Nikon NIKKOR 15mm f/3.5 AI-s (1978-2006): What is your experience and opinion?

[Sirius Glass]

I have come across the Nikon NIKKOR 15mm f/3.5 AI-s (1978-2006).
What is your opinion and experiences?
Is it worth between $900US and $1,600US?
I have a Nikon NIKKOR f/2.8 AF lens and a Nikon NIKKOR f/2.8 D 20mm to 25mm AF zoom lens on one side and the Nikon NIKKOR f/2.8 D 16mm AF Fisheye lens on the other side. In the past my experience has been the 20mm lenses are wide enough and can be used to make the foreground or close object larger and the background recede. Any wider would be overkill. Opinion and experiences, please.

 

[Huss]

Best resource for info on this particular lens.

Nikon 15mm f/3.5 AI-s

I don't have that lens, but I have two other 15mm lenses. Frankly they are not used that often but if you are into architectural photography then they can be useful. The rest of the time, as you know, you need to have something significant in the foreground otherwise all your pics will look like tiny things very far away.

 

[benjiboy]

I have always avoided buying fisheye lenses Steve, because I disliked the cylindrical perspective they produce, and consideration how expensive they are are of very little use. my wide angle prime lenses, 17mmf4, 24mm f 2, 28 mm f 2, 35 mm f 2, and my 20 - 35 mm f3.5 L zoom all product the rectilinear perspective that I prefer

 

[ic-racer]

I actually rented the Nikkor 14mm AF lens for a trip. I found the lens almost too wide for my taste. So I returned it and did not "use my rental fee toward a purchase" as I had been offered.
Though I might re-consider now, seeing as they are discontinued but still available new.

If you get it the 15mm, report back.

 

[ic-racer]

This is my 'Holy Grail' lens for the Rollei system. I have only seen one for sale once at $6000 so I passed...

 

[Sirius Glass]

When I bought the f/2.8 21mm Rokkor lens for my Minolta in 1972, I found that while I loved the lens, the percentage of use was low because very few subjects can be photographed in a way that the lens could add to. Hence I bought my 30mm Hasselblad Fisheye because the offered price was too low to walk away from. I do not find situations to use it often. Last week KEH offered a cannot walk away from price for the Nikon NIKKOR f/2.8 D 16mm AF Fisheye lens. I am going to start taking one of the other fisheye cameras out for walks looking for suitable subject and perhaps I will learn to use it more. So this is more background why I started this thread. I suspect that the 15mm lens would not be used much as good as that classic lens is.

 

[Huss]

Just cuz it's a 15mm does not mean it's a fish eye

Nikon F3 w Lomo Neptune 15mm






Untitled

 

[Mick Fagan]

A very close friend (at the time) had one of these. We often photographed together and both of us were running Nikon F3 bodies, he borrowing my waist level finder for indoor architectural shots, me borrowing the lens every now and then.

It shines inside, or on cloudy days where you don't have bright light in the view of the lens. It is rectilinear and unless you are within 500mm of your subject, almost all lines are straight.

When he lost his job as a press photographer, this was one of the lenses he managed to keep. As far as I know, he still has it.

At the same time he and I were running around using that lens, I had, and still do have, an 18mm rectilinear lens. Within reason we used the 15mm when the 18mm couldn't do the job; which wasn't that often.

Not entirely sure, but I seem to remember a rear filter needed to be attached to make it work correctly. That said, this could be a hangover from the rear filter for the Nikkor f/5.6 600 we used to use and I'm getting things mixed up.

You don't need it, but it certainly changes the look through the viewfinder. Best used with an F camera to ensure 100% viewfinder coverage, otherwise mistakes are very easily made.

 

[Jesper]

I have one and can recommend it if you have the need for a very wide angle lens. It is, as Mick said, rectilinear and surprisingly so. It is also quite sharp but prone to flare which could be a problem if you are outside on a sunny day. It does have a rear filter (at lest the 15/3.5 Ai that I have) so make sure that it is not missing if you buy one.

It is a good lens but how much it is worth is up to you 900-1600USD seems a bit much I haven't quite come to terms with the increase in the price of camera gear these last few years (I paid about 200USD 15 years ago)

 

[Sirius Glass]

A very close friend (at the time) had one of these. We often photographed together and both of us were running Nikon F3 bodies, he borrowing my waist level finder for indoor architectural shots, me borrowing the lens every now and then.

