NIKOR versus KINDERMANN versus LPL stainless steel tanks

[Samuel Dilworth]

The preferred method of using steel tanks is to immerse reels into developer in darkroom and carry out rest of developing process in dark, so no pouring in chemicals in and out through lid. ?

That’s certainly what Kodak recommends in the D-76 datasheet, for example, that includes these instructions:

1. Fill the empty tank with developer.
2. Start the timer. In the dark, carefully place the loaded reel into the developer solution.
3. Quickly attach the top to the tank. [continues with tapping and agitation instructions, etc.]​

I suppose it reduces the risk of uneven development at the cost of splash risk.

I’d be interested to know how time-sensitive the stop bath (or water) is, that is, whether there’s a big risk of uneven development arising from that being poured in the top.

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

If I’m using the 8 or 12 x 35mm reel tank; or if I’m using a staining developer like PMK or ABC pyro; or if I’m using a film/dev combination with a short development time (cold water out of the tap here is 72F, so it happens), I’ll usually fill and immerse in the dark. If I’m using the 1, 2, or 5 reel tank with a more dilute developer and a longer development time, I’ll pour it through the cap.

 

[MattKing]

I’d be interested to know how time-sensitive the stop bath (or water) is, that is, whether there’s a big risk of uneven development arising from that being poured in the top.

Not very time sensitive, particularly if you use stop-bath.
That is assuming, of course, that your film has been reasonably fully developed, and that the developer that remains on it as the stop bath is introduced is at least partially exhausted.
If you are using a water stop, it probably has more of an effect on the fixer than on the evenness of development.

 

[Samuel Dilworth]

Do Kindermann tanks always have a logo inscribed on the base? What about the plastic covers?

I bought one online, the 1-litre model (for four 35 mm reels). The main problem is it was described as “excellent condition” but the cover is cracked (old-style with chunky vertical grooves around edge and black pour cap), so not really fit for purpose. I’m trying to return it. The tank itself looks good but has absolutely no markings anywhere. The cover has no markings either. Maybe the older models had no visible branding?

 

[Konical]

Good Afternoon, Samuel,

I have several Kinderman SS tanks; each of them has the logo on the bottom. I keep hearing of Kinderman lids which crack, but all of mine are at least thirty years old and of the design you describe. All are still intact.

Konical

 

[Samuel Dilworth]

Thanks, Konical. Maybe there was some sort of mix-up with what was shipped to me. This is what I got:

The featureless base makes me wonder if the whole thing is a generic tank rather than a Kindermann. Either way, it’s not much use to me with a cover in that state.

 

[David Reynolds]

Thanks, Konical. Maybe there was some sort of mix-up with what was shipped to me. This is what I got:

The featureless base makes me wonder if the whole thing is a generic tank rather than a Kindermann. Either way, it’s not much use to me with a cover in that state.

I have a Kindermann tank identical to the one described with the stamped logo on the bottom of the SS tank. The lid has cracked both on the cover and the pour lid similar to the pictures above. I believe that this occurs when the unit is stored with the lids in place and it goes thru cold and warm periods . The SS Tank expands and contracts with temperature changes and the plastic pieces eventually crack from the expansion and contractions that take place. The above pictured tank may not be a Kindermann but as you see the damage happens to all plastic and SS tanks.
Thanks to all who responded to my earlier inquiry concerning the replacement of these two lids. They are readily available at B&H in New York.