Nikon coolscan 9000 ED scan times

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Liam Henry

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Hey guys,

Im looking to buy a nikon coolscan 9000 ED and im trying to find some more information of how long it takes to scan 35mm and 120 film at lo resolution.

I can find information about how long it takes at 4000dpi but really need to find out the lower res scan times for me to be able to size whether it will work for my business .

Thanks very much
 

destroya

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what resolution are you looking for? how many passes? with ICE on or not? i can tell you that a preview scan, which is done at the lowest resolution and I believe 1 pass, takes less tahn 10 seconds for 35mm and less than 30 seconds for 120 at 6x9. if you use fine mode than it goes up by about a factor of 3 if i remember correctly. not sure its a linear time increase based on the number of passes

john
 

Les Sarile

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I have a Coolscan 9000 and I use Nikonscan on a Windows Vista so let me know if this setup works for you and what you would like to know specifically.
Scan time for 35mm and 6X9 - resolution, with/without ICE normal or fine, b&w, positive or negative film.
For 35mm I have the 2 X 6 frame strip holder and the 6 slide holder.
For medium format, I have the glass and regular holder.

I've also owned the 5000 and along with the 9000 I have scanned thousands of various frames of films over the years. So let me know what use of this scanner you think will affect your business and I will try to provide answers where I can.
 

Oren Grad

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Further to what Les posted, need to be more specific about what you're asking for - scan time varies by up to a factor of 4 or 5 depending on which, if any, of the hardware/software processing features (SIE, ROC, ICE, GEM, DEE) are enabled.
 
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Liam Henry

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Hi guys thanks for your replies.

I didn't go into specifics as I was looking for a broad range of timings. I found a document (attached) that showed all scan times with each setting on and off for 4000dpi so was hoping that someone could point me in the direction of a similar thing :smile:

I would love to know timings for 35mm & 120mm at the lowest resolution with all settings off and all settings on, so i can get a better understanding of how long each film is going to take to fully scan. I will be using this for a new film lab so timings for this can determine what sort of turnaround we can offer :smile:

Cheers guys
 

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EdSawyer

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If you are going to bother scanning it, and with that scanner in particular (which is an excellent piece), why would you *not* scan at highest res? If you want fast/lo-res, there's better choices.
 

138S

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how long it takes to scan 35mm and 120 film at lo resolution.

Another source of information:

https://www.photrio.com/forum/attachments/screenshot-2019-12-08-at-16-23-36-png.236015/

Scan 1 slide 4000 dpi with auto focus and auto exposure 1:05 min
Scan 5 slides 4000 dpi with auto focus and auto exposure 5:40 min
Scan 1 slide with 4000 dpi with ICE, auto focus and auto exposure 1:30 min
Scan 5 slides with 4000 dpi with ICE, auto focus and auto exposure 7:40 min


To speed up the job I'd recommend you consider another way, this is using DSLR scanning, today this is becoming a viable choice. You may use, for example, a 61MPix Sony A7RIV (or even a cheaper used/older model) with the right lens optimal for close up work. This will deliver the same quality than the 9000 ED, and it scans instantly. You would need an stand and a backlight, tethering makes workflow extremly efficient. An advantage of the 9000ED is that it has ICE to remove dust/etc. With the DSLR you use an HEPA air purifier to not have dust, but ICE also corrects scratches.
 

138S

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will not be the same quality, cams use Bayer sensors and scanners do not.^^

The DSLR I mentioned has pixel shift, so if you want it can take the R,G and B readings for each particular "photosite", so interpolation from bayer array is not done because we have real RGB readings for each sample, like scanners.

There are scanners that use Bayer sensors, to mention a remarkable one, Fuji Frontier, which also has sensor piezo shifting.

In most of the cases the DSLR shifting would be irrelevant for scanning, but in some cases it avoids color artifacts in the contrasty edges.

To get all possible image quality in very sharp MF shots the DSLR would have to take several shots to be stitched, to scan 35mm film the DSLR scanner would take most IQ with a single shot. A handheld shot won't usually require sitiching to get all quiality.

An important factor in a DSLR scanner is how we keep film flat and in focus, another factor is selecting the right lens that performs optimally in 1:1 or 1:2 magnifications.
 
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