Nikon F3: Ending 2023 With A Comeback To Analog Photography.

[Andreas Thaler]

Always prefer silver oxide (SR44) batteries where they are available, over alkaline (LR44) for cameras and meters. Alkalines loose voltage over time and will slowly begin to give you incrementally greater metering errors. Silver Oxide hold their voltage steady until they are ready to fail, then fail all at once, so you know right away the battery needs replacing.

I have had no problems with alkaline batteries.

I use 1/3N 3 volt batteries in the F3:

Duracell Specialty 1/3N High Power Lithium Battery 3V

Rely on Duracell's Specialty 1/3N lithium batteries, ideal for your digital cameras, portable lights, medical devices, security devices and others.

www.duracell.co.uk

 

[chuckroast]

Apart from the fact that SR44 may no longer be available for environmental reasons, I have had no problems with alkaline batteries. I use 1/3N 3 volt batteries in the F3:

Duracell Specialty 1/3N High Power Lithium Battery 3V

Rely on Duracell's Specialty 1/3N lithium batteries, ideal for your digital cameras, portable lights, medical devices, security devices and others.

www.duracell.co.uk

Lithiums are also good. It's interesting you're worried about silver oxide as an environmental issue but not lithium ... just sayin' ...

 

[Andreas Thaler]

In my opinion, the F3 is only complete with its exclusive Motor Drive MD-4. This means it fits perfectly in the hand and you no longer have to remember to cock the shutter.

The MD-4 is also a technically high-quality masterpiece that can withstand the highest loads.

Nikon MD-4 Motor Drive - Index Page

www.mir.com.my

Nikon MD-4 Motor Drive: A dissection

I wanted to know exactly and dismantled my practice MD-4. Actually, at first I was only interested in how I could remove the battery contact plate in the battery compartment. Another MD-4 has traces of corrosion at this point that I cannot satisfactorily remove from the outside. And then I...

www.photrio.com

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Lithiums are also good. It's interesting you're worried about silver oxide as an environmental issue but not lithium ... just sayin' ...

I just corrected that earlier

 

[Andreas Thaler]

If something doesn't work on an electronic SLR, the batteries or contact problems are always the first suspects. Electronics cleaner ensures perfect contacts.

Have fun with your F3!

 

[BrianShaw]

In my opinion, the F3 is only complete with its exclusive Motor Drive MD-4. This means it fits perfectly in the hand and you no longer have to remember to cock the shutter.

The MD-4 is also a technically high-quality masterpiece that can withstand the highest loads.

Nikon MD-4 Motor Drive - Index Page

www.mir.com.my

Nikon MD-4 Motor Drive: A dissection

I wanted to know exactly and dismantled my practice MD-4. Actually, at first I was only interested in how I could remove the battery contact plate in the battery compartment. Another MD-4 has traces of corrosion at this point that I cannot satisfactorily remove from the outside. And then I...

www.photrio.com

… and it alleviates that pesky decision of silver oxide vs lithium batteries in the camera as the MD-4 fully powers both motor drive and body.

 

[GregY]

Yes, but you then have no/no complete control over the exposure times. And controlling an SLR with a handheld exposure meter requires a particularly high level of motivation

 

[Andreas Thaler]

… and it alleviates that pesky decision of silver oxide vs lithium batteries in the camera as the MD-4 fully powers both motor drive and body.

So an elegant solution - which adds some weight to the scales …

 

[chuckroast]

If something doesn't work on an electronic SLR, the batteries or contact problems are always the first suspects. Electronics cleaner ensures perfect contacts.

Have fun with your F3!

The best stuff I have ever found for cleaning electronic contacts and wipers is Deoxit, the stuff is magically good (and I've been installing and repairing electronics at various scales for 50 years or so).

One does not wildly spray this stuff about - you don't want an oily film all over your camera or pentaprism. You soak a q-tip with the stuff and surgically apply it to the required area.

 

[Sirius Glass]

The F3 has no known weak points apart from the LCD in the viewfinder. The LCD may fade or individual digits may fail. The cause is probably corrosion of the LCD contacts.

LCDs are no longer available as spare parts, but a display block from a donor F3 can be used.

The usual answer from the workshops is „no spare parts“, then you just do it yourself, it’s not too difficult.

The reason I say this is because an LCD that no longer works is a death sentence for the camera, at least it has very limited use. That doesn't have to be the case

Nikon F3/T: LCD replaced

A project that has occupied me for years without being able to tackle it - for lack of a replacement display and know-how. Now it's implemented 😀 With my most beautiful F3/T (never used before), I had to watch the LCD display in the viewfinder slowly but steadily disappear. At first, only...

www.photrio.com

I agree. If the camera has problems then have it CLA'd. I was pointing out that a used camera that has an unknown provenance may need to be CLA'd and so I always account for that when buying one unless it comes from KEH because if needed they will provide it.

