Opemus 6 colour for Black and white advice

[Chrishuddersfield]

Hello

Some advice please
I recently purchased an Opemus 6 enlarger, however, I was seeking a Durst M670BW, as these are the enlargers I’m using in college.

The chap I Obtained the Opemus 6 from said he used it for black and white, because it’s capable of both.

A couple of questions..
At college I use the M670BW and we have Ilford filters for contrast. On my Opemus 6 there is no filter tray, however the chap who owned it said I could use/add the magenta on the colour part.
Is this true ? Can I match the filter grades at college doing this?

Also what plug in timers are compatible with the Opemus 6. Again at college we have wired in timers which helps with the exposure time.

Does anyone have experience with this enlarger?

Any info or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Paul Howell]

Many perfer to use a color head for black and white as the filters are built in, when I use a color head I use a combo of magenta and yellow depending on the paper grade I want. I have a Opemus 6 with a condenser head, any timer will work, and the 6 has a really neat feature, a built in rangefinder for focusing. Pull the negative carrier out part way and you will a split image that will come togeather when in focus. I've doubled checked mine with a grain focuser spot on every time.

 

[AgX]

Welcome to Apug!


Multicontrast papers can be exposed in different ways, using

-) plain filter in filter-tray
-) optical grade filter below lens in swiveling holder
-) mixing chamber head dedicated for these papers
-) mixing chamber head dedicated for colour papers, but using a filter table

You seemingly intend to use a colour papers head. Here you either can use
-) optical grade filters under the lens (Ilford offers a special holder for these) witgh head art white-light setting
-) the color head for filtration, employing the Opemus (Meopta) settings at the table you find here: https://www.ilfordphoto.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Contrast-control-for-Ilford-Multigrade.pdf

 

[AgX]

Concerning the timer, it depends on the load of the enlarger.
At a good timer you find explicite figures for the load it can stand, but often you only find one figure, if at all. This figure must be at least be as big as the wattage of the lamp, if you have a lamp directly connected to the mains. If you have a halogen lamp of low voltage driven by a transformer, the timer either should have as figure for halogen lamps or have a figure quite bigger than the wattage of that halogen lamp.

However, in the range of enlargers we are talking here typically no problems are reported with the common timers.
If you keep to my first advise you are on the electrically safe side, the second advice is meant for longtime hasslefree use of such timer.

 

[AgX]

The different settings at colour heads needed for same b&w contrast setting are due the fact that historically manufacturers used different colour-density units at their scales.

 

[Chrishuddersfield]

Hello

Thanks for the feedback. I didn’t expect so much info so soon. Appreciated.
Might be a daft question, but could I lay an Ilford filter on top on my negative? The course I’m on is quite specific in some parts of the brief and they require I use filters.. or demonstrate I have done. For example I may use a grade 2 or 3 for parts of the image. How does a grade 2 or 3 on the Ilford papers correlate to the magenta, etc on the Opemus enlarger? For example what would a grade 2 be equivalent to on the Opemus? Keeping it simple I mean. Thanks

 

[Chrishuddersfield]

Would you say the Opemus is a better enlarger than the Durst M670BW I was initially seeking?
Thanks

 

[koraks]

could I lay an Ilford filter on top on my negative?

You could, but it's not recommended. Keep the filters as far away from the focal plane as possible. Any dust on your filters would otherwise render sharply in the print.

Just use the M and Y dials for filtering. Works a charm. Don't worry too much about hitting an exact grade 2 etc. You'll find it really doesn't matter if something is called grade 2.5 or 2.0 (not to mention there's quiet a wide margins in how they're defined anyway).

 

[Paul Howell]

With a color head it is quite easy to learn split contrast printing in which use the lowest yellow filter and highest magenta filters with 2 different exposures, for many people split printing is a way of life. In terms of which is a better enlarger, I had a Durst 600, good enlarger, what I liked is that I had a 6X6 and 35mm condenser, the Opemus, while there might be a 35mm condenser here in the U.S have not seen one for sale. As mentioned in pervious post, the Opemus has the rangefinder focus that I like. Might give a nod the Durst for build quality, not that I've had any issues with the Opemus.

 

[AgX]

Might be a daft question, but could I lay an Ilford filter on top on my negative?

From the filtration effect yes, but it is NOT equivalent to placing a filter in a dedicated filter tray. Reason is that now the filter is located in or near the focal plane and scratches etc.on the filter would now be projected and printed too. Another issue is that, depending on the way the negative is held, a not flat filter might push the negative partially out of the focal plane.

