NIKOR versus KINDERMANN versus LPL stainless steel tanks

[Samuel Dilworth]

The preferred method of using steel tanks is to immerse reels into developer in darkroom and carry out rest of developing process in dark, so no pouring in chemicals in and out through lid. ?

That’s certainly what Kodak recommends in the D-76 datasheet, for example, that includes these instructions:

1. Fill the empty tank with developer.
2. Start the timer. In the dark, carefully place the loaded reel into the developer solution.
3. Quickly attach the top to the tank. [continues with tapping and agitation instructions, etc.]​

I suppose it reduces the risk of uneven development at the cost of splash risk.

I’d be interested to know how time-sensitive the stop bath (or water) is, that is, whether there’s a big risk of uneven development arising from that being poured in the top.

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

If I’m using the 8 or 12 x 35mm reel tank; or if I’m using a staining developer like PMK or ABC pyro; or if I’m using a film/dev combination with a short development time (cold water out of the tap here is 72F, so it happens), I’ll usually fill and immerse in the dark. If I’m using the 1, 2, or 5 reel tank with a more dilute developer and a longer development time, I’ll pour it through the cap.

 

[MattKing]

I’d be interested to know how time-sensitive the stop bath (or water) is, that is, whether there’s a big risk of uneven development arising from that being poured in the top.

Not very time sensitive, particularly if you use stop-bath.
That is assuming, of course, that your film has been reasonably fully developed, and that the developer that remains on it as the stop bath is introduced is at least partially exhausted.
If you are using a water stop, it probably has more of an effect on the fixer than on the evenness of development.

 

[Samuel Dilworth]

Do Kindermann tanks always have a logo inscribed on the base? What about the plastic covers?

I bought one online, the 1-litre model (for four 35 mm reels). The main problem is it was described as “excellent condition” but the cover is cracked (old-style with chunky vertical grooves around edge and black pour cap), so not really fit for purpose. I’m trying to return it. The tank itself looks good but has absolutely no markings anywhere. The cover has no markings either. Maybe the older models had no visible branding?

 

[Konical]

Good Afternoon, Samuel,

I have several Kinderman SS tanks; each of them has the logo on the bottom. I keep hearing of Kinderman lids which crack, but all of mine are at least thirty years old and of the design you describe. All are still intact.

Konical

 

[Samuel Dilworth]

Thanks, Konical. Maybe there was some sort of mix-up with what was shipped to me. This is what I got:

The featureless base makes me wonder if the whole thing is a generic tank rather than a Kindermann. Either way, it’s not much use to me with a cover in that state.

 

[David Reynolds]

Thanks, Konical. Maybe there was some sort of mix-up with what was shipped to me. This is what I got:

The featureless base makes me wonder if the whole thing is a generic tank rather than a Kindermann. Either way, it’s not much use to me with a cover in that state.

I have a Kindermann tank identical to the one described with the stamped logo on the bottom of the SS tank. The lid has cracked both on the cover and the pour lid similar to the pictures above. I believe that this occurs when the unit is stored with the lids in place and it goes thru cold and warm periods . The SS Tank expands and contracts with temperature changes and the plastic pieces eventually crack from the expansion and contractions that take place. The above pictured tank may not be a Kindermann but as you see the damage happens to all plastic and SS tanks.
Thanks to all who responded to my earlier inquiry concerning the replacement of these two lids. They are readily available at B&H in New York.

 

[Duggbug]

What is the shortest model of tank? I have 1x35, 2x35, and 4x35 tanks, and a 16 mm reel. Is there a really short tank for that reel?

 

[Saganich]

This discussion prompted me to go and check my storage which contains my disassembled darkroom equipment. It has been almost eight years since I moved and had to store it. I used kindermann ss tanks with plastic lids for both 35mm and 120mm. I found the lids totally cracked and split making them unusable . They were fine when I stored them. Can one replace the lids (buy new ones) or do I have to buy new units? I may want to return to film development one day and this will be a major obstacle.

I'm down from about 5 plastic lids to 2 from them cracking. The plastic lids are useable on all my generic SS tanks, but the caps for the lids are not. I always have to find the one that fits from the 5 I have.

 

[eli griggs]

Who here is 3D printing lids and caps for their cans here and what are the complications, ie, do you need to tape them in place to develop.

 

[Duggbug]

Who here is 3D printing lids and caps for their cans here and what are the complications, ie, do you need to tape them in place to develop.

Not me. I use the "slosh the tank back and forth on the sink bottom for ten seconds every minute" method of agitation. Turning a can of stuff upside-down has always seemed dangerous to me!

Recently I've been using 150 ml of solution in a 2x35 tank to develop one roll of Minox film. That is at least twice as much as should be needed. Might 3d print a shorter tank to fit a stainless steel lid--if there are no short metal tanks to be had.

 

[reddesert]

Freestyle sells the plastic lid and cap for steel tanks as a replacement item. These are for their Arista house brand of stainless steel tanks, but I think they will fit other tanks. They only cost US $5, so if you order from Freestyle you can add one to your order to check. https://www.freestylephoto.biz/161816-Arista-Tank-PVC-Replacement-Top

Edit to add: B&H also sells replacement plastic lids "for all tanks." https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/122992-REG/Samigon_ESA359_Plastic_Cover_for_all.html

I posted six years ago in this thread: if you have cracked plastic lids for stainless steel tanks, you can buy new replacements from Freestyle or B&H.

The links actually still work, but unfortunately, the price has gone up by a couple dollars at Freestyle, and now they're a special order item at B&H.

 

[eli griggs]

I’ve always taped loose lids, inverting my tanks, so keeping lid/tank pairs together is important to me, but I do have a couple or three tanks that might want fresh lids for a tighter fit.

One thing about being a pack rat is darkroom kit accumulation can get out of hand and keeping it in fit condition and in-
rotation becomes a chore at times.