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Free thread needing a bump. That's something. 
Sent from Tap-a-talk
Sent from Tap-a-talk
Omega D II 4x5 Enlarger PICK ONLY IN MINNEAPOLIS, MN
Omega D II 4x5 Enlarger
I have an Omega D II enlarger that's free for the taking. I picked this up to pull some parts, but realized that with a little bit of work it could be functional. I fixed a few things but have decided that I'm not going to take it any further. I'd like to pass it on to someone who could use it.
The enlarger is quite dirty, and paint has flaked off in various spots.
All of the functions work with the exception of the list below, but a good cleaning and lubrication will make them work smoother.
The bulb socket is not standard but works fine.
The good:
Bellows are light tight.
Column is sturdy on the baseboard. Baseboard might need to eventually be replaced though it looks like it may have gotten wet at some point.
Adjustment screws for negative stage are all turnable, but a little chewed up.
Condenser lifter arm works (one screw/pivot replaced).
Enlarger head moves up and down, and both coil springs work (one is a little bent).
The bad:
Column lock for head height adjustment not functioning and missing a part. Head moves snugly on the column though and doesn't fall on it's own. Fixing the lock or a simple hand clamp would lock it down tight.
Both condenser lenses have a chip on the edge about the size of a dime. Would most likely show up in a 4x5 negative, but probably not in a medium format or 35mm negative. I put a little black marker on the chips, but paint would be better.
The lens board screws are a little loose in their threads and one is slightly bent, but work as they are supposed to.
Comes with
Vivitar 75mm/f3.5 lens (fogged and scratched)
homemade lensboard
75w enlarger bulb (working)
Does not include any negative holders, lenses, or any other items other than what's pictured.
I will not part this out, must take the whole thing.
Due to size and weight, local pick up only in Crystal, MN (Minneapolis suburb).
PM if interested. Thanks!
Omega D II 4x5 Enlarger
I have an Omega D II enlarger that's free for the taking. I picked this up to pull some parts, but realized that with a little bit of work it could be functional. I fixed a few things but have decided that I'm not going to take it any further. I'd like to pass it on to someone who could use it.
The enlarger is quite dirty, and paint has flaked off in various spots.
All of the functions work with the exception of the list below, but a good cleaning and lubrication will make them work smoother.
The bulb socket is not standard but works fine.
The good:
Bellows are light tight.
Column is sturdy on the baseboard. Baseboard might need to eventually be replaced though it looks like it may have gotten wet at some point.
Adjustment screws for negative stage are all turnable, but a little chewed up.
Condenser lifter arm works (one screw/pivot replaced).
Enlarger head moves up and down, and both coil springs work (one is a little bent).
The bad:
Column lock for head height adjustment not functioning and missing a part. Head moves snugly on the column though and doesn't fall on it's own. Fixing the lock or a simple hand clamp would lock it down tight.
Both condenser lenses have a chip on the edge about the size of a dime. Would most likely show up in a 4x5 negative, but probably not in a medium format or 35mm negative. I put a little black marker on the chips, but paint would be better.
The lens board screws are a little loose in their threads and one is slightly bent, but work as they are supposed to.
Comes with
Vivitar 75mm/f3.5 lens (fogged and scratched)
homemade lensboard
75w enlarger bulb (working)
Does not include any negative holders, lenses, or any other items other than what's pictured.
I will not part this out, must take the whole thing.
Due to size and weight, local pick up only in Crystal, MN (Minneapolis suburb).
PM if interested. Thanks!
That is very nice of you. Some one will get themselves a nice enlarger with a little bit of work.
Ok this is a weird one...
So I bought a few packs of Polaroid film from Impossible Project, it was old stock "Paul Giambarba Edition" type 100 Sepia film with an ISO of 1500.
I had two packs, the first one I shot, and I was using a strobe at the time, I shot all 10 sheets in succession very fast, as a fun set for a modeling shoot, only to discover that the ISO wasn't 150 but actually 1500... DOH!
Anyway, the second pack I loaded, and then went to pull the tabs after the first shot and the tab broke, I then try to fiddle with it in the dark and get to the next piece, loaded up again, shot a shot and then went to pull the tab, and again the tab broke, apparently this was poorly designed and when I ripped it all apart after frustration, I saw that the staple that holds all of the pieces in place, must have been just too tight or something, and wasn't releasing the film and it put too much pressure on these pulltabs.