 

[chuckroast]

Yes, but you then have no/no complete control over the exposure times. And controlling an SLR with a handheld exposure meter requires a particularly high level of motivation

I have a perfectly functioning - almost like new - F3. But I also have a couple of Fs with plain prisms and I don't find a handheld meter to be a particular bother. I find that, for many things, a metering app on my phone is sufficient, and I can easily mount a Revini meter on the hot shoe adapter. For serious stuff, I use a spot meter anyway - although for serious stuff I am mostly not shooting 35mm.

 

[Les Sarile]

So an elegant solution - which adds some weight to the scales …

If you use the Energizer Lithium AA batteries, it will be quite a bit lighter, last much longer - both shelf life and number of rolls, will not leak and will hold up even in extreme cold.

 

[Les Sarile]

Yes, but you then have no/no complete control over the exposure times. And controlling an SLR with a handheld exposure meter requires a particularly high level of motivation

Given the exceedingly generous overexposure latitude of most all color negative and b&w film . . . who really needs a meter for daylight shooting . . .

 

[Chan Tran]

Given the exceedingly generous overexposure latitude of most all color negative and b&w film . . . who really needs a meter for daylight shooting . . .

And it's more fun shooting without a meter. So I really never care for the Wein cell and stuff with cameras that need mercury battery. I simply use them without the meter.

 

[Chan Tran]

So an elegant solution - which adds some weight to the scales …

Nikon did that because at the time the F3 was released so many people a skeptical with battery powered camera. They said your camera will be dead when you need it the most.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Nikon did that because at the time the F3 was released so many people a skeptical with battery powered camera. They said your camera will be dead when you need it the most.

But the MD-4 has eight batteries so the F3 still depends on electricity.

What does this make better?

 

[Andreas Thaler]

And it's more fun shooting without a meter. So I really never care for the Wein cell and stuff with cameras that need mercury battery. I simply use them without the meter.

The reason I shoot with an SLR is to have as much control as possible over the result. This also includes fitting the subject contrast into the gradation curve of the film as best as possible. This requires controllable exposure measurement and this is only precise with a light meter.

 

[Chan Tran]

But the MD-4 has eight batteries so the F3 still depends on electricity.

What does this make better?

With the AA cells you're unlikely running out of battery power. Also in the cold you can use the MN-2 NiCad which can take the cold well. That's their argument.

 

[Chan Tran]

The reason I shoot with an SLR is to have as much control as possible over the result. This also includes fitting the subject contrast into the gradation curve of the film as best as possible. This requires controllable exposure measurement and this is only precise with a light meter.

If you need precise control then the center weighted meter isn't good enough. So you still have to bring your spot meter. Even for camera like the F5 I rarely use the spot meter mode. When I need to use the spot meter I use a hand held spot meter. Also as I said camera that requires mercury cell meter are not accurate even when new. So with those I prefer to use them without the meter. Besides those cameras are old and it's hard to keep the shutter speed very accurate. So precise controls with those are much more than just a meter. It's possible though.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

With the AA cells you're unlikely running out of battery power. Also in the cold you can use the MN-2 NiCad which can take the cold well. That's their argument.

For cold operation there is the small Nikon DB-2 Anti-Cold Batterie Pack (2 x AA) which you put in your warm jacket pocket. This eliminates the argument for attaching the heavy MD-4.

I don't assume people bought the Motor Drive with rechearcheable batteries and charging station just for this purpose. If there is concern that an electronic camera may fail, the solution can only be a mechanical alternative operation.

I think the 1/60 s mechanical emergency release was Nikon's argument to reassure customers.

Nikon DB-2 Anti-Cold Battery Pack - Container -

NIKON-FILM - Nikon DB-2 Anti-Cold Battery Pack - Container . A large Collection of Nikon Film Cameras Lenses and Accessorioes for sale.

nikon-film.com

 

[Mick Fagan]

I have the Nikon DB-2 Anti Cold Battery Pack container. It is designed to operate the F3 in temperatures well below zero ºC in preference to any motor drive being used, this is to stop or at least reduce the possibility of static electrical lines on the film as the fast movement of film in ultra dry conditions that are often associated with extreme cold.

One limiting factor of the DB-2 is the cord is only 800mm long, which, when you run the lead up your sleeve and into an inner pocket, isn't quite long enough to allow you to place the camera body inside your centrally zippered jacket opening in-between exposures to keep it somewhat marginally warmer to use. This was the only minor limitation I've encountered in my few times using an F3 body in very cold weather; -30ºC and a bit lower, plus howling wind.

Some friends went to Antarctica with at least one F3 body equipped with a modified DB-2 unit. They re-made the lead to around 1150mm in length, as that seemed to work for the clothing they were wearing. Another downside of the design, is that the hole for the batteries, and consequentially where the DB-2 goes into, is right alongside the tripod hole in the base of the camera. I understand that at least on of their dogsleds was equipped with a very quick release tripod like mount, as any tripod, unless built like a brick outhouse, would be blown away.

