Yes, shift is a feature that I wish I had on mine. I also pasted a white label on top of the viewfinder so I can write down what kind of film I have in the camera or other notes, and some arrows in a circle reminding me which way to turn the darn barrel for changing filters so I don't loose a frame (counterclockwise, if you haven't read that part of the manual).
Hey, that's a sweet photo from your new Noblex! I took a workshop with Macduff Everton a few years ago, and he shared a tip with the class - if you're using a Noblex, you can buy a small bullseye bubble level and secure it to the top front of the camera with silicone caulk, so it's visible when looking through the viewfinder. The level included in the camera viewfinder itself is only for one axis, and you'll need both axes level in order to have completely level horizons.
Distribution has become difficult since KWD has been having financial difficulties, so I don't think there is a current US distributor that can get things reliably for Noblex, and same for Robert White, which used to be a Noblex distributor. Calumet and Photo Habitat were Noblex dealers, so they may have a few odd items. RTS was the US distributor, but I gather that RTS has dropped them....
http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/tags/noblex/
Hello David,
AFAIK the financial difficulties at Kamerawerke Dresden has been solved in the meantime. There was a critical time in the last year, when the production of the 35mm models were stopped. But last autumn the production was started again.
Distributors are listed here:
Dead Link Removed
@Sandy: Wish you a lot of fun and excellent pictures with your Noblex!
I am still dreaming of one.....
Best regards,
Henning
Attached is one of my first negatives made with the Noblex 6/150 U. This is straight from the scanner except for the frame.
Fuji Acros, two seconds at f/11. Developed in Pyrocat-HD 1:1:100, 20 minutes at 70F, with minimal agitation. Subject was low contrast so N+ development was required.
The subject was in downtown Greenville, SC, about five minutes by car from my home.
Sandy King
It seems to me, particularly since I wear glasses, that I have to look through the finder at different angles to see the edges of the frame. My experience is that you can't see wider than what you can see in the finder, even if you need to move your head from side to side to see the edges of the frame, and the frame edges are accurate.
My camera doesn't have shift, so I don't know how the finder on your Noblex registers that.
This is one of the trees you see around the Washington tidal basin and they are now at about peak as I understand it.
It seems to me, particularly since I wear glasses, that I have to look through the finder at different angles to see the edges of the frame. My experience is that you can't see wider than what you can see in the finder, even if you need to move your head from side to side to see the edges of the frame, and the frame edges are accurate.
My camera doesn't have shift, so I don't know how the finder on your Noblex registers that.
Hi Sandy, as to your question "Is this a good camera?", I think it's a great camera. I have some Nikon 35 mm stuff and some Mamiya TLR stuff, and the Noblex with the Tessar lens is the sharpest and contrastiest lens of the lot. It will give you super images. There are two caveats. First, be careful how you load the film; follow the instructions to a T. If you don't, you will have overlapping images and won't get the full panoramic view. Although the negatives are still useable. And second, it took me a while to get used to the whole panorama thing. You have to be close to things because they really get smaller in a hurry the farther out they are. And if you are close to something flat, like a wall or a building, horizontal lines will curve. This can be a good technique, but you need some experience to take advantage of it.
If you like to play with cameras, you should love this one.
Cheers,
-- Mark
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