 

[MattKing]

The course I’m on is quite specific in some parts of the brief and they require I use filters.. or demonstrate I have done. For example I may use a grade 2 or 3 for parts of the image. How does a grade 2 or 3 on the Ilford papers correlate to the magenta, etc on the Opemus enlarger? For example what would a grade 2 be equivalent to on the Opemus? Keeping it simple I mean. Thanks

The Ilford link in AgX's post # 3 tells you which settings (Magenta and Yellow) to use on your color head in order to mimic the #2 filter and the #3 filter.
This one:

 

[Chrishuddersfield]

Thank you all very much for all the feedback. Really appreciate this. Helped me out so much. I have a deadline in two weeks and have plenty to sort .
Plenty of dodging and burning to do also.

 

[Chrishuddersfield]

The Ilford link in AgX's post # 3 tells you which settings (Magenta and Yellow) to use on your color head in order to mimic the #2 filter and the #3 filter.
This one:
View attachment 295935

 

[Chrishuddersfield]

Can’t seem to thank everyone individually on here , or it won’t let me. My next question is what lenses are best for this model ( Opemus) , for 35m and medium format? There are 3 lenses with my kit.

 

[MattKing]

Can’t seem to thank everyone individually on here , or it won’t let me. My next question is what lenses are best for this model ( Opemus) , for 35m and medium format? There are 3 lenses with my kit.

I'm sure you can - you are probably not putting the text in the right place in the box before you hit "Post Reply".
There are a vast range of enlarging lenses that might be made to work.
The variables requiring consideration are:
1) focal length;
2) brand;
3) model;
4) maximum aperture;
5) mount size;
6) age (i.e. which version of a particular lens);
7) convenience features (e.g. illuminated apertures); and the most important
8) condition.
There are probably a few more as well.
Different enlargers use different systems for mounting lenses, so if you are considering a lens, it can be helpful if the appropriate mount (often a threaded board or collar) is either included or easily obtained.
The mounts are interchangeable usually, so the same lens can be used on different enlargers. In addition, it is possible usually to share one mount between several lenses, but it is a lot nicer if each lens has its own mount.
Show us pics of the front, side and back of each lens you have, with any text thereon being readable, and we can give you an idea of how good, bad or indifferent they are, and what range they may cover. It would also be helpful to have a measurement of the threads at the back of the lenses - something like 25mm, 39mm, 50mm - so we can advise further.
In case you don't have it, here is a link to the basic manual: http://dedius.free.fr/public/Photo/MEOPTA/ENLARGERS/NOTICES/opemus-6-standard-en.pdf
And here is a link on the Film and Darkroom User site to a thread with a link to the manual for one of the colour heads that works with your enlarger - perhaps the one you have: http://www.film-and-darkroom-user.org.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=9104

 

[Paul Howell]

The Optum takes a 50 and 75mm, the lens board has the cone facing down for 50 and reversed with cone inverted for the 75mm, I had my lens board drilled to take a set of lens I had on hand, I think it comes with 25mm drilled lens board. Metopo made several levels of lens, 3, 4 and 6 elements, the 4 and 6 elements are quite good.

 

[pentaxuser]

Hello

The course I’m on is quite specific in some parts of the brief and they require I use filters.. or demonstrate I have done.

I take it that the course insists on the use of filters but not what kind of filters i.e. colour filters such as either Y or M or both can be used and there is nothing in the rules that says that Ilford multigrade filters have to be used?. If you are sure on this point, fine but if there is any doubt about what the organisers mean by filters then do check with them

If it is MG filters that have to be used you can buy a set of under-the-lens Ilford MG filters and a holder that fits onto the lens

pentaxuser

 

[AgX]

I can imagine a course where contrast filtering at printing is asked for, but not the way that filtering is achieved.

And to avoid misunderstandings, a task could also be to use contrast filters at taking of b&w photographs. Which would concern a totally different kind of contrast and a different means to achieve it.

 

[Mick Fagan]

Would you say the Opemus is a better enlarger than the Durst M670BW I was initially seeking?
Thanks

Yes and no.

The build quality of Durst enlargers would generally be of a higher standard, but that doesn't mean either will work better or worse than the other.

The Meopta enlargers are big on design features that are very user friendly and filled with great features normally found on very expensive enlargers.

The colour head you have is probably the Meopta 3 color head. If this is the case then you have one of the better units for enlarging in either colour of B&W. On the right you will see a white dial with the letter "D" under it. The D stands for density and when I am using any enlarger with a density setting, I always use it.

each 30 units represents one stop of density, there are (from memory) two stops of density available. I would set the density setting to 30 units (one stop of blocking of light. I make a test print or two and determine that I'm about there, but I need to add or detract a ¼ of a stop to get a better print. One simply adds or detracts 7.5 units for a ¼ of a stop difference, then make another print without changing anything and your print will be ¼ stop darker or ¼ stop lighter.

