
But most prime lenses (and high quality zooms with max. aperture of f2.8) have their "sweet spot" at f5.6.
Most excellent primes have decreasing performance from f8 onwards (including f8) because of diffraction.
Amateur zooms with max. aperture of 3.5 / 4.5 often have their sweet spot at f8 (but on a lower level compared to primes).
All the medium format lenses with max. aperture of 2.8 I've tested so far have their sweet spot also at f5.6. One (Mamiya Sekor C 2.8/55) has equal performance at f5.6 and f8.
Best regards,
Henning
I remember something about Heidelberg scanning workflow!
Guess that was from you!
!
I forgot about them being offered in the K-mount. Interesting thus that they meanwhile cancelled that mount-versions.
... Having used Tech Pan a lot in the past ... what's your take on that vs CMS 20 II?
...
ADOX CMS 20 II has significantly
- higher resolution
- better sharpness
- finer grain
compared to Technical Pan. Another important difference is the spectral sensivity...
... "sweet spot" ...
All this obsession with MTF in expensive and bulky lenses .... I guess if you want optimal video output from a digital 35mm camera at the expense of convenient handholding ability it might make sense. Just look at the weight. If it's not on a tripod, you're going to give up all that precision anyway by either via shake or needing a faster film with bigger grain that makes all the extra MTF irrelevant anyway. In terms of still images, any modern MF system should skunk it without even needing to catch its breath. There is simply no substitute for more square inches or centimeters of film if detail and texture is what you're after. Large format, even better. A calculator can't fake that. And there's the whole questions of intangibles ... the "look" certain older lenses give that overtly clinical modern ones don't. I tend to find some them excessively contrasty. But if you can afford one of these - or at least arrange to borrow or rent such lenses relative to your own expectations, prior to potential purchase, that would be the way to go. What is you're philosophy about 35mm anyway? To each his own; bit I use it for sake of handheld ease with fast films and poetic little prints, not for attempting to bag big detailed and hue-rich enlargements, which bigger cameras not only do far far better, but more cost-effectively too.
If it's not on a tripod, you're going to give up all that precision anyway by either via shake or needing a faster film with bigger grain that makes all the extra MTF irrelevant anyway.
And there's the whole questions of intangibles ... the "look" certain older lenses give that overtly clinical modern ones don't.
It isn't all about peak MTF performance. They excel in virtually all lens attributes.
What is the max. format you are printing with 8x10 - with what lens and at what apertureWell, I knew I was throwing a rock at a hornet's nest. Doesn't invalidate my own opinion. You can go out and buy a Lamborghini or Ferari that goes 90mph in second gear; but finding a road that allows you to go even that fast without getting into a wreck or getting a ticket is another story. I can walk out the door with a 6X9 rangefinder and more easily handhold it than what you're describing, that will deliver image content ridiculously better. And it cost a fraction as much. And all this talk about ultra-fine-grained films to match? Who ya kidding? Every tiny zit on those squirrely emulsions ends up the size of a blimp on significant enlargement. And what about tonality? There's a huge penalty to that too. I' not trying to start a format war. And I applaud advances in lens engineering, especially when it's cross-compatible with film usage. But you are paying a helluva price for a relative small increment of technical improvement. Some people legitimately need that, and have logical reasons for sticking to 35mm (which, I admit, is in fact the parameter of this thread). But I think that many are just coveting the idea that if they own something expensive enough they'll make better pictures, which tends to be make-believe if they can't do it already.
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