ANYWAY as far as I know, Polaroid paper is just like normal print paper and once is exposed to light then that's it, if that's of course different please let me know, but in any event, the chemistry is very unique and not really attainable anymore and I know some people just like to fiddle, so I saved the packets of developer that were not popped, and I'm offering them to anyone who's interested in playing around. The garbagemen doesn't come for another week, so the paper is in the garbage but can be pulled out if for some reason this is special paper and doesn't react to light, but instead reacts to the negative and the chemistry somehow, let me know and I'll send both.
Otherwise if anybody is interested in just a few packets I have, I will mail them off to you in an envelope (CONUS).
If not they will also go to the trashmen...
So I bought a few packs of Polaroid film from Impossible Project, it was old stock "Paul Giambarba Edition" type 100 Sepia film with an ISO of 1500.
I had two packs, the first one I shot, and I was using a strobe at the time, I shot all 10 sheets in succession very fast, as a fun set for a modeling shoot, only to discover that the ISO wasn't 150 but actually 1500... DOH!
Anyway, the second pack I loaded, and then went to pull the tabs after the first shot and the tab broke, I then try to fiddle with it in the dark and get to the next piece, loaded up again, shot a shot and then went to pull the tab, and again the tab broke, apparently this was poorly designed and when I ripped it all apart after frustration, I saw that the staple that holds all of the pieces in place, must have been just too tight or something, and wasn't releasing the film and it put too much pressure on these pulltabs.
ANYWAY as far as I know, Polaroid paper is just like normal print paper and once is exposed to light then that's it, if that's of course different please let me know, but in any event, the chemistry is very unique and not really attainable anymore and I know some people just like to fiddle, so I saved the packets of developer that were not popped, and I'm offering them to anyone who's interested in playing around. The garbagemen doesn't come for another week, so the paper is in the garbage but can be pulled out if for some reason this is special paper and doesn't react to light, but instead reacts to the negative and the chemistry somehow, let me know and I'll send both.
Otherwise if anybody is interested in just a few packets I have, I will mail them off to you in an envelope (CONUS).
If not they will also go to the trashmen...
Oh Boy, squishable chem packets in an envelope. The Post office people are gonna love that.
Lol! I was planning to secure them appropriately, lol,
It's only because they are a sepia color packet, totally specialized, that I thought these would be of any interest to anyone and worth the bother, just trying to share, I know it's not much but it's all I got lol
Tamron 28-80 SP (parts/repair)
Tamron 28-80 SP f/3.5-4.2 Macro two-ring zoom. Cosmetics good, glass very good, focus smooth. But zoom is rough/sticky. Usable, but barely, so consider this for parts or repair. No caps, no mount.
Tamron 28-80 SP f/3.5-4.2 Macro two-ring zoom. Cosmetics good, glass very good, focus smooth. But zoom is rough/sticky. Usable, but barely, so consider this for parts or repair. No caps, no mount.
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- Sep 27, 2012
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Mamiya RZ67 6x7 220 back for parts/repair.
The winding mechanism sometimes fails to get engaged, meaning you sometimes have to remove the back from the body and manually wind to the next frame. I think it's probably not worth the $ to try to fix this and it appears the previous owner stripped the screws trying to get in. The remaining parts appear to be in good condition so this could be good for parts to fix other backs.
Just pay shipping or give me your UPS account # and it's yours.
The winding mechanism sometimes fails to get engaged, meaning you sometimes have to remove the back from the body and manually wind to the next frame. I think it's probably not worth the $ to try to fix this and it appears the previous owner stripped the screws trying to get in. The remaining parts appear to be in good condition so this could be good for parts to fix other backs.
Just pay shipping or give me your UPS account # and it's yours.
pm sent for mamiya back.
I just hacked up a destroyed kodak 2A Folding Autographic Brownie.
I needed the shutter and element from it.
If anyone needs parts, the metal body is intact (I didn't bend anything).
Some choice parts, the leather handle is intact, the pin that connects the shutter to the body is included, the tripod mounts (2) V/H are intact, the door hinges are intact, but the door locking mechanism is broken (before I got to it).
Autographic hinge door works.
Functioning advance knob (the fold up kind not round so it's easy to grip) though the bearings are a bit squeaky, but not at all seized.
$7 shipping CONUS (USA) priority mail.
