Not fixed or not developed well?

[Tarniu]

Hi,

I'm beginner in darkroom. I have problem (look at the photos): https://plus.google.com/photos/1049...s/6125836105437982801?authkey=CJjGyKCg1taTzQE

What's that? Not fixed part of negative film or not developed well? Or maybe not washed well? I saw this some time (months) after develop. What to do?

 

[removedacct1]

Bad link, no image.

 

[gzinsel]

viewing the negatives, it looks to me that your film "stuck together" at the magenta area. I believe you should pre soak in H2O- then fix and hypo clear, and wash your problem strip. It does seem from the images you sent, that the "negative image" was effected. so . . . . .

 

[Tarniu]

Try now.

 

[Tarniu]

@gzinsel thank you, but should I soak it, fix, clear and wash again or leave it now and pre soak in every next time? Is that dangerous for negative if I'll leave that?

 

[MattKing]

@gzinsel thank you, but should I soak it, fix, clear and wash again or leave it now and pre soak in every next time? Is that dangerous for negative if I'll leave that?

It is a good idea to remove the grey/magenta areas that are left on the edge. They consist of film emulsion that has not been fixed, and probably has not been developed, and they are not as stable as fully developed, fixed and washed film.

Most likely they occurred because your reel was either damp or contaminated or both when you loaded the film, and the film stuck to it.

 

[mnemosyne]

there was an error in the fixing stage (not enough liquid to cover the reels, film sticking to reels etc.), but it can be recitfied. Refix, then rewash and you will be fine. The development part looks good as far as can be judged from the pics.

 

[Silver key]

Hullo !
I have not seen your negatives (i think your link is dead) but if you have magenta areas, the fixer is your problem, you do not need to presoak nor hypo clear, just soak it another 5-10 min in a fresh fixer solution and you should be fine.
Btw pre-soaking and hypo clear aren't that important and to be honest i think it's just like the stop bath ; a big waste of polluating chemicals if you're not develloping a batch of 100 rolls. Just my 2 cents.

 

[MartinP]

The 'odd' areas are, like most people are pointing out, due to the fixer not reaching the areas affected. This is a little bit odd as the developer has clearly managed to reach the area of the emulsion that is 'odd' because the text and frame numbers are developed. The printing is done with a light based system at the time of manufacture, so perhaps the film simply takes a lot more 'fixing' than it does 'developing'.

Usually 135 film is loaded on a spiral with the emulsion facing the centre of the reel. The natural springiness of the film-base keeps it resting on the outer 'edge' of the spiral track. Is it possible that you loaded the spiral with the emulsion facing the outside? This would then cause the emulsion to be pushed against the edge of the spiral track and could easily give the result you have seen. If this was not the case, then damp patches on the spiral could have caused the film to 'stick' in those places - with plastic reels that would have made it very difficult to load but with steel reels it would even be possible to have loaded the film, left the reel in the tank to (partially) dry and 'glue' itself to the spiral, and then processed it later!

The way to remove the unfixed emulsion is to fix the roll again, with fixer that is still at a usable level of activity (not some ancient and dirty leftover fixer) and for twice the clearing time in the same way that you would usually. The film should, of course, then be washed in the usual way.

 

[Doremus Scudder]

Definitely unfixed emulsion remaining on the edges of the film. The solutions did not contact this part of the film for some reason. Soak, refix and wash.

Doremus

 

[Sirius Glass]

Presoaking is not the answer. The film needs more time in the fixer [hypo]. If the film is not fixed, the remaining film residue will cause the negatives to fade.