Not Recommended...But I'm Trying It...

[mshchem]

Check Adox website they have a milling and sieving operation, followed by a powder homogenizer (fancy name for a mixer) after everything is blended it's bagged.

 

[tezzasmall]

...I had everything I need to mix its equivalent, D-72. You might consider that and if you use a lot you'll save a lot, since you are willing to work with powdered chems anyway.

I too would give a thumbs up, for mixing your own D72, being very similar to Dektol I've read many times.

It's very easy to measure (teaspoon formulas are easily found and work great) and it has a good life, in both working solution at 1+2, and in stock strength.

I initially tried it when I ran out of Ilford MG developer, but I'll definitely be thinking about going across to using this full time when the MG runs out.

Terry S

 

[ic-racer]

Ideal for my darkroom workflow would be a long-lasting stock solution of print developer. In terms of negative development, I changed to T-max developer in the 1980s and can say I have never thrown out a drop of stock solution. Even when going almost a year between negative processing sessions.

 

[koraks]

I usually mix up some ID78 or ID62; something like 500ml concentrated stock at a time. I then replenish a bottle of working solution with it (typically also 500ml or so), and the whole arrangement tends to last me 6-9 months before I get through it. No single drop is wasted, and it's a very flexible approach in the sense that it allows for experimentation/variation with small amounts of developer if I want something else.

 

[Wayne]

Ideal for my darkroom workflow would be a long-lasting stock solution of print developer. In terms of negative development, I changed to T-max developer in the 1980s and can say I have never thrown out a drop of stock solution. Even when going almost a year between negative processing sessions.

Ansco 130 will last a couple years.

 

[C-130 Nav]

I mixed my current batch (1 gal) of Dektol in May 2019 using distilled water. I placed it in brown glass quart bottles with polypropylene-sealed caps with almost no air above the liquid. Thus far, I haven't lost a single bottle to oxidation. I've run through about half the stock and every bottle comes out clear (initially) and turns "weak iced tea" color when exhausted (about 20 8x10 prints) as it normally should. Bottles are stored in the dark at about 65 degrees (maybe a little less in the winter). I've seen no degradation of the Dektol performance when I open a fresh bottle. I still get the image to appear in the first 15 secs and maximum black around 90 seconds using Ilford Multigrade RC paper. Performance throughout the bottle is normal with no dramatic fall-off or unexpected changes. Sludge only starts to appear near the bottle's end-of-life.

I can't say how long this will last but based on everyone's experience, oxidation has to be the main factor. I can only assume that the seal on these bottles is sufficiently airtight for me to exceed the stated life expectancy.

I obtained my bottles from www.homesciencetools.com:
https://www.homesciencetools.com/product/bottle-1000ml-amber-glass-boston-round/

They are running about $6 a bottle but they are reusable (if you don't drop them) and if it's saving me a pack of Dektol every 6 months, I've already paid them off.

Obviously, I can't guarantee these results but here's what's working for me if anyone's interested.

 

[pentaxuser]

I do wonder if it being risky mixing Dektol in small batches is one of these "Yes in theory but really OK in practice if done with care.

Bumble bee says in the morning : "It's time to set off again for nectar" Ant replies : "With your weight and size of your wings, its risky in theory" Bee smiles and thinks: He's been saying that to me for last 50 years and here I am still buzzing to the wide blue yonder every day "

pentaxuser

 

[Doremus Scudder]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned D-72 yet.

It's about the easiest print developer to mix from scratch. Once the component chemicals are bought (Metol, hydroquinone, sodium sulfite, sodium carbonate and potassium bromide), you can mix however much you need on the spot. No waste at all. Plus, I think it lasts as long as Liquidol (which I don't like that much... I've got staining from it).

In a few sessions, you'll have hit the break-even point on the initial investment and be saving money. And, with KA's questionable quality control these days, you'll be assured of a fresh and fully-active developer every time you mix.

I mix mine with spoon measures; takes 5 minutes, tops and is EZPZ.

I like ID-62 even better, but you need BTA in solution for that and phenidone; a tad bit more complicated to mix. D-72 takes the cake for ease of use.

And, it is, for all intents and purposes, Dektol. Commercial Dektol has sequestering agents and coatings, etc., so it can be packaged in one bag. Performance is the same.

Best,

Doremus

 

[Fraunhofer]

Ansco 130 will last a couple years.

Yes, to that. Even at working strength it lasts 6 months, no problem. Turns quite dark (like tea) but still works.