It shines inside, or on cloudy days where you don't have bright light in the view of the lens. It is rectilinear and unless you are within 500mm of your subject, almost all lines are straight.

When he lost his job as a press photographer, this was one of the lenses he managed to keep. As far as I know, he still has it.

At the same time he and I were running around using that lens, I had, and still do have, an 18mm rectilinear lens. Within reason we used the 15mm when the 18mm couldn't do the job; which wasn't that often.

Not entirely sure, but I seem to remember a rear filter needed to be attached to make it work correctly. That said, this could be a hangover from the rear filter for the Nikkor f/5.6 600 we used to use and I'm getting things mixed up.

You don't need it, but it certainly changes the look through the viewfinder. Best used with an F camera to ensure 100% viewfinder coverage, otherwise mistakes are very easily made.

I have one and can recommend it if you have the need for a very wide angle lens. It is, as Mick said, rectilinear and surprisingly so. It is also quite sharp but prone to flare which could be a problem if you are outside on a sunny day. It does have a rear filter (at lest the 15/3.5 Ai that I have) so make sure that it is not missing if you buy one.

It is a good lens but how much it is worth is up to you 900-1600USD seems a bit much I haven't quite come to terms with the increase in the price of camera gear these last few years (I paid about 200USD 15 years ago)

The rear filter of the Hasselblad Fisheye is part of the optical perscription and I think that the Nikon rear filter for the 13mm, 14mm and 15mm lenses are also part of the optical prescription. Since I just purchased the Nikon Nikkor 16mm f/2.8 AF Fisheye, I have spare A2, B2 and O56 Orange filters, not the UV filter. Since the tail wages the dog, that got me thinking about the 15mm lens.

Secondly I am fascinated by rectilinear lenses which makes the 15mm attractive [spare filters + rectilinear]. My concern it that the lens is so wide that it might have significantly reduced use and the flares are a problem. Would the 18mm be better because of the flare issues or is it too close to the 20mm lenses that I already have?

 

[Huss]

The rear filter of the Hasselblad Fisheye is part of the optical perscription and I think that the Nikon rear filter for the 13mm, 14mm and 15mm lenses are also part of the optical prescription. Since I just purchased the Nikon Nikkor 16mm f/2.8 AF Fisheye, I have spare A2, B2 and O56 Orange filters, not the UV filter. Since the tail wages the dog, that got me thinking about the 15mm lens.

Secondly I am fascinated by rectilinear lenses which makes the 15mm attractive [spare filters + rectilinear]. My concern it that the lens is so wide that it might have significantly reduced use and the flares are a problem. Would the 18mm be better because of the flare issues or is it too close to the 20mm lenses that I already have?

The shorter the focal length, the more significant each mm is.

But.. if you already have a 20mm ask yourself why would you want an 18mm? I would get the 15 because there is a really significant difference in look. You'll know when you want to use the 15mm vs the 20. But the 18 vs the 20?

Another pic with the 15mm. You just can't be lazy using this lens and have to make sure there is foreground in the scene. Those rocks are literally inches from me.

 

[Sirius Glass]

The shorter the focal length, the more significant each mm is.

But.. if you already have a 20mm ask yourself why would you want an 18mm? I would get the 15 because there is a really significant difference in look. You'll know when you want to use the 15mm vs the 20. But the 18 vs the 20?

Another pic with the 15mm. You just can't be lazy using this lens and have to make sure there is foreground in the scene. Those rocks are literally inches from me.

Thank you. I am interested in the 15mm lens. I am going to think about the extra width and if I will be using it. What are your thoughts about flares and other light intrusions? I suspect that getting photographs with the tops of ones shoes is a feature as it is for fisheye lenses.

KEH has two of them but they are UGLY and while there are many on eBay, if I do purchase one I will wait for KEH to have one.

 

[Huss]

The beautiful thing about using SLRs is you can see the flaring. Especially if you use the DOF button to stop down. Yes it will flare, but either avoid it by repositioning, or embrace it. As for the tops of your shoes? again, w an SLR you can see if that is going to happen.
My F3 has a grid screen which is so handy to line things up so you don't have wonky horizons etc. You could use a bubble level, but it is nice to just use the VF and see if things are straight.

