That's what I use...CAIG Laboratories DeoxIT contact cleaner.
https://www.amazon.com/DeOxit-Clean...AIG+Laboratories+DeoxIT&qid=1602636680&sr=8-3I have never seen DeoxIT in my area. I use CRC QD Electrical Contact Cleaner. https://www.crcindustries.com/products/qd-174-electronic-cleaner-11-wt-oz-05103.html
If cleaning the contacts the normal way does not work then more, but light abrasion may do the trick. Turn to the world of railway modelling where you can but what look like small paint brushes with a flat eand where the hairs should be. This is usually fibre glass and the sole purpose for this is to rub on electrical pick up points and remove a build up of a sometimes invisible grime that stops power from flowing from one point to another. It will not damage metal but is a sure way of removing dirt on small components.
A Dremel would be useful. Accessory kits include wire brushes, grinding tips of various weights, to the lightest of polishing brushes. As ever, gently does it, and little and often is better than attacking the thing.If cleaning the contacts the normal way does not work then more, but light abrasion may do the trick.
A. If you don't have or have access to a Dremel tool and accessories, it will likely cost you more than what you are repairing.A Dremel would be useful. Accessory kits include wire brushes, grinding tips of various weights, to the lightest of polishing brushes. As ever, gently does it, and little and often is better than attacking the thing.
Try without the foil; the foil may be shorting out half the supply voltage.the shutter is slow as hell but i think thats because of the aluminium foil instead of the proper contacts, i will get help fixing the contacts properly and that should do it
the mirror moves
May be the foam bumper at the top of the mirror chamber has deteriorated and become sticky and is slow to release the mirror. Or, maybe you just need to exercise it if it hasn't been used in a while!i have removed the foil and tested it, it still works, and the aforementioned "Aperture coupling lever" does move when i press on the "Depth-of-field preview button" so it does have a mechanical and electrical component!
the mirror still seems to have a slight problem as it takes its time to come back down after each exposure
The other possibility is that the cleaning was only partially successful with some high resistance crud still present creating a voltage drop under load. I strongly suspect that the supply voltage is low based on the symptoms you have described.i only put that in for a few seconds
i think the camera is just rusty and i might have had it set on af, as i said im new to all this, i have been testing all the settings now and it works nicely, i still think i should probably clean it a few times more but it seems fine now
i'm so happy and thank u all for the great help
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