My spoon recipe for D-72
Water at 110°F ------------------- 750ml
(pinch of sodium sulfite added first to help the Metol dissolve)
Metol -------------------------------- 1/3 tsp (just estimate - if you've got a 1/4 tsp measure then that heaping)
Sodium sulfite -------------------- 4 tsp (1 Tbsp + 1 tsp is easiest; 1 Tbsp = 3 tsp)
Hydroquinone -------------------- 1 1/2 tsp light (i.e., just a smidge less; really doesn't matter)
Sodium carbonate, mono. --- 1 1/2 Tbsp
Potassium bromide ------------ 1/8 tsp
Water to make ------------------ 1 liter
I usually double this and make 2 liters of working solution at a time.
There's lots of leeway in D-72. You can vary the proportions by quite a bit and still have a great print developer. If you want more active, add a bit more carbonate. I'll often at BTA to this as well during printing to clear whites a bit if I need. As long as you are relatively consistent, you'll have a developer that mixes easily and acts the same every time. I've got balance beam scales and digital scales for more precise things, but I don't need them for mixing D-72 or ID-62.
Hope this helps,
Doremus
My spoon recipe for D-72
Water at 110°F ------------------- 750ml
(pinch of sodium sulfite added first to help the Metol dissolve)
Metol -------------------------------- 1/3 tsp (just estimate - if you've got a 1/4 tsp measure then that heaping)
Sodium sulfite -------------------- 4 tsp (1 Tbsp + 1 tsp is easiest; 1 Tbsp = 3 tsp)
Hydroquinone -------------------- 1 1/2 tsp light (i.e., just a smidge less; really doesn't matter)
Sodium carbonate, mono. --- 1 1/2 Tbsp
Potassium bromide ------------ 1/8 tsp
Water to make ------------------ 1 liter
I usually double this and make 2 liters of working solution at a time.
There's lots of leeway in D-72. You can vary the proportions by quite a bit and still have a great print developer. If you want more active, add a bit more carbonate. I'll often at BTA to this as well during printing to clear whites a bit if I need. As long as you are relatively consistent, you'll have a developer that mixes easily and acts the same every time. I've got balance beam scales and digital scales for more precise things, but I don't need them for mixing D-72 or ID-62.
Hope this helps,
Doremus
That isn't even remotely close to the formula I come up with using the Darkroom Cookbook and its weight to volume conversions. Is this a working solution? I should have clarified that mine was for stock, to be mixed 1:2 or as you prefer
I think I see what you did now, except for the sulfite. This is presumably to directly make a 1:2 working solution, not a stock solution. The numbers work out a lot more well rounded than they do for a liter of stock. But why so much sulfite? That's more than half the sulfite of the stock solution, for what is essentially a 1/3 strength solution.
... (As an afterthought) Doremus, have you ever worked with Kodak DK60a? A few friends still use it, and say if mixed with a little care, it's the closest thing to Kodak's HC-110 for mid tones. I'm still on my last stocks of HC-110 concentrate and I was a Thornton's Two Bath developer fan (some would say fanatic) for a long time, but DK60a was my preferred film brew in Canada back in the 1960s and I'm thinking about returning to it for nostalgia's sake - how will it work with 21st century T-grain films?
I used the Report Post function to draw the moderator's attention to your request.Too bad my quoted formula in subsequent messages can't be corrected... Moderators? Those that quoted me?
I've never used DK60a. I switched from D-76 and HC-110 to PMK years ago and have never looked back, so I don't know how it'll work with modern films. The formula is similar enough to D-76 with added Kodalk that I believe it should work similarly, but have more activity than regular D-76.
Doremus
My spoon recipe for D-72
Water at 110°F ------------------- 750ml
(pinch of sodium sulfite added first to help the Metol dissolve)
Metol -------------------------------- 1/3 tsp (just estimate - if you've got a 1/4 tsp measure then that heaping)
Sodium sulfite -------------------- 2 tsp (Note: this is an edit and correction as per Wayne's post below*)
Hydroquinone -------------------- 1 1/2 tsp light (i.e., just a smidge less; really doesn't matter)
Sodium carbonate, mono. --- 1 1/2 Tbsp
Potassium bromide ------------ 1/8 tsp
Water to make ------------------ 1 liter
There's lots of leeway in D-72. You can vary the proportions by quite a bit and still have a great print developer. I've got balance beam scales and digital scales for more precise things, but I don't need them for mixing D-72 or ID-62.
Doremus
That isn't even remotely close to the formula I come up with using the Darkroom Cookbook and its weight to volume conversions. Is this a working solution? I should have clarified that mine was for stock, to be mixed 1:2 or as you prefer
So, then to come full circle, anyone mixing all the powders together in a jar and making the working solution from a single scoop of powder?
What sense does it make to add the water before it is time to use it?
With respect to a powder that has been mixed by others, it makes it easier to obtain uniform results, and it is a bit easier to accurately measure partial quantities.What sense does it make to add the water before it is time to use it?
I put all sorts of powers together in a container that I use a coffee scoop to scoop out. its black as soot and mixes OK. I've had it in a container for IDK 2 years? works about the same as it did the day I mixed it.. I give the container a big shake before I scoop anything out.So, then to come full circle, anyone mixing all the powders together in a jar and making the working solution from a single scoop of powder?
I have gone through two bags of Dektol with this technique so far. No issues at this time.
Yes indeed.I would be hesitant to do this with a powdered film developer (e.g., D-76) since repeatability and precision are much more important in that context (unless, of course, you develop by inspection).
Best,
Doremus
Upon reading the formulas of various paper developers, I read on one that changing the amount of Potassium bromide would allow one to slightly change print color. It might apply to just that formula, but it seems that a chemical that is in the amount of 2 gm/liter (compared to about 140 grams of other chemicals that would go into that liter) would be very difficult to spread so little evenly in big mix.Dektol is fairly forgiving; even if you don't get a completely homogeneous mix of powders when you scoop, you're still likely to have a print developer that will work just fine. ...
Doremus
... I read on one that changing the amount of Potassium bromide would allow one to slightly change print color. It might apply to just that formula, but it seems that a chemical that is in the amount of 2 gm/liter (compared to about 140 grams of other chemicals that would go into that liter) would be very difficult to spread so little evenly in big mix.
Granted, any color change would be minor and could be masked by toning, but if one had a series of high-key images on the wall, for example, a slight color shift might be noticeable.
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