The rechargeable battery pack for the MD4 Motor Drive, was mainly bought for the extra speed it could drive the camera at. Six frames per second with a fully charged rechargeable battery pack was possible; just.... But; you couldn't see or focus what you were pointing at, because you needed to lock the mirror up to attain that high frame exposure rate.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

I have the Nikon DB-2 Anti Cold Battery Pack container. It is designed to operate the F3 in temperatures well below zero ºC in preference to any motor drive being used, this is to stop or at least reduce the possibility of static electrical lines on the film as the fast movement of film in ultra dry conditions that are often associated with extreme cold.

One limiting factor of the DB-2 is the cord is only 800mm long, which, when you run the lead up your sleeve and into an inner pocket, isn't quite long enough to allow you to place the camera body inside your centrally zippered jacket opening in-between exposures to keep it somewhat marginally warmer to use. This was the only minor limitation I've encountered in my few times using an F3 body in very cold weather; -30ºC and a bit lower, plus howling wind.

Some friends went to Antarctica with at least one F3 body equipped with a modified DB-2 unit. They re-made the lead to around 1150mm in length, as that seemed to work for the clothing they were wearing. Another downside of the design, is that the hole for the batteries, and consequentially where the DB-2 goes into, is right alongside the tripod hole in the base of the camera. I understand that at least on of their dogsleds was equipped with a very quick release tripod like mount, as any tripod, unless built like a brick outhouse, would be blown away.

The rechargeable battery pack for the MD4 Motor Drive, was mainly bought for the extra speed it could drive the camera at. Six frames per second with a fully charged rechargeable battery pack was possible; just.... But; you couldn't see or focus what you were pointing at, because you needed to lock the mirror up to attain that high frame exposure rate.

Thank you, Mick, for your experience report. That's very helpful!

I have the Nikon DB-4 battery pack for the DX-1 viewfinder of the Nikon F3AF, new old stock.

Don't ask me how I found it

A photo dealer in the US who I urged to send me the DB-4 to Vienna. It's so rare that I would have paid almost any price for it

The DB-4 is responsible for the DX-1 viewfinder of the Nikon F3 AF, which, like the DB-2, supplies the autofocus drive with two AA cells.

Nikon Batteriefach DB-1 DB-2 DB-3 DB-4 DB-5 DB-6 DB1 DB2 DB3 DB4 DB5 DB6

Für die Kameras EM bis FG, F3 und FM bis FA ist das Batteriefach DB-2 vorgesehen. Es wird anstelle des Deckels ins Batteriefach der Kameras eingeschraubt,

www.digitalb2.de

(German)

 

[Les Sarile]

The reason I shoot with an SLR is to have as much control as possible over the result. This also includes fitting the subject contrast into the gradation curve of the film as best as possible. This requires controllable exposure measurement and this is only precise with a light meter.

If you're shooting most color negative or b&w film, you will have so much latitude to work with. Below is up to +10 overexposure of Kodak Portra 400 and with a tiny bit of post work I show what you can get from it. I also show Kodak Ektar 100 up to +5 not realizing at that time that even though it's a relatively contrasty film, it also had latitude to spare. Digi files OTOH - even RAW, are completely unusable past +3.

Kodak Portra 400 overexposure by Les DMess, on Flickr

Another example of this is I came up to a scene that my in-camera meter recommended to expose at 1/60 but given the very low water flow I figured I needed at least a 2 second exposure to get that velvety flow. Since I shoot a latitude test of most films I use, I knew I would have no problems working with the results from Fuji 100 and I didn't.

Fuji 100-26-26B by Les DMess, on Flickr

So for daylight shooting conditions, I don't need a meter and I doubt I'm even anywhere near the extreme ends of these films. Likely my worst guess is well within 3 -5 stops of in-camera's meter and that is plenty for me.

BTW, here's the full test I did of Kodak Portra 400 . . .

Kodak Portra 400 exposure range by Les DMess, on Flickr

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Anyway, film is about the shadows, which must have enough drawing. And I prefer not to rely on reserves, but to measure specifically.

Your examples seem to have a relatively small overall contrast ratio, so shadows and highlights are not critical.

I take photos in the city, where I get very high contrast ratios in the sun, which requires reliable exposure measurement.

 

[Les Sarile]

Anyway, film is about the shadows, which must have enough drawing. And I prefer not to rely on reserves, but to measure specifically.

Your examples seem to have a relatively small overall contrast ratio, so shadows and highlights are not critical.

I take photos in the city, where I get very high contrast ratios in the sun, which requires reliable exposure measurement.

Just to be sure, I am not saying not to use a meter for more accurate exposure measurement but just suggesting to explore the latitude of film that is available. I recall an old article in Modern or Popular Photography that did as much back when.

BTW, even the relatively contrasty film Kodak Ektar 100 used at high noon has room to spare in the shadows as shown below.

Kodak Ektar 100 high contrast scene by Les DMess, on Flickr