Norma Tripod Head Help

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otto.f

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Do you imply that it’s not only for studio but also for landscape/architecture or outdoor portraits?
 

CreationBear

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That's a great system--I'm usually banging around outdoors with mine and working out of a backpack, so I might have slightly different needs than you, but I've found that the Sinar pan/tilt head really works for my purposes. FWIW, I keep the rail clamp, the head, and the top plate of my Induro 3-series tripod all connected. Since I carry the camera on a modified 6-inch rail with the clamp bushing already installed between the function carriers, set up is pretty quick and easy: 1.) set up tripod and secure the top plate; 2.) add another length of rail section to the front of 6" section and extend the bellows; 3) move the plastic bushing toward the front standard so that the clamp can clear the bellows as it closes, then slide it back down the rail as needed for your focal length before tightening the clamp.

Let me know if you're interested in the modified rail and I will send you a link.
 

bdial

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Wood tripods tend to be a little lighter than equivalent aluminum ones. OTH, I’m really liking the carbon fiber one I bought used a couple of months ago, Even lighter than my wood tripod.
A lighter (tripod) head, might be the difference for you, for example, the Arca P0 ball head weighs just a few ounces, but supports 40 pounds.
 
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Darryl Roberts

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Wood tripods tend to be a little lighter than equivalent aluminum ones. OTH, I’m really liking the carbon fiber one I bought used a couple of months ago, Even lighter than my wood tripod.
A lighter (tripod) head, might be the difference for you, for example, the Arca P0 ball head weighs just a few ounces, but supports 40 pounds.
Thank you
 

138S

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Please recommend a tripod head for my 5x7 Sinar Norma. The Majestic is just too heavy for me.
Thank you

The Norma series is relatively lightweight and many heads will be suitable. As rail is circular a simple head lacking the roll movement is suitable, as you may roll the camera by rotating the rail in its support, this is a great advantage if low weight counts.

More than the particular head you use, the important factor is knowing how the full setup behaves. Regrading that, I would suggest placing a toy laser pointer in the front standard to learn how steady the setup is in different (wind) conditions, it also will tell if you have to wait some seconds since holder insertion until you fire to allow the vibration stop, with the toy laser you will also learn if the camera returns the same direction after the holder insertion which is important critical you play tilt_swing, you also may see that by inserting/removing a holder and checking if the ground glass center points to the same scene spot.

A head may have some flexibility but should have no hysteresys, it should return to the same direction after holder insertion, if not focus is lost, specially with tilt/swing.
 

DREW WILEY

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My approach : No head needed. The rail clamp itself is sufficient. But if I did want a head, it would be the dedicated Sinar one. I went "headless" in the mountains for decades with Sinar cameras, even on steep Class 3 terrain. Just redundant extra weight, problematic unwanted wobble and vibration potential, especially given the strong torque vectors of long rail extensions - and Sinars do excel at long focal length lens usage. For day hike usage, I shoot my Norma atop a Ries mid-weight wooden tripod. For long-haul backpacking, I used an early Gitzo carbon fiber tripod, minus the center column and otherwise modified a bit, and better made than their current equivalent. Alas, now in my 70's, I've resorted to a light Ebony 4x5 folder for long distance backpacking instead of the Sinar system, though the Sinar is more versatile and much faster to use, and I find the Norma the most practical of the series for dependable field use.
 
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Darryl Roberts

Darryl Roberts

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My approach : No head needed. The rail clamp itself is sufficient. But if I did want a head, it would be the dedicated Sinar one. I went "headless" in the mountains for decades with Sinar cameras, even on steep Class 3 terrain. Just redundant extra weight, problematic unwanted wobble and vibration potential, especially given the strong torque vectors of long rail extensions - and Sinars do excel at long focal length lens usage. For day hike usage, I shoot my Norma atop a Ries mid-weight wooden tripod. For long-haul backpacking, I used an early Gitzo carbon fiber tripod, minus the center column and otherwise modified a bit, and better made than their current equivalent. Alas, now in my 70's, I've resorted to a light Ebony 4x5 folder for long distance backpacking instead of the Sinar system, though the Sinar is more versatile and much faster to use, and I find the Norma the most practical of the series for dependable field use.

I concur, I'm looking at a 5x7 Chamonix for more portability. I'll try it without a head. Thank you.
 

TheFlyingCamera

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Cannot find that head.
You're probably going to have to look for a used one on Ebay. They're around, but without a bit of patience on your part, they won't come cheap. Option two that I would recommend would be a Gitzo 12xx low-profile magnesium pan-tilt head. I have one that I use on my carbon fiber Induro legs that supports anything I have that's 8x10 or smaller. I have my Norma on it right now.
 

Lachlan Young

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The Sinar 516.41 (or similar) head is really about as good as it gets for dealing with a Sinar on a tripod etc. The low profile Gitzo 1570M is excellent but occupies a lot more spatial volume. I really like the older Linhof levelling head fitted on the flat top plate on a classic Gitzo series 5 aluminium tripod, but then I don't have to deal with wrestling a monorail level on it...
 

