Nikon F5 mirror issue...

[MartinCrabtree]

Whatever you do don't touch the shutter. They're unobtainum.

 

[vicvalis]

One thing I learned many years ago is, if you don't have the tool and patience to take it apart and put it back together, don't go poking around with your fingers. My fingers ain't going anywhere near that mirror.

jeff

 

[mshchem]

No. It hangs because of something is wrong not because it on an infinite exposure. By default it would not expose for more than 30 sec. It could be set for 30 min maximum.
I would want to know if the shutter is open? May be it doesn't.

If you look at the picture of the mirror box it looks like one blade of the shutter is frozen in place?

And yes, you are correct about the default 30 seconds.

 

[mshchem]

A few days ago I bought a mint F5 from MAP camera from Japan, delivered to my house by FedEx, in 48 hours in USA $350 USD plus 6% tax. That's what one that’s pristine, perfect costs. That one is the backup, to my backup. Best 35mm ever, that's why pro's used them until the shutter went kaput.

 

[vicvalis]

Last pictures and post for the day; won't have time to get batteries until Sunday. I turned the mirror lock-up in the up position, and then back down. Tried the shutter release again and the mirror definitely fluttered a little more, like it wants to go down. Before it was like it was striking something that was obstructing it, but now it's definitely freer. If I was a betting man, I'd say the batteries. Pictures are of the shutter curtain. I've never seen one on a Nikon up close, so I don't now if it's totally closed or partially open. Good night folks!

 

[mshchem]

Yeah try batteries, the shutter looks normal, the streaks where the two little arms travel look quite worn. Either fresh quality alkaline batteries, in the handy 8 pack will make it go or not.

 

[vicvalis]

Yeah, batteries did the trick. Now I'll try running a roll of film through it.

 

[awty]

Have you set it on multiple exposures?
Put it on single exposure and all will be good.

 

[Chan Tran]

Yeah, batteries did the trick. Now I'll try running a roll of film through it.

The rechargeable batteries have too low voltage and that very likely to happen as I suspected in the beginning. What confused me was that the battery indicator indicates that the voltage is good. Perhaps the camera battery level indicator needs calibration.

 

[mshchem]

Yeah, batteries did the trick. Now I'll try running a roll of film through it.

 

[vicvalis]

It's not the most sensitive-looking battery indicator in the world... full, half, empty. Batteries were were full, but not putting out enough juice to complete the cycle.

 

[mshchem]

It's not the most sensitive-looking battery indicator in the world... full, half, empty. Batteries were were full, but not putting out enough juice to complete the cycle.

The battery meters go from full to flat pretty quickly. You may have 1 cell out of 8 that's given up, keeping it from working.
I bought a case of cheap LED flashlights for around the house, with alkaline batteries they will blind you, NiMh are quite dim.
The F5 is designed to run on a NiMh battery pack, I have never opened up one of the original Nikon rechargeable packs, they have ordinary cells inside. Not sure if these packs have more than 8 cells??

 

[Sharktooth]

I've taken the Nikon rechargeable battery pack apart a while ago, with the intent of replacing the batteries. There are actually 10 cells in these packs. They are slightly shorter than AA cells. I believe they are 4/5 AA cells, but they don't appear to be made anymore. The 10 cells (10 x 1.2V) provide 12 volts, which is the same as 8 regular alkaline AA batteries.

If you put 8 NiMH batteries in the regular battery holder, then you only get (8 x 1.2V) 9.6 V nominally. This is right near the low battery threshold of the camera. Freshly charged NiMH batteries will usually provide more than 1.2V, so you're safe for a short while, but once they start to drain you'll suddenly get below the low battery threshold.

Since I couldn't rebuild the rechargeable battery pack, I've added a 9th battery holder to the regular battery holder. There's just enough space to get a single AA battery holder near the latching end. You have to trim the add-on plastic holder quit a bit to minimize any possible interference. I used a small piece of film to act as insulator for the terminal wire ends, so it can fit between the end of one of the regular batteries and the holder terminal. I scotch tape the add-on holder to the regular holder to keep it in place. That allows me to use 9 NiMH batteries in a regular battery holder, to provides 10.8V nominally, which seems to work well for a reasonable amount of time.

 

[vicvalis]

I've seen a few pages on DIY 3d printed holders, and the other day I came across a battery maker who provides cells that are listed as parts for the Nikon F5. Unfortunately, I lost the url to the page, and won't be back at work until Tuesday to look at the browser history.

 

[vicvalis]

Here we go! According to the company, the MN-30 uses these cells.

ESP-0-85-000A - SHAVER NIMH Battery with solder tags

www.espspecialbatteries.co.uk

Sounds like they once upon a time did rebuilds, but I see n mention of it now. If I ever get my hands on a MN-30, I'll have to see what's inside.

jeff

 

[mshchem]

Here we go! According to the company, the MN-30 uses these cells.

ESP-0-85-000A - SHAVER NIMH Battery with solder tags

www.espspecialbatteries.co.uk

Sounds like they once upon a time did rebuilds, but I see n mention of it now. If I ever get my hands on a MN-30, I'll have to see what's inside.

jeff

Yep, I find 4/5 AA on Ebay. I have a couple packs that are rebuilt, now these are bad. The technique was the packs are sawed open along the sides and then glued back together. I need to see if I can find these.

