Nikon N75 body on the way. Lenses? Opinions?

[KerrKid]

Wait wait wait. "G" is for "Gelded", which means the lens doesn't have an actual manually operated aperture ring. These can be either FX (full frame), or DX (crop). And that is what matters: DX lenses will vignette on full frame camera. You asked about 18-55 mm DX lens, so it will vignette. But 28 mm G lens, mentioned by Moose22 is most probably this one:

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/856064-USA/Nikon_2203_AF_S_NIKKOR_28mm_f_1_8G.html

And since there's no "DX" marking, it will work perfectly fine with a full frame camera like N75. Same goes for cheap plastic zooms like 28-80 G or something. So "DX" is the key.

Thank you for clearing that up!

 

[Moose22]

Thank you for the info! I’m looking at the 50 f1.8. Hard to beat the value, but I sure would like a 35. I’m not sure I like 28. I don’t have enough experience with those to fairly say.

Get a 35 OR a 28, don't get both. They are close enough in field of view that they both serve the same role -- a wider than normal, but not a very wide. I have chosen to use a 28 for the very important reason that I happen to already have one. As I said, I love my 35 on the Leica and use it pretty much for the same scenes.

G lenses are not DX only, most are FX actually. G lenses I'm taking about are just ones without an aperture ring.

For 35mm, a used version of this guy: https://www.nikonusa.com/en/Nikon-Products/Product/Camera-Lenses/AF-Nikkor-35mm-f%2F2D.html used to be the shiz for cheap. They are a little more expensive now, but they'll work on any nikon and have a good reputation.

This is the G version: https://www.nikonusa.com/en/nikon-products/product/camera-lenses/af-s-nikkor-35mm-f%2f1.8g-ed.html

If I had a choice I'd get the AF-D version because less expensive and smaller.


As for what lenses you can use in general -- the N75 takes all autofocus lenses except for the E series with electronic diaphragms and af-P with stepper motors.
-- You can use AF or AF-D. These are screw-type autofocus, the D means the lens sends distance information to help with things like TTL Flash metering.
-- You can use AF-I or AF-S. These have an internal motor to focus. I stands for Internal, S stands for "Silent Wave" but they're both autofocus lenses that use their own motor
-- You can use G lenses -- these are usually AF-S lenses and don't have aperture rings.

-- As a side note, If you have a lens with VR, it will work on your camera.

-- You want FX format, never DX. DX is for the smaller digital sensor so it vignettes something fierce in 35mm
-- For pre-autofocus lenses, you can mount and shoot in manual with AI and AI-s lenses but the meter won't work with them. You can add a chip to make them work, which isn't hard. I've done it. But it's a hassle so you might avoid them right now.

Hope that helps if you're searching for bargains in the future.

 

[petrk]

-- For pre-autofocus lenses, you can mount and shoot in manual with AI and AI-s lenses but the meter won't work with them. You can add a chip to make them work, which isn't hard. I've done it. But it's a hassle so you might avoid them right now.

@ Moose22 this is interesting, I thought it is possible to meter center weighted but not matrix with theese lenses. Maybe I am wrong. Am I?

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I bought a Nikon N75 body a couple of days ago on ebay. I'm leaning towards a 35mm f2 af-d lens for it, but I'm also looking at the 50mm f1.8 and f1.4.

Anyone else have any experience with the N75/F75? It's supposed to be very light and I'd like a lens that compliments it for a walk-about camera.

Thanks!

You 'll be having so much fun, the government is going to charge You an entertainment tax! Have a ball and start with the nifty fifty AF

 

[KerrKid]

Get a 35 OR a 28, don't get both. They are close enough in field of view that they both serve the same role -- a wider than normal, but not a very wide. I have chosen to use a 28 for the very important reason that I happen to already have one. As I said, I love my 35 on the Leica and use it pretty much for the same scenes.

G lenses are not DX only, most are FX actually. G lenses I'm taking about are just ones without an aperture ring.

For 35mm, a used version of this guy: https://www.nikonusa.com/en/Nikon-Products/Product/Camera-Lenses/AF-Nikkor-35mm-f%2F2D.html used to be the shiz for cheap. They are a little more expensive now, but they'll work on any nikon and have a good reputation.

This is the G version: https://www.nikonusa.com/en/nikon-products/product/camera-lenses/af-s-nikkor-35mm-f%2f1.8g-ed.html

If I had a choice I'd get the AF-D version because less expensive and smaller.


As for what lenses you can use in general -- the N75 takes all autofocus lenses except for the E series with electronic diaphragms and af-P with stepper motors.
-- You can use AF or AF-D. These are screw-type autofocus, the D means the lens sends distance information to help with things like TTL Flash metering.
-- You can use AF-I or AF-S. These have an internal motor to focus. I stands for Internal, S stands for "Silent Wave" but they're both autofocus lenses that use their own motor
-- You can use G lenses -- these are usually AF-S lenses and don't have aperture rings.

-- As a side note, If you have a lens with VR, it will work on your camera.

-- You want FX format, never DX. DX is for the smaller digital sensor so it vignettes something fierce in 35mm
-- For pre-autofocus lenses, you can mount and shoot in manual with AI and AI-s lenses but the meter won't work with them. You can add a chip to make them work, which isn't hard. I've done it. But it's a hassle so you might avoid them right now.

Hope that helps if you're searching for bargains in the future.

Thank you for that information! Very helpful!

 

[KerrKid]

You 'll be having so much fun, the government is going to charge You an entertainment tax! Have a ball and start with the nifty fifty AF

I will! Thanks! The N75 is the first newer SLR I've owned so I'm eager to see what it's like.

 

[Sirius Glass]

The 35mm lens is too close to the 50mm lens, so do not waste your money. The 28mm lens pairs well with the 50mm lens.

