The electronic illuminator is interesting. I think it's an LED behind a turquoise green cover. The light source is point-shaped. Maybe @koraks knows more about this.
Be careful not to detach the conductive rubbers from the LCD and ensure that the LCD is then installed sideways. In my example I saw impressions of the contact rows in the conductive rubbers, which helped with orientation.
Erratum:
Be careful not to detach the conductive rubbers from the LCD and ensure that the LCD is then installed accurate to side. In my example I saw impressions of the contact rows in the conductive rubbers, which helped with orientation.
I incorporated your correction into the original post for you.
The complex structure of the DP-20 viewfinder.
That's just too many parts. Makes me appreciate an old Exakta finder.
"Our life is frittered away by detail. Simplify, simplify, simplify! I say, let your affairs be as two or three, and not a hundred or a thousand; instead of a million count half a dozen, and keep your accounts on your thumb-nail." -- Thoreau
f4 is nice because of the knobs!
Andreas,
THANK YOU so much for posting this. I too had the body LCD bleed, and after finding your post, I was able to replace my (from a donor body as well) LCD in 10 minutes. So, I joined the forum to say thanks.
View attachment 363926
The LED, the small dot in the middle of the illuminator, is probably cast into the turquoise green mask.
You could replace a micro incandescent bulb with an SMD LED (something like 0805 size) and a series dropping resistor, assuming you've got enough voltage to work with, which I suspect is the case. A 0805 LED plus something like a 0603-sized SMD resistor will likely fit in the same volume as the original tiny incandescent bulb. Enameled wire can be used for leads.Would it be possible to replace the F3's "grain of wheat" incandescent lamp with the F4's LED?
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