Going on which part of the world you live in, think of the Meopta range of enlargers as similar to the Dacia automobiles; nothing flash but they do a very good job quite well.

Also, you should be able to use almost any type of enlarger timer, including a finger on the power point switch and using the second hand on a clock. For some years I did just that using a stopwatch, worked reasonably well, not brilliantly....

 

[Chrishuddersfield]

Many perfer to use a color head for black and white as the filters are built in, when I use a color head I use a combo of magenta and yellow depending on the paper grade I want. I have a Opemus 6 with a condenser head, any timer will work, and the 6 has a really neat feature, a built in rangefinder for focusing. Pull the negative carrier out part way and you will a split image that will come togeather when in focus. I've doubled checked mine with a grain focuser spot on every time.

Thanks

 

[Chrishuddersfield]

Yes and no.

The build quality of Durst enlargers would generally be of a higher standard, but that doesn't mean either will work better or worse than the other.

The Meopta enlargers are big on design features that are very user friendly and filled with great features normally found on very expensive enlargers.

The colour head you have is probably the Meopta 3 color head. If this is the case then you have one of the better units for enlarging in either colour of B&W. On the right you will see a white dial with the letter "D" under it. The D stands for density and when I am using any enlarger with a density setting, I always use it.

each 30 units represents one stop of density, there are (from memory) two stops of density available. I would set the density setting to 30 units (one stop of blocking of light. I make a test print or two and determine that I'm about there, but I need to add or detract a ¼ of a stop to get a better print. One simply adds or detracts 7.5 units for a ¼ of a stop difference, then make another print without changing anything and your print will be ¼ stop darker or ¼ stop lighter.

Going on which part of the world you live in, think of the Meopta range of enlargers as similar to the Dacia automobiles; nothing flash but they do a very good job quite well.

Also, you should be able to use almost any type of enlarger timer, including a finger on the power point switch and using the second hand on a clock. For some years I did just that using a stopwatch, worked reasonably well, not brilliantly....

Thanks

 

[Chrishuddersfield]

Yes and no.

The build quality of Durst enlargers would generally be of a higher standard, but that doesn't mean either will work better or worse than the other.

The Meopta enlargers are big on design features that are very user friendly and filled with great features normally found on very expensive enlargers.

The colour head you have is probably the Meopta 3 color head. If this is the case then you have one of the better units for enlarging in either colour of B&W. On the right you will see a white dial with the letter "D" under it. The D stands for density and when I am using any enlarger with a density setting, I always use it.

each 30 units represents one stop of density, there are (from memory) two stops of density available. I would set the density setting to 30 units (one stop of blocking of light. I make a test print or two and determine that I'm about there, but I need to add or detract a ¼ of a stop to get a better print. One simply adds or detracts 7.5 units for a ¼ of a stop difference, then make another print without changing anything and your print will be ¼ stop darker or ¼ stop lighter.

Going on which part of the world you live in, think of the Meopta range of enlargers as similar to the Dacia automobiles; nothing flash but they do a very good job quite well.

Also, you should be able to use almost any type of enlarger timer, including a finger on the power point switch and using the second hand on a clock. For some years I did just that using a stopwatch, worked reasonably well, not brilliantly....

Welcome to Apug!


Multicontrast papers can be exposed in different ways, using

-) plain filter in filter-tray
-) optical grade filter below lens in swiveling holder
-) mixing chamber head dedicated for these papers
-) mixing chamber head dedicated for colour papers, but using a filter table

You seemingly intend to use a colour papers head. Here you either can use
-) optical grade filters under the lens (Ilford offers a special holder for these) witgh head art white-light setting
-) the color head for filtration, employing the Opemus (Meopta) settings at the table you find here: https://www.ilfordphoto.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Contrast-control-for-Ilford-Multigrade.pdf

 

[Chrishuddersfield]

Thanks for your feedback everyone. Really appreciated. I can’t seem to work this forum out yet.

 

[Tom Kershaw]

Thanks for your feedback everyone. Really appreciated. I can’t seem to work this forum out yet.

Are all the enlargers the same model of Durst? As I remember it when I used a college darkroom the enlargers were a mix of Durst and LPL of varying models, multigrade, colour, and with filters - kept you on your toes.

 

[pentaxuser]

I can’t seem to work this forum out yet.

Just out of curiosity, which bits have you not been able to work out?

pentaxuser