 

[KerrKid]

The 35mm lens is too close to the 50mm lens, so do not waste your money. The 28mm lens pairs well with the 50mm lens.

Advice taken. I’ll start looking for a 28.

 

[MattKing]

FWIW, I carry three little Olympus OM lenses - 24mm, 35mm and 85mm.
I mention this just to point out that everybody has their own set of fields of view that work well for them.

 

[KerrKid]

FWIW, I carry three little Olympus OM lenses - 24mm, 35mm and 85mm.
I mention this just to point out that everybody has their own set of fields of view that work well for them.

Those are excellent choices but I don’t have the budget for those, yet. I had to get the 50mm so I could use the camera. That leaves me with different choices like one <=35mm. The 85 will have to be last. All these are going on a $15 N75

 

[ic-racer]

When I got my $7 N55, I got a nice Sigma $9 28-80 zoom at the same time. Both like new from KEH. Though that was ten years ago. The zoom is excellent quality but slow.

 

[Austintatious]

Most all the affordable zooms are slow...f3.5 at best. An f2.8 zoom will set you back a few bucks.
I made these photos with the Nikon 28-80 G plastic fantastic kit lens. Again, maybe fifty bucks or so for a decent copy.

Salida Church Bell by Carlos Yashinon, on Flickr


Street Musician by Carlos Yashinon, on Flickr

Covers your 28mm,35mm and 80mm. The nifty fifty takes care of the low light needs. Two lenses... done. As you said, you paid fifteen bucks for the N75 (great deal!)

 

[KerrKid]

Most all the affordable zooms are slow...f3.5 at best. An f2.8 zoom will set you back a few bucks.
I made these photos with the Nikon 28-80 G plastic fantastic kit lens. Again, maybe fifty bucks or so for a decent copy.

Salida Church Bell by Carlos Yashinon, on Flickr


Street Musician by Carlos Yashinon, on Flickr

Covers your 28mm,35mm and 80mm. The nifty fifty takes care of the low light needs. Two lenses... done. As you said, you paid fifteen bucks for the N75 (great deal!)

I think I could have picked up a N75 with the 28-80mm for $45, but I’d not heard great things about it so I just got the body. I’ll keep my eyes open for a steal on the 28-80 or similar.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I think I could have picked up a N75 with the 28-80mm for $45, but I’d not heard great things about it so I just got the body. I’ll keep my eyes open for a steal on the 28-80 or similar.

Hold out for the 28m to 300mm AF zoom and have fewer lenses to carry around.

 

[KerrKid]

Hold out for the 28m to 300mm AF zoom and have fewer lenses to carry around.

Would that look like a lens with a camera attached to it?

 

[Austintatious]

The 28-300 AF lens cost around $500 or more . It weighs over 28 ounces. The N75 weighs 13 ounces.
The lens weighs twice what the camera does and costs 30 times what the camera does. Just say'n

 

[Paul Howell]

The superzooms I have are only sort of good stopped to down F8 or 11, the poor at F16 or 22 and very poor wide open depending on the zoom. With mid speed and slow film just because of size and weight need a tripod. My midrange zooms, 28 to 100 or 35 to 80 are pretty good even wide open, not fast so I do use fast film but have shot Tmax 100 without much trouble.

 

[Sirius Glass]

The superzooms I have are only sort of good stopped to down F8 or 11, the poor at F16 or 22 and very poor wide open depending on the zoom. With mid speed and slow film just because of size and weight need a tripod. My midrange zooms, 28 to 100 or 35 to 80 are pretty good even wide open, not fast so I do use fast film but have shot Tmax 100 without much trouble.

Never a weight problem. This is not three pounds on the scale. I have never had a problem either wide open nor closed down. Those things are not problems with the aspheric lens of the last few years.

 

[Huss]

The 28-80G kit lens is fantastic. The only cheap thing about it is the build, but optically it is great.

Taken with an N75 I used to have and the 28-80:

 

[Sirius Glass]

The 28-80G kit lens is fantastic. The only cheap thing about it is the build, but optically it is great.

Taken with an N75 I used to have and the 28-80:

Of course one has to be able to "see things". Your photo is a case in point. If you do not see things, there are no photographs to take.

 

[KerrKid]

If the 28-80 is good, why not just get a 28-105? That lens seems to get decent reviews and would cover the bases even better I would think.

I’m waiting on my 50mm lens to get here. The camera arrived on Sunday. Looks to be in mint shape.

 

[Huss]

If the 28-80 is good, why not just get a 28-105? That lens seems to get decent reviews and would cover the bases even better I would think.

I’m waiting on my 50mm lens to get here. The camera arrived on Sunday. Looks to be in mint shape.

I have it. It is much bigger and heavier and while excellent on a bigger/heavier body, does not feel good on the N75. 28-80 feels perfect.

FYI I'd be happy to sell u my 28-105 as I use the 24-120 much more.

 

[KerrKid]

I have it. It is much bigger and heavier and while excellent on a bigger/heavier body, does not feel good on the N75. 28-80 feels perfect.

FYI I'd be happy to sell u my 28-105 as I use the 24-120 much more.

I don't want anything that doesn't feel good on the N75. I trust your judgement on that.

Which model of 24-120 do you have? They are quite expensive aren't they?

 

[KerrKid]

I just saw what looks like a mint shape N75 with the 28-80mm lens on ebay for 38.95 so I bought it.

 

[Huss]

I just saw what looks like a mint shape N75 with the 28-80mm lens on ebay for 38.95 so I bought it.

Excellent! There was a reason that is the kit lens on the N75 - works perfectly with it.

FYI I have the latest 24-120. It is very big, very heavy! Would be miserable handling-wise on an N75.