It should be fine and it wouldn't hurt to try it out with some bracketing and 715nm filter or a tad darker. Don't filter with anything below ~700nm as the red will easily overpower any NIR response.
I have shot plenty of today available NIR sensitive films with 715 and 720nm filters. Sensitivity of current NIR films is only up to ~750nm and they're often Agfa Aviphot Pan 80 and 200 derivatives. So with these modern "IR" films avoid using a filter beyond this 750nm specification or you'll end up being out of spec and risk recording little to no image data.
In the case of Efke 820 you can easily go for denser filters and this will dictate compensation needed to record NIR image. But again - stay within the bounds of film sensitivity or risk a dud.
My experience is only with current NIR sensitive films:
Aviphot 80:
- Adox HR-50 / Scala 50 - same film and is the best offering of Aviphot 80 due to improved shadow rendering
- Rollei Retro 80S
- Astrum FN64
Aviphot 200:
- Astrum Foto 100
- Astrum Foto 200
- Rollei Superpan 200
- Rollei Infrared 400
- Rollei Retro 400S
With all of these my approach is:
1) frame and meter the scene as usual 2) put 715nm filter on and 3) and apply the following compensation for my 715nm Slides
looking to keep highlights in-check:
2 to 3 stop bracketing in sunny weather
3 to 4 stops in overcast
4 to 6 stops indoors
Examples (again - aim was to keep highlights in-check as overblown highlights in Slides look ugly)
For good negatives however - Ilford
quotes +4 stops with "very deep-red" filter (89B) - that's about 695nm, so 715nm filter would require an additional stop I guess. In the examples
@MattKing posted the best exposure to me is +9 stops, but in my testing SFX 200 is less sensitive to NIR than Aviphot. And sensitivity of Efke 820 goes well beyond 750nm and that will produce more Wood/Moonscapes. Sadly - haven't shot any of ye old IR films...
TLDR:
1) Compensate 1 stop for age, then
2) begin with +4 additional stops for IR and
3) Bracket by erring on the side of overexposure. Say +4 is default with 695nm filter, then do +6 and +8 or something along these lines.
4) Up to 750nm is fine without focus adjustment, but with Efke you might want to take that red dot (or line, or a curve in case of Zooms) on the lens into consideration
YMMV - you can always cut roll in half and have two development sessions with different times to increase your chances, as the result from 1st half will tell if you need to push or pull some.