 

[ic-racer]

I mixed my current batch (1 gal) of Dektol in May 2019 using distilled water. I placed it in brown glass quart bottles .

Correct me if I'm not reading this correctly, but it appears you are splitting the stock solution between multiple bottles, keeping the bottles sealed until needed. Seems brilliant.

 

[Wayne]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned D-72 yet.
Doremus

I did.

 

[Vaughn]

Correct me if I'm not reading this correctly, but it appears you are splitting the stock solution between multiple bottles, keeping the bottles sealed until needed. Seems brilliant.

Use marbles to replace any developer used to keep the bottles full. Or wine preserver (a heavier-than-air gas...forms barrier between developer and oxygen) in partially full containers.

 

[removed account4]

I bought a bag of Dektol last week and returned it today. It would have cost me $13 for a gallon, but I realized I had everything I need to mix its equivalent, D-72. You might consider that and if you use a lot you'll save a lot, since you are willing to work with powdered chems anyway.

Yea .. I bought some dektol within the past year from someone and it looked like chocolate milk, I'll never use store bought again, like you I'll mix my own cause its pretty easy. .. I wish I didn't need a scale though and could just figure out how many teaspoons it required, and for processing film it doesn't need to be like 72ºF like ansco130 and can be used the same dilution ( 1: time) for (time) minutes ( like 1:6 / 6 mins, 1:10 / 10 mins &c ). only down side of d72 is it doesn't last as long as ansco 130, the gigantic shelf life is reason alone to buy glycin and mix a few liters . I enjoy the fizzzzzzz when i mix it, kind of fun.

 

[Wayne]

Yea .. I bought some dektol within the past year from someone and it looked like chocolate milk, I'll never use store bought again, like you I'll mix my own cause its pretty easy. .. I wish I didn't need a scale though and could just figure out how many teaspoons it required, and for processing film it doesn't need to be like 72ºF like ansco130 and can be used the same dilution ( 1: time) for (time) minutes ( like 1:6 / 6 mins, 1:10 / 10 mins &c ). only down side of d72 is it doesn't last as long as ansco 130, the gigantic shelf life is reason alone to buy glycin and mix a few liters . I enjoy the fizzzzzzz when i mix it, kind of fun.

D-72 by volume measures
Water 125F 750 ml
Metol .85 t
ss anhy 5.9 t
hq 4 t
naco mono 13.3 t anhydrous 17 t
kbr you need 2 grams and 1/4 t is 1.6 g. Much much better to have a 10% solution handy and use 20 ml, it lasts for years.
water to make 1 liter

Someone better check my math, I've not finished my first cup of coffee yet...

 

[C-130 Nav]

Correct me if I'm not reading this correctly, but it appears you are splitting the stock solution between multiple bottles, keeping the bottles sealed until needed. Seems brilliant.

Correct. When I mix my Dektol, three quarts are stock solution separated into three 1-quart bottles with nearly no air. The remaining 1 quart of stock is then diluted to make the 1:2 working solution which takes up a total of 3 more 1-quart bottles. Two of these working solution bottles are topped up with nearly no air. The last bottle (which likely has a larger volume of air) is the first bottle I use.

Therefore, 1 gallon of Dektol is divided amongst 6 1-quart bottles. After I consume the 3-quarts of working solution, I use another stock bottle, repeat the working solution dilution and store those into 3 1-quart bottles. The stock solution bottles remain untouched/unopened until I need the next batch of working solution.

 

[removed account4]

D-72 by volume measures
Water 125F 750 ml
Metol .85 t
ss anhy 5.9 t
hq 4 t
naco mono 13.3 t anhydrous 17 t
kbr you need 2 grams and 1/4 t is 1.6 g. Much much better to have a 10% solution handy and use 20 ml, it lasts for years.
water to make 1 liter

Someone better check my math, I've not finished my first cup of coffee yet...

excellent !

 

[esearing]

Curious if you could mix a stock solution at 2 or 3 x strength (less water) then dilute it for use later as needed? I have done that with Ansco130 and gotten 2 years out of it so far and still a light tea color.

 

[Wayne]

Curious if you could mix a stock solution at 2 or 3 x strength (less water) then dilute it for use later as needed? I have done that with Ansco130 and gotten 2 years out of it so far and still a light tea color.

Don't know. Obviously there are limits to solubility and I think that would be pushing it. But what does that save you, except a small amount of bottle space?

