Joe Lipka said:...Then it is easier to focus the negative on the easel. But of course if you are a proper darkroom worker ...
Will S said:paint it red.... same color as your safelight (if your safelight is red that is)
That's what you need to do with those silly Saunders yellow easels and all the others that have not stuck with either white or neutral gray. Yellow easels, red easels, shellac painted wooden baseboards etc. all tend to introduce noise into the colour printing process. The choice between white, neutral gray or black is, I think, more a question of application than much else. If the frame or baseboard will be used as a a reproduction rig then black is probably the best colour. If its for colour and B&W and one uses single weight or vellum stocks then gray formica is a good choice. Gray paint, however, tends to be less neutral than the matted whites that are available so if its about painting then I'd select white. A good flat black does not hurt but its less than practical and, in general, provides little advantage over gray or even white-- and there is always the possibility to sandwidth a piece of black board between a white base and paper.psvensson said:I painted mine black, but that's because I print color sometimes. I haven't really tested if it makes a difference.
Bob F. said:No difference. Not in the scan, but more importantly, not by inspecting them under a variety of lighting (i.e. from daylight, up to and including a 1kw security lamp). There is actually a very, very, slight hint of a suspicion of a suggestion of a possibility of extra density in the foil strip when viewed by transmitted light on the light box, but other than that, they are all identical.
Cheers, Bob.
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