(And perhaps $5 donation to APUG suggested but not required).
I needed the shutter and element from it.
If anyone needs parts, the metal body is intact (I didn't bend anything).
Some choice parts, the leather handle is intact, the pin that connects the shutter to the body is included, the tripod mounts (2) V/H are intact, the door hinges are intact, but the door locking mechanism is broken (before I got to it).
Autographic hinge door works.
Functioning advance knob (the fold up kind not round so it's easy to grip) though the bearings are a bit squeaky, but not at all seized.
$7 shipping CONUS (USA) priority mail.
(And perhaps $5 donation to APUG suggested but not required).
Hey Stone,
You know you're holding a perfect pinhole camera body for the new MSA, right?
Bert from Holland
You know you're holding a perfect pinhole camera body for the new MSA, right?
Bert from Holland
Well, no, lol, the lens I hacked off is for the MSA. The bellows don't hold any light... Especially with the gaping hole, I suppose I could duct tape it haha, but then I need to find 116 film, and accurately expose it (which is old). So... Not so sure about that one. If it were summer and I had lots of things to shoot with texture maybe, but it's nothing but white outside...
I'll think about it but probably too much effort for me, I spent a good 2-3 hours with the lens job
Keep it very simple for the MSA:
Some cardboard as a lensboard with aluminum foil with a pinhole as a "lens" in the middle.
You can also cut a square out of a cola can, make a pinhole and use some tape as a shutter.
And off course duct tape to put it all together. Shouldn't take more than 30 minutes to put it together.
Instead of 116 film you can use photo paper cut to size as paper sheet film.
The paper negatives can be scanned or just contact printed as well.
I'll promise you: it will be fun and you'll get some astounding images you never expected.
Just give it a try.
Bert from Holland
Some cardboard as a lensboard with aluminum foil with a pinhole as a "lens" in the middle.
You can also cut a square out of a cola can, make a pinhole and use some tape as a shutter.
And off course duct tape to put it all together. Shouldn't take more than 30 minutes to put it together.
Instead of 116 film you can use photo paper cut to size as paper sheet film.
The paper negatives can be scanned or just contact printed as well.
I'll promise you: it will be fun and you'll get some astounding images you never expected.
Just give it a try.
Bert from Holland
None of that is simple without a darkroom, I'm not going to buy new materials or film I don't own just for the MSA just like others won't go buying Holgas just for the MSA, but I will reuse unloved stuff, we'll see, I have some old 116 film that was cheap that needs shooting. Just that I don't think it's wise to combine an already unfamiliar process (pinhole) with film that is ancient and is probably at this point an ASA of about .75 or 3... That's like a 6 hour daylight exposure haha. (And again, snow, so nothing but white outside).
Sorry OP for the chatter, developing a sheet for you today.
Just pay shipping for pictured items:
2x3 Kodak Super XX film (25 sheets) expired in 60s, box is sealed
126 format film, still in wrapper, forgot when it expired but it's a long time ago
Kodak 35mm film canisters with "NEG OK" written on all of them
Telesar 35mm bulk loader
Kodak Wratten filters
Please take at least a couple (if not all) to save me time at the post office.
2x3 Kodak Super XX film (25 sheets) expired in 60s, box is sealed
126 format film, still in wrapper, forgot when it expired but it's a long time ago
Kodak 35mm film canisters with "NEG OK" written on all of them
Telesar 35mm bulk loader
Kodak Wratten filters
Please take at least a couple (if not all) to save me time at the post office.
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Just FYI the triple print is C-22 or similar film, not C-41
The 126 film... The brand is "Triple Print" I have a few in 126 and 127 myself and took me a while to track down what it was. On the label it says "can only be processed at X lab" so wanted to know why it couldn't be processed anywhere, well it's because it is a C-22 variant and isn't C-41 compatible for processing.
Yeah, C22 was the earlier process but why do you think it's "triple print" brand not Kodak/Agfa/Fuji etc.?
MattKing
Moderator
The picture shows a box labelled "Triple Print"
What Matt said, and I did research last year to figure out what tripple print (just the 126 is tripple print) was a version of C-22. This is here say since I never processed mine, the 127 I tried in B&W but testing showed it was about an EI of 3, which wasn't really very useful.
I still have the 2 packs of 126, no one wants it.
I'm going to sell it on eBay I think.
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