You are dreaming.
When they were current, they were both rare and (relatively speaking) expensive. And they were unlikely to be purchased by someone who was buying it as a status symbol rather than a camera to be used.
So they are unlikely to be found at a garage sale.
That's true.
But if you find it really cheap, most likely this will be at a yard sale. Unlike on eBay, at yard sales oftentimes the seller has no idea what stuff is worth. (A common scenario: grandpa dies, relatives throw all his old camera equipment into a box and try to sell it for next to nothing). Some of the best deals on cameras and lenses I ever came across were at yard sales. Of course finding a specific camera model at a yard sale, especially a relatively rare model, requires much luck and patience.
The OM-3 might have had tighter tolerances than the OM-1 and would have benefited from a few more years of development, but the OM-1 was never a consumer grade camera. My only criticism of the OM-1 compared to the OM-4 with respect to quality is the mirror vibration is a bit more noticeable but it doesn't seem to affect the photos.more accurate than the consumer-grade OM-1
It seems to me to be the opposite. I don't feel vibrations with the OM-1.My only criticism of the OM-1 compared to the OM-4 with respect to quality is the mirror vibration is a bit more noticeable but it doesn't seem to affect the photos.
It seems to me to be the opposite. I don't feel vibrations with the OM-1.
You can't have everything instead of lusting after more and more cameras you should learn to make better pictures with the equipment you have. Photography Isn't a problem to be solved by throwing money at it.
I bought one a few years ago. Very nice camera, but I don't do 35mm very much these days and I use my first 1974 om-1 and 2 om-4's more.Any of you guys own an OM-3.?
Good Heavens, they are worth their weight.
I keep hoping to find one, at a garage sale, in its box, almost unused, for 15 dollars.
I have never even seen one, other than a picture in a magazine.
I've been happily using mine since I bought it new.No like for OM-2sp? Spot metering in manual mode with nice bars...
The meter needle jumps and the same happens be it an OM-2SP or a OM-4 cause the cells on the -1 are in the prism housing, so when mirror flips up, it darkens the view for the meter.It may be just that the meter needle jumps when you take a photo with the OM-1 so you can see the vibration... Or it could be that my OM-1 needs new mirror dampers.
The meter needle jumps and the same happens be it an OM-2SP or a OM-4 cause the cells on the -1 are in the prism housing, so when mirror flips up, it darkens the view for the meter.
Then your OM-1 must be defective.The mirror on my OM-1 is noticeably more prominent than my OM-4.
The meter needle of the 1 visibly ocillates. I've never noticed the OM-4 meter jump after an exposure. Or the OM-2's either. But You can't miss the OM-1's needle jump about after the mirror goes 'thwack'. ;-)
I use my OM-1 regularly and it's a smooth and satisfying performer in every regard. But the mirror is definitely more slappy than the 4. Nowhere near the children-frightening smack of the Bronica SQ-A, and it's a satisfying sound all round. The OM-4 feels different and a lot less slappy.
I've been using my OM-1 a lot recently (I've been doing a photo a day project this year, and for the last few weeks my OM-1 has been my primary camera) and I love it.
Even it's big slappy, flappy mirror and oscillating meter needle.
If the truth be told, I like the mirror slap of the OM-1.
You can't have everything instead of lusting after more and more cameras you should learn to make better pictures with the equipment you have. Photography Isn't a problem to be solved by throwing money at it.
Nice story, sorry to hear it got stolen. I was at a beach in southern California one day taking pictures with an expensive camera. After I used all the film, I put it down by the towels in a bag, walked to the edge of the surf, took off my sandals and waded with the kids...I bought one new whenever it was they came out, and a couple of months later it developed a fault with the meter. Still under guarantee I took it back to the shop, and John asked if I wanted to exchange it for a new one, so I said Yes. He took the bottom plate of mine and got a new one off the shelf, took the plate of that. He gave me the new body to attach my plate on to and he put the new plate on my old faulty body, packed it all up and sent it back to Olympus for replacement! Since then I've been a bit suspicious of serial numbers on bottom plates. I loved the idea that it was,according to Olympus, hand built.....but when you see stuff on youtube about older cameras, they all seem to be put together by hand!
Some few months later, just as I was beginning to really like using it, it was stolen! Now I have a few Nikon F cameras, which I figure are too heavy to be stolen quite so easily.
Then your OM-1 must be defective.
Maitani designed a new method of dampening the mirror using an air dampener.
The entire camera was designed to be a lot more silent and smoother than the existent models. And the mirror slap is a lot better than any other camera of the time.
From:http://olympus.dementix.org/eSIF/om-sif/concepts.htm´
..... put the clockwork mechanism below the mirror box so it was better shielded/etc etc.
CC: In the OM series, the shutter speed dial is set up as a ring on the camera mount. I don't think this was linked to the effort to make the camera smaller, so how did it come about?
YM: If you look at the camera's interior structure, the area around the film advance lever is crammed with parts. Choosing the shutter speed, advancing the film, pressing the shutter button, the main functions are concentrated here. It's like the camera's capital city. To improve this situation, I thought about redistributing some functions, rather like relocating some functions of the capital city to outside Tokyo has been discussed. The space under the mirror was completely empty: "Good, I'll bring the main functions down here." But the film advance lever and the shutter button can't be shifted, because of the manual film advance. The shutter speed dial is what can be moved, so let's relocate the shutter speed governor under the mirror, I thought. I could see that if we did that, the camera would be smaller, but there was no such camera. The shutter dial ends up on the bottom [laughs]. The mechanics could relocate the governor, but how to control it? Using a lot of gears to move it, the shutter drive is forced back on top. That doesn't make it small. I was baffled. Then I put a big ring around the mount to turn the speed governor underneath. At the beginning, everyone around me said I was crazy [laughs]. In my style of photography, while supporting the lens you can focus, check the depth of field, and change the shutter speed. That's quite an improvement I think.
From:http://olympus.dementix.org/eSIF/om-sif/concepts.htm
Maitani himself:
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