Paper backed roll film made with backing paper cut at home.

qqphot

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I'm curious which cameras and spools you're using that 127 with. I got a FK127 slitter but the 127 strip it produces is half a mm too wide for any recycled spools I have (mostly original Kodak metal ones, some Efke and Rera plastic ones) and in fact doesn't really fit the film channel of my baby rolleiflex. I tried to shim the blade a bit to adjust but there's no way that I can find to fix it. Maybe the one I got was just a fluke.

I currently use one of the XKAES ones (i think he's around this forum) and it's pretty easy and produces a very accurate width, but of course needs to be used in total darkness.
 

Cholentpot

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I'm using standard spools I've collected over the years. Mostly metal, a few plastic and a couple really nice brass and silver colored. I've been shooting on a Yashica 44 with a crank Yashica 44 with a knob, Ricoh Super 44 and a few brownies of different kinds. If anything the paper is slightly narrow rather than wide. I tend to get some edge leaks.
 

qqphot

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Interesting, I guess there must be some variation from unit to unit. I wish I had been able to shim mine to cut a bit narrower.
 

ozphoto

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Ohhh 127 and 828 backing papers would be awesome!!
 

Donald Qualls

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Cholentpot said:
I did not know that the 645 numbers are useful for 4x4. I've been marking the paper myself which is a pain.
Click to expand...

You do get a little excess spacing (about 5 mm extra per frame) but the framing track is correctly located for either 127 or 828 cut from that edge of 120. I've done both a number of times. The 6x6 track is correctly located for the 4x6.5/4x3 on 127, too, if you cut for the 6x4.5 track but you'll have a few millimeters of frame overlap since the 127 full frame is 4x6.5. I've masked the frame in my Baby Ikonta and it works fairly well (double window on the full frame 127 track).
 

tezzasmall

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Be careful though, of which camera one loads with paper negative lengths attached to backing paper.

I have only done it once so far, but I put a roll in my Bronica SQB, and did an exposure test over the whole roll, to find the correct ISO for the paper I was using.

The paper negatives came out brilliantly across the range and I'm looking forward to trying to enlarge one or two of them.

When I mentioned this to someone, they warned me that the tension on the internals of the camera would be put to a lot harder work, than with film, which the cameras are designed for and should think of only using a more basic camera like a Holga etc. Good point I thought!

Terry S
 

Donald Qualls

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Look at how much spring travel the pressure plate has in the camera you intend to use. If it's as much as 2.5 mm, it should be fine to use RC photo paper in place of film. No harm will be done to the spring leaves by compressing them more, as long as they're not mashed so flat the metal takes a permanent deformation.
 
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MCB18

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This paper likes inkjet, which means I can print on it! I think it turned out really well!
 

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John Wiegerink

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MCB18 said:
This paper likes inkjet, which means I can print on it! I think it turned out really well!
Click to expand...
Great job! I applaud you for your work. Maybe you could make some extra cash on the"classifieds" here. 127 and 122 film size would sell for sure.
 

Hunter_Compton

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MCB18 said:
This paper likes inkjet, which means I can print on it! I think it turned out really well!
Click to expand...

Are you putting inkjet ink on the parts that will contact the film, or only on the ends? My concern would be a reaction between the inkjet ink and the film itself, as the former is less stable than something such as acrylic paint.
 

MattKing

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Hunter_Compton said:
Are you putting inkjet ink on the parts that will contact the film, or only on the ends? My concern would be a reaction between the inkjet ink and the film itself, as the former is less stable than something such as acrylic paint.
Click to expand...

+1 - inkjet frame numbers would be an invitation to wrapper offset issues!
 
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MCB18

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John Wiegerink said:
Great job! I applaud you for your work. Maybe you could make some extra cash on the"classifieds" here. 127 and 122 film size would sell for sure.
Click to expand...
If I figure out a way to slit the paper, then I’d love to sell paper in widths that could accommodate that. I couldn’t print anything on the paper, as my printer can’t do long rolls, and as mentioned inkjet ink wouldn’t work well in this case.

Hunter_Compton said:
Are you putting inkjet ink on the parts that will contact the film, or only on the ends? My concern would be a reaction between the inkjet ink and the film itself, as the former is less stable than something such as acrylic paint.
Click to expand...
Nope, that’s one reason why I feel comfortable making 220 paper like this, there’s no ink in contact with the film. That, and I can print it onto a single sheet of paper, cut it into 3 strips the right width, and tape the 2 strips that make up the leader together since that join doesn’t need to be light-tight.
 

lamerko

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The films look like a factory sample - congratulations

Hunter_Compton said:
Are you putting inkjet ink on the parts that will contact the film, or only on the ends? My concern would be a reaction between the inkjet ink and the film itself, as the former is less stable than something such as acrylic paint.
Click to expand...

With the 220 format this problem is minimized.
 

John Wiegerink

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Wolfram Malukker said:
So far, Epson Ecotank black ink does not exhibit this problem when fully dry on this paper. Test started in December.
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Thanks for that bit of testing. I was wondering if all ink from inkjet printer would leave wrapper offset. I wonder if the manufactures of film backing paper know this??? I can't believe they don't, but who knows.
 

Wolfram Malukker

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I mean, it's still inkjet printed. The new kodak papers are simply calendared and varnished over the ink, because no one wants to wait for the ink to dry completely, it takes too long for commercial processes.

All those older papers that people still love to use? They were calendar printed. Nothing more than printed and fully dried. The big changes came when suppliers switched to high speed inkjet printing *because* it doesn't need that extra time to not rub off-it still is outgassing solvents and it's still wet, and many current inks will do so forever, because *it isn't important* for them to be dry for what the printer does 99.99% of the time anymore.
 
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MCB18

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Wolfram Malukker said:
So far, Epson Ecotank black ink does not exhibit this problem when fully dry on this paper. Test started in December.
Click to expand...
Out of curiosity, how are you testing these films? Do you just have some samples in the dark being pressed up against the ink, and you develop a bit every so often?
 

Wolfram Malukker

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Yep, exactly that. I have some Foma 100 that I re-rolled in the red backing paper with the Epson ink, in big double-density black squares. It isn't the best reroll job and there is some edge fogging, and I'm only taking photos of a grey brick wall, but so far I can't see anything. I'm not refrigerating the rolls or anything, they're just in my desk drawer.
 

Donald Qualls

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Wolfram Malukker

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it's an air conditioned room, so not that much in the way of temp or humidity fluctuations. I checked in February, and I'll check again in july sometime.
 
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MCB18

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Made some film with the red backing paper today, 5 220 rolls. The 120 is still rolled on recycled paper but I have had great luck with the 220 papers I’ve made so far.
 

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