DREW WILEY

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I never have a problem leveling a camera on a tripod without any head involved, even big flatbed view cameras turn-bolted directly a platform top. That's how surveyors did it for decades prior to modern auto-levels and theodolites, and they were routinely expected to do it more accurately than any typical photographic need, often atop remote crags and high altitude summits. My dad began his career in the 1930s as a surveyor for big Federal dam projects, then went on to supervising them. But he kept his old brass transit and maple tripod, and that's what I learned on. After some practice it's intuitive and fast; and you save weight while increasing stability. I do own a couple of good tripod heads, but never use them for large format camera or especially long MF telephoto work.

The only problem with Sinar F and P-style rail clamps per se is that your camera can sometimes tip with the conventional version. There's a more expensive clamp-over-the-top version that's more secure. But I prefer the older Norma rail clamp with its lower profile.
 

Nokton48

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5x7 Norma Ready to Go Norma 165 Sup Ang by Nokton48, on Flickr

Here's my 90% restored 5x7 Sinar Norma. Notice the Norma Tilt Head, it is an integral part of the Norma overall design. In other words it completes the camera.

I bought three more of the Manfrotto legs at the end of the year, they can be found around $100 if you just need the legs.

Also also recently bought a FOBA that sells for $1700 at B&H, I got a very low price for a brand new tripod never used. That works really sweetly on the Norma. It can be infinitely extended with FOBA Combitubes. And surprisingly light in weight. Several levels above Gitzo or Manfrotto
 
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Greg Kriss

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Cannot find that head.

Be patient... Took me a few months to find a Sinar Pan/Tilt head up for auction. I had wanted one in excellent condition, and before I found mine passed over on a few in way lesser condition. Use the head with my 4x5 and 8x10 Normas. "Newer" black ones command higher prices but as far as I. can tell differ little is any from an older Norma series head. I have used one since the late 1970s and it has never let me down nor had to be adjusted... it just always worked and functioned 100%.
 

Nokton48

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The Norma Rail Clamp has two slots in it, which integrate with two spring loaded pins on the Norma Pan/Tilt Head. So in the dark with your eyes closed, if it clicks together tightly, all you need to do is screw it down. You can feel when it is right, If you are in a hurry this can make a difference.

I had a black pan/tilt head and they made some changes for the modern Sinars............ I bought it cheaply but then I sold the black one on. Original Norma is the only way to go in my book :smile:

I bought a couple more of these last year. In decent shape around $200 I could use another.
 
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Darryl Roberts

Darryl Roberts

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The Norma Rail Clamp has two slots in it, which integrate with two spring loaded pins on the Norma Pan/Tilt Head. So in the dark with your eyes closed, if it clicks together tightly, all you need to do is screw it down. You can feel when it is right, If you are in a hurry this can make a difference.

I had a black pan/tilt head and they made some changes for the modern Sinars............ I bought it cheaply but then I sold the black one on. Original Norma is the only way to go in my book :smile:

I bought a couple more of these last year. In decent shape around $200 I could use another.

Thank you. I wish to find one as well.
 
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Darryl Roberts

Darryl Roberts

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5x7 Norma Ready to Go Norma 165 Sup Ang by Nokton48, on Flickr

Here's my 90% restored 5x7 Sinar Norma. Notice the Norma Tilt Head, it is an integral part of the Norma overall design. In other words it completes the camera.

I bought three more of the Manfrotto legs at the end of the year, they can be found around $100 if you just need the legs.

Also also recently bought a FOBA that sells for $1700 at B&H, I got a very low price for a brand new tripod never used. That works really sweetly on the Norma. It can be infinitely extended with FOBA Combitubes. And surprisingly light in weight. Several levels above Gitzo or Manfrotto
 
OP
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Darryl Roberts

Darryl Roberts

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Be patient... Took me a few months to find a Sinar Pan/Tilt head up for auction. I had wanted one in excellent condition, and before I found mine passed over on a few in way lesser condition. Use the head with my 4x5 and 8x10 Normas. "Newer" black ones command higher prices but as far as I. can tell differ little is any from an older Norma series head. I have used one since the late 1970s and it has never let me down nor had to be adjusted... it just always worked and functioned 100%.
 

Alan Gales

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Cannot find that head.

They show up on Photrio, Large Format Photography Forum, KEH and eBay from time to time. You could advertise you are looking for one here on Photrio or Large Format Photography Forum. You just have to keep watching and be patient. I've seen a lot of them sell on eBay.
 
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Darryl Roberts

Darryl Roberts

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They show up on Photrio, Large Format Photography Forum, KEH and eBay from time to time. You could advertise you are looking for one here on Photrio or Large Format Photography Forum. You just have to keep watching and be patient. I've seen a lot of them sell on eBay.
 
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