Do you really want auto focus? If not, then I would look at the FM3a.
Nikon F6?
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What a great little camera. But then I could by an F6, or an F5 and at least one nice lens, for what clean used FM3a's are selling for.
I just tried the F4 and F6 side by side. In the F4, I can hear each discrete element - shutter, mirror and film advance, when in single shot mode. There is also a sound that the best way I can describe it sounds like a stretched spring being plucked. The F6 in contrast is a single sound - the mirror mainly. The film advance sound is gone. I'd describe the sounds as crisper, more precise. Shorter duration too.
I heard that a lot! In other word it's a lousy auto focus camera. However, I don't think it's that bad in term of AF. When I don't use AF I go for the F3. The F4 isn't for me.I'd go for a F4. Best manual focus camera ever made
I was very surprised to hear the shutter sound for the first time because it seems there is no film transport (and because I was accustomed to the F-801s, which is very loud). If I remember well the motor is brushless so there is no whine. I guess the mechanical sounds are also muffled by the metal body.
The strange thing is that the whole sequence is quite short (Craig, post #56) so film transport must be very fast in spite of not hearing it.
The best way to describe it is that the film transport noise is completely merged with the noise from the mirror and shutter.
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No, it isn't that bad. For it's time, it was outstanding compared to things like the Canon T80. It does have trouble with low contrast situations, like any other single sensor camera; and if you have primarily horizontal lines in the subject. I found myself turning the camera slightly to give it something to focus on. Once it locks on thought, the focus is fast and precise.
And, yes, I know the F4 came out 2 years after the T80.
That is it! Thank you.
As for the F4, I use my F4s's with AF lenses only - the AF speed is good enough for cityscapes and landscapes.
However, I also have a 60/2.8 G ED AF-S Micro-Nikkor and it focuses so fast that at first I didn't think it was focusing - I was expecting to hear the AF motor and see the shift in focus. Instead, focus seemed to snap into place almost the instant I placed my finger on the release. Someone stated this lens focuses faster on the F4 than later cameras. I wonder if that's true of other AF-S lenses. Of course, this being a G lens, I have to use either shutter priority or program modes.
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Some lenses focus faster than others One of the advantages of AF is that statistically the AF focus in more accurate that the human eye over a large number of photographs. Still one must be careful if there are objects closer than the subject or shooting through windows. Know your camera and check the manual for the situations that will focus on the wrong object.
I have the F6, and while I like it, I don't get people's admiration of the matrix metering. Nikon's office title is 3D Color Matrix and how they claim it works is with the correct chipped lenses, it bases exposure on what is in focus.
Except this can be shown to be false just by focusing on a back lit subject that is close or mid distance from the camera. So the back lit back ground is way out of focus. The camera will underexpose. You don't even have to take a pic to see this, just flip through the metering modes while focused on the same subject and look at the meter reading in the VF.
I just treat the matrix pattern as an avg metered pattern, then things are ok. I use the center weighted (which is very cool as you can change the size of the weighting) with AE lock much more, as well as the spot meter. I have also adjusted the settings so the AE lock hold the exposure until I push it again to unlock, or turn off the camera. The default setting releases AE lock after one exposure, like the F100.
Interestingly enough, because I use the center weighted mode the most, my exposure accuracy is the same whether I use the F6, my F3 or F2AS.
p.s. even though not a film camera, the matrix metering in my D750 works much much better. The progression of time/tech.
Except this can be shown to be false just by focusing on a back lit subject that is close or mid distance from the camera. So the back lit back ground is way out of focus. The camera will underexpose. You don't even have to take a pic to see this, just flip through the metering modes while focused on the same subject and look at the meter reading in the VF.
I just treat the matrix pattern as an avg metered pattern, then things are ok. I use the center weighted (which is very cool as you can change the size of the weighting) with AE lock much more, as well as the spot meter. I have also adjusted the settings so the AE lock hold the exposure until I push it again to unlock, or turn off the camera. The default setting releases AE lock after one exposure, like the F100.
Interestingly enough, because I use the center weighted mode the most, my exposure accuracy is the same whether I use the F6, my F3 or F2AS.
p.s. even though not a film camera, the matrix metering in my D750 works much much better. The progression of time/tech.
Thanks to everyone for the input. I made my decision and ordered a new F6 this morning. I think it will make a nice companion to my D800.
Congratulations on your decision. After you buy the F6 and desired lenses, you can meet the GAS pressure by buying one of every Nikon camera ever made. 
Congratulations! I'm sure your other camera's will be jealous so don't forget to take them out at times.
Congratulations on your decision. After you buy the F6 and desired lenses, you can meet the GAS pressure by buying one of every Nikon camera ever made.
...and that includes the 8mm ciné cameras.
Somewhere, someone does have a copy of every Nikon made.
Congratulations, you won't regret. The F6 is really a masterpiece.
Lars
Lars
Welcome to the club! The F6 is a solidly built, no nonsense, but sophisticated film camera. A magnificent bit of the designers skill and interpretation. Add to that, the superb manufacturing of what was required to give the best results every time.
What I think is unique about the F6 was the small LCD panel on the back that after the correct buttons were pressed gave you the number of cassettes of film that had passed through since it was new. Not a direct aid to taking better photographs but a good guide to the use the camera has undergone through its life and an idea when it may be beneficial to go through a service check.
A cracking bit of kit and you will delight in using it.
What I think is unique about the F6 was the small LCD panel on the back that after the correct buttons were pressed gave you the number of cassettes of film that had passed through since it was new. Not a direct aid to taking better photographs but a good guide to the use the camera has undergone through its life and an idea when it may be beneficial to go through a service check.
A cracking bit of kit and you will delight in using it.
I think, either one knows how to meter and will be able to do it regardless of the kind of meter used (matrix, center etc), or one does not know how to meter and no amount of fancy 3D matrix whatchamacallit will ever help.
Modern matrix metering might speed up the metering process, though.
Wasn't that, at one time, L. Ron Hubbard (as in Scientology)?
Agreed. I generally use full manual metering even on digital cameras, because the smartest systems do not know how I want an image to look. For instance in high contrast lighting I generally like crushed blacks with no shadow detail. Or I go for a high key look in mist and fog. This can be achieved by overriding an automated mode, but it's usually quicker to expose for the look you require.
I added the N80 to my collection for a few reasons, one of which was because it represents the pinnacle of Nikon's capabilities as pertains to consumer grade film cameras. Even though made mostly from plastic it is still a very nice camera to play with. For a similar reason I can see myself purchasing an F6 at some point -- because it represents the pinnacle of Nikon's technical abilities as pertains to pro-level SLRs. And of course, one of these days I'll have to add an FM3a because it is the best manual focus prosumer camera that Nikon has ever made. Although I think the FE2 gives it a good run for the money.
Congratulations on your decision. After you buy the F6 and desired lenses, you can meet the GAS pressure by buying one of every Nikon camera ever made.
And now everyone can pile on telling the OP what a terrible decision he made. After all this is the internet!
So true. In other words, do not let the metering system do the thinking for you
I am also convinced that an incident meter is a great tool to have, even with an F6 or a modern DSLR!
Ah ya shoulda bought an F5 and spent the rest on film.And now everyone can pile on telling the OP what a terrible decision he made. After all this is the internet!
Enjoy the new camera.
Ah ya shoulda bought an F5 and spent the rest on film.
No. It should've been an F100.
Wait, dials suck, knobs are the way to go....should've been an F4.
No you were right the first time ======> F100
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