 

[Sirius Glass]

The beautiful thing about using SLRs is you can see the flaring. Especially if you use the DOF button to stop down. Yes it will flare, but either avoid it by repositioning, or embrace it. As for the tops of your shoes? again, w an SLR you can see if that is going to happen.
My F3 has a grid screen which is so handy to line things up so you don't have wonky horizons etc. You could use a bubble level, but it is nice to just use the VF and see if things are straight.

The SWC has a bubble in the viewfinder, but the viewfinder has its own distortion and the bottom of the frame is blocked by the lens, so one turns the camera upside down when necessary to check.

I wonder if I could rent one from Samys to get a feel for it. OR I might arrange a meeting with you, buy you lunch and a couple [or more] beers.

 

[Sirius Glass]

The shorter the focal length, the more significant each mm is.

But.. if you already have a 20mm ask yourself why would you want an 18mm? I would get the 15 because there is a really significant difference in look. You'll know when you want to use the 15mm vs the 20. But the 18 vs the 20?

Another pic with the 15mm. You just can't be lazy using this lens and have to make sure there is foreground in the scene. Those rocks are literally inches from me.

I am convinced by your comments and advice. A Nikon NIKKOR f/3.5 15mm AI-s in EX condition came up today at KEH and I bought it. Thank you for your help and advice.

 

[Huss]

The SWC has a bubble in the viewfinder, but the viewfinder has its own distortion and the bottom of the frame is blocked by the lens, so one turns the camera upside down when necessary to check.

I wonder if I could rent one from Samys to get a feel for it. OR I might arrange a meeting with you, buy you lunch and a couple [or more] beers.

Just saw this - and just saw that you bought a lens. A 15mm is really useful for THAT time that you need it! Or... you can use it as a challenge and make yourself look for interesting scenes. In street photog, you can stand right next to someone, but point the camera slightly away and they will think you are not taking a pic of them.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Can the Nikon 15mm f/3.5 NIKKOR AIS Manual Focus Lens be chipped?

 

[Moose22]

Can the Nikon 15mm f/3.5 NIKKOR AIS Manual Focus Lens be chipped?

Yes

I did its 18mm brother:

Works great on the F6 and F100 now. Matrix on the F4, too. Basically mounts and meters as I expect with no fussing or setup on everything I've tried.

I didn't try it on the N75, though, so no promises it'll mount, but I can't imagine it'd be an issue.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Yes

I did its 18mm brother:

Works great on the F6 and F100 now. Matrix on the F4, too. Basically mounts and meters as I expect with no fussing or setup on everything I've tried.

I didn't try it on the N75, though, so no promises it'll mount, but I can't imagine it'd be an issue.

Where did you get it done and what did it cost?

 

[Moose22]

Where did you get it done and what did it cost?

I did it myself.

Got the chips on the ebay. Dandelion for Nikon or something like that will find them. They were $30, looking at the ebay auction I won.

Programming takes a dslr. I did it with a D7100, and isn't hard. It's silly, turn it on holding this and that, wait for this number of flashes, fire the shutter, wait for that number of flashes, etc. Just follow the included instructions carefully and it works fine.

I have that lens on the F4 right now and it meters great, and focus confirmation works properly. Interestingly, they're not supposed to be compatible with the F4, but I'm not complaining. My ebay auction said:

AF Chip "Dandelion" for Nikon Compatibility

There are only three film cameras that Dandelion is not compatible with: F4, F60, F601, F801 and F90x. It works with all other models perfectly. Programming mode is not compatible with F5 and D1X/H models.​

Anyway, it looks like the dandelion will work with your nikons.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I did it myself.

Got the chips on the ebay. Dandelion for Nikon or something like that will find them. They were $30, looking at the ebay auction I won.

Programming takes a dslr. I did it with a D7100, and isn't hard. It's silly, turn it on holding this and that, wait for this number of flashes, fire the shutter, wait for that number of flashes, etc. Just follow the included instructions carefully and it works fine.

I have that lens on the F4 right now and it meters great, and focus confirmation works properly. Interestingly, they're not supposed to be compatible with the F4, but I'm not complaining. My ebay auction said:



Anyway, it looks like the dandelion will work with your nikons.

Thank you. I found the chip and the instructions on-line. Lacking a DLSR, could I program it with my F100? It looks like it.