Noblex 6/150 U

[sanking]

Image made with Noblex 150U. Añisclo Canyon in Ordesa National Park, Pyrenees in Aragón. Ilford XP2 film, one second at f/22.

The actual distance from the far left side of this image to the far right side is about 100 yards. The camera is about two meters from the center tree, which is a very large beech.

Sandy King

 

[europanorama]

I have a previous model with a fixed focus (Docter Optics) lens. The camera has always worked flawlessly and the lens is incredibly sharp and wonderful. I too would be interested in filters, etc.

noblex canada has such lenses. are they still around?

 

[europanorama]

Sandy, FWIW I use a Noblex 135UC, which I've had for a couple of years and it has proved very reliable. The small amount of lens shift I find very useful also the multiple exposure feature.

What can be a little problematic is the mechanics of the slower exposures. For example, for a 1 second shutter exposure the whole process of lens movement takes approx. 1 minute to complete. Not too encouraging for that 'decisive moment'

Like you mine was also a bit of a compulsive purchase but one I can honestly say I've no regrets. Enjoy

the newer or newest model did have a short-rotation-mechanisme. not turning around every time. pls could someone knowing this explain.

 

[europanorama]

Made it out today to test the newly acquired (used) Noblex 6/150 U. I was using ASA 100 film, rated at EI 50, so put the slow time module on the camera, and also exposed with the Panlux meter, which sets the shutter speed after you manually set (and program in) lens aperture.

Good news is that all of the equipment is working perfectly and I made a number of nice well-exposed negatives, with very even tones and no sign of banding. And using the shift was much easier in real time than I anticipated.

Bad news is that I made a bunch of careless mistakes from lack of familiarity with the equipment which resulted in several poorly exposed negatives. But those mistakes sent me back to the instruction manual(s) and next time out I hope to be better prepared. With the slow time module and exposure meter control this camera is fairly complex, certainly not as easy to use as a point and shoot film camera!

In terms of image quality my impression agrees with the comments made by others, i.e. it makes remarkable negatives with wall-to-wall sharpness and excellent contrast. The lens is a 50mm f/4.5 Docteur Optic.

Sandy King

docter

 

[rogein]

noblex canada has such lenses. are they still around?

AFAIK, yes. I purchased a closeup lens for my 6/150E back in March of this year. Sigge also said he has a sufficient stock of parts to continue servicing the Noblex Pro series for the next 10 years.

Roger...

 

[ufpd]

Hi!

I am testing a 6/150ux and I am very happy with the initial results. The first b&w roll worked flawesly.
The user manual has a typo, 5 for S so I got confused and missloading the camera and lost one frame in the second roll
But when I developed the Provia 100 roll I found the camera oversized the space between frames. And I got 2 unexposed frames (one in each roll)
Then I loaded a ruined film and check the film position after load and after the last frame and It seems to work ok.
Can the bad loading be the problem with the space between frames?
Any tip will be greatly apreciated, sorry about my english

Alejandro
www.gulminelli.com
Buenos Aires, Argentina

 

[ufpd]

anybody can help me?

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

Unless there is something wrong with the film advance, spacing problems or missing frames are likely to be the result of loading error.

When you load the camera, the large arrows on the film backing should line up with the red dot inside the camera, and the counter should be on "S". Then close the back, and advance to "1".

Do not push the shutter button to advance the counter past "S" until you close the back. If you do, you need to advance the counter all the way around back to "S" before loading the film and closing the back.

 

[mfohl]

Hi Sandy, I have a Noblex 150; don't think it's a U model because the slow shutter speed module doesn't fit. Anyway, it has the sharpest and contrastiest lens that I own, better than the 35mm Nikkors and Mamiya TLR lenses. It is extremely sharp. My exposures are all right on. I do mostly sunny 16 stuff, and in lower light situations I meter with my 35 Nikkor and set accordingly.

It does have some mechanical issues. If you don't follow the film loading instructions to a T, you may have overlapping images. And now I get overlapping images sometimes when I do follow the instructions. So I'm going to send away for service. And even with overlapping images, sometimes the negatives are usable.

You should be able to find filters on ebay. And there was a guy in Holland who made them; can't remember his name.

The camera will take some getting used to, as it is extremely panoramic. Tilt the camera up or down slightly, and close (5-10 meters) horizontal lines bend in the middle. And that's not necessarily a bad thing, but be aware that it's there.

I've had fun with mine, although it is not my primary camera. I do know a couple of other folks who use it more than I do, and they do very nice work.

Good luck, and have fun.

-- Mark