 

[Donald Qualls]

I've mixed Dektol from the commercial 5 gallon package (expired bag, and this was 2005) at double strength; in 120F distilled water it dissolved okay (took a lot of stirring, but it cleared). It was a little darker than normal -- but this past April I opened one of the pickle jars I had the solution stored in, and it still worked at Massive Dev Chart times for film.

That's fifteen years in sealed glass jars. Stored in a shed, temperature ranging from near zero F to over 100F (didn't freeze, either, seemingly, else it would have broken the jars). The double strength stock is as dark as weak coffee, but it still works.

 

[Wayne]

I've mixed Dektol from the commercial 5 gallon package (expired bag, and this was 2005) at double strength; in 120F distilled water it dissolved okay (took a lot of stirring, but it cleared). It was a little darker than normal -- but this past April I opened one of the pickle jars I had the solution stored in, and it still worked at Massive Dev Chart times for film.

That's fifteen years in sealed glass jars. Stored in a shed, temperature ranging from near zero F to over 100F (didn't freeze, either, seemingly, else it would have broken the jars). The double strength stock is as dark as weak coffee, but it still works.

This suggests that 3x is probably a no go.

 

[ic-racer]

I just calculated my measuring spoons capacities and I'll be trying this out tonight with a printing session.
My most common batch I used to make was 1000ml but there is no easy way to get that with these sophisticated Avoirdupois devices available from the wife's kitchen...

 

[Donald Qualls]

This suggests that 3x is probably a no go.

I'd have to agree -- but 2x keeps a long time in sealed containers, and is easy to recalculate dilution for.

 

[koraks]

Curious if you could mix a stock solution at 2 or 3 x strength (less water) then dilute it for use later as needed?

Not a problem. To go further you'd need to change from sodium carbonate to potassium carbonate. You'll run into solubility problems somewhere between 5 and 10% hydroquinone (I think around 6% if memory serves) which you can stretch a bit (but not much) by adding some ethanol. Propylene glycol may also do the trick.

 

[Doremus Scudder]

My spoon recipe for D-72

Water at 110°F ------------------- 750ml
(pinch of sodium sulfite added first to help the Metol dissolve)
Metol -------------------------------- 1/3 tsp (just estimate - if you've got a 1/4 tsp measure then that heaping)
Sodium sulfite -------------------- 2 tsp (Note: this is an edit and correction as per Wayne's post below*)
Hydroquinone -------------------- 1 1/2 tsp light (i.e., just a smidge less; really doesn't matter)
Sodium carbonate, mono. --- 1 1/2 Tbsp
Potassium bromide ------------ 1/8 tsp
Water to make ------------------ 1 liter

*Sorry for any confusion! I neglected to halve the amount from my 2-liter recipe. Thanks for catching this, Wayne.

I usually double this and make 2 liters of working solution at a time.

There's lots of leeway in D-72. You can vary the proportions by quite a bit and still have a great print developer. If you want more active, add a bit more carbonate. I'll often at BTA to this as well during printing to clear whites a bit if I need. As long as you are relatively consistent, you'll have a developer that mixes easily and acts the same every time. I've got balance beam scales and digital scales for more precise things, but I don't need them for mixing D-72 or ID-62.

Hope this helps,

Doremus

 

[Wayne]

My spoon recipe for D-72

Water at 110°F ------------------- 750ml
(pinch of sodium sulfite added first to help the Metol dissolve)
Metol -------------------------------- 1/3 tsp (just estimate - if you've got a 1/4 tsp measure then that heaping)
Sodium sulfite -------------------- 4 tsp (1 Tbsp + 1 tsp is easiest; 1 Tbsp = 3 tsp)
Hydroquinone -------------------- 1 1/2 tsp light (i.e., just a smidge less; really doesn't matter)
Sodium carbonate, mono. --- 1 1/2 Tbsp
Potassium bromide ------------ 1/8 tsp
Water to make ------------------ 1 liter

I usually double this and make 2 liters of working solution at a time.

There's lots of leeway in D-72. You can vary the proportions by quite a bit and still have a great print developer. If you want more active, add a bit more carbonate. I'll often at BTA to this as well during printing to clear whites a bit if I need. As long as you are relatively consistent, you'll have a developer that mixes easily and acts the same every time. I've got balance beam scales and digital scales for more precise things, but I don't need them for mixing D-72 or ID-62.

Hope this helps,

Doremus

That isn't even remotely close to the formula I come up with using the Darkroom Cookbook and its weight to volume conversions. Is this a working solution? I should have clarified that mine was for stock, to be mixed 1:2 or as you prefer