 

[Sharktooth]

I've got 4 of the MN-30 battery packs, and they've all gone dead. I opened up a couple of them, which isn't that difficult, but I wasn't able to find the 4/5 AA batteries at the time. The ones reference here are in the U.K., but with shipping and import fees it doesn't make sense.

A single AA battery holder cost me a couple of bucks, and it wasn't too difficult to modify it to work with the regular holder. That's what I use now in the F5 when I want to use NiMH batteries.

 

[Sharktooth]

Here's a picture of the inside of a MN-30 battery pack. It's not a pretty sight.

There are 6 cells (two layers of 3 cells) at the locking tab end, and 4 cells at the interior end. Nasty corrosion everywhere.

 

[Sharktooth]

Here we go! According to the company, the MN-30 uses these cells.

ESP-0-85-000A - SHAVER NIMH Battery with solder tags

www.espspecialbatteries.co.uk

Sounds like they once upon a time did rebuilds, but I see n mention of it now. If I ever get my hands on a MN-30, I'll have to see what's inside.

jeff

Thanks for the link to the 4/5 AA batteries. I did some searching today, and found some available now here in Canada. When I did this search a couple of years ago, I couldn't find anything available. It was probably due to the supply situation during the pandemic, rather than them being discontinued.

I did some rough calculations based on current pricing. 10 cells purchased here in Canada are going to cost me around $70. It's going to take some time to do all the soldering, and figure out how to insulate some of the contacting ends. Then I'll have to find out if the existing circuitry still works, or if it's been damaged by corrosion. At this point it doesn't seem worth it, since the single add-on battery holder works well, and I can use regular NiMH AA batteries that are readily available, and can also be used for other things as well.

 

[Chan Tran]

Thanks for the link to the 4/5 AA batteries. I did some searching today, and found some available now here in Canada. When I did this search a couple of years ago, I couldn't find anything available. It was probably due to the supply situation during the pandemic, rather than them being discontinued.

I did some rough calculations based on current pricing. 10 cells purchased here in Canada are going to cost me around $70. It's going to take some time to do all the soldering, and figure out how to insulate some of the contacting ends. Then I'll have to find out if the existing circuitry still works, or if it's been damaged by corrosion. At this point it doesn't seem worth it, since the single add-on battery holder works well, and I can use regular NiMH AA batteries that are readily available, and can also be used for other things as well.

I think you should try to rebuild the pack. I have used the 9th battery but it's still doesn't last long and really I don't care about battery cost especially for a film camera as the film cost a whole lot more but the MN-30 can get 8fps that is what I think worth it.

 

[MartinCrabtree]

I looked for an MN-30 for awhile. Honestly I just use Lithium batteries. Doesn't really seem worth it to me for half a frame per second. I do want another battery tray for backup and quick change when they do go.

OP glad you got it sorted. Gotta love an easy cheap fix.

 

[Sharktooth]

I looked for an MN-30 for awhile. Honestly I just use Lithium batteries. Doesn't really seem worth it to me for half a frame per second. I do want another battery tray for backup and quick change when they do go.

OP glad you got it sorted. Gotta love an easy cheap fix.

Lithium batteries are probably the most sensible approach. They also save a little weight compared to the others as well. I avoid using alkaline batteries in cameras and flashes, since they're prone to leaking, and I don't always remember to remove them when I'm done. I now use "pre-charged" NiMH batteries for just about everything that uses AA or AAA batteries. I can just leave them in the device, since the good ones don't leak, and they hold their charge for years. I have a lot of them now, and it's just more convenient to use NiMH batteries for everything, even though Lithium might be better for an F5.

heh heh, and who in the heck needs 8fps these days? https://www.photrio.com/forum/threa...der-drive-on-a-film-camera-these-days.195158/

 

[mshchem]

Just to add to the story. I have found lithium ion rechargeable cells, AA, online. These things use a small circuit to step down the higher voltage of a lithium cell to a constant 1.5V. Amazon sells these things with a charger.
There's raving reviews and bad reviews. Seems like poor, "China made" quality is the cause of the bad reviews. One person reported that 1 out of 8 is DOA.

My take is if I need something to use that I can count on it's going to be fresh Alkaline cells, the rest of the time I will use the Japan made Panasonic Eneloop 1.2 V NiMh cells.
I have old MN-30 packs, these were re-celled in 2014, maybe I will play with them someday.

 

[vicvalis]

And on a side note, it's a bright day outside, so shot half a roll of film in various exposure modes. Tomorrow it's expected to rain, so maybe I have time to finish the roll in cloudy weather. Had an "issue" with random exposures after I trip the shutter, but then I remembered to lock the side shutter release. D'oh!

 

[mshchem]

And on a side note, it's a bright day outside, so shot half a roll of film in various exposure modes. Tomorrow it's expected to rain, so maybe I have time to finish the roll in cloudy weather. Had an "issue" with random exposures after I trip the shutter, but then I remembered to lock the side shutter release. D'oh!

I'm go for bike ride now. To hell with photos