a pair of needle nosed pliers and a file will do instead of a spanner wrench, big pliers for large rings, small pliers for small rings.
You file the pliers ends for exact fit in ring...
And take great care
The method used in a factory is a special pipe tool with two pins ground or inset to fit the ring notches and a handle at other end. Much less likely to slip when the piece is an inner ring as the pipe is sized to be constrained by the side walls. Similarly on an outer ring the pipe is just sized to clear the ring internally.A piece of sheetmetal ground/filed to clear the glass and fit into the spanner notches is a far better solution. I'll forgo taking something apart rather than use the pliers approach, it's no substitute for a spanner and a very good way to ruin both the pliers and whatever you are trying to take apart.
The method used in a factory is a special pipe tool with two pins ground or inset to fit the ring notches and a handle at other end. Much less likely to slip when the piece is an inner ring as the pipe is sized to be constrained by the side walls. Similarly on an outer ring the pipe is just sized to clear the ring internally.
A spanner wrench is a poor substitute.
Not damaged anything yet with pliers.
-snip-
I'd rather hear more from Lamar, than babble myself
Yes, I wonder what he's up to... perhaps taking pictures and developing film.
We'll have to talk him into getting some more cameras and lenses...
I wish I was taking more pictures.......... Actually today I had to catch up with all the work that I got behind on the last two days because I was playing with my cameras. Real life intervenes with playtime yet again...... Based on yours and q_x's advice earlier (thank you to both of you) I decided it was best to keep the 3C. The seller gave me half the price I paid back since the slow speeds don't work. I think it is a fair deal. I did manage to work with the shutter enough to get everything from 1/25th and faster plus B working reliably. I actually put it in front of a little space heater fan to get it warmed up and that seemed to help even after it cooled back down to room temperature. I have a roll of film in it now but have only managed to get a few shots so far. I'm going look for a good repair service and price having it CLA'ed. I believe that is my best option, stick with these 2 bodies and maintain them. I feel a case of Russian GAS coming on though...... I ordered a Universal turret viewfinder last night........ Looking at 35mm lenses now too...... does it only get worse?????
Once again it is a busy work day so not much time for cameras.
q_x,
I do want to try the oil on my 3C you mention as soon as I get through this roll of film. I have some good gun oil and I could apply it using the tip of a small screwdriver as you suggest and put off the CLA for a bit. I think the CLA will cost more than the camera. Will gun oil work just as well? If not I will need to buy some good machine oil.
As both of you indicate the Zorki's seem to have a great cost / performance ratio. I prefer low cost to luxury so I'm more than willing to put up with a few anomalies. I have two bodies, two lenses, and two cases for less than one BGN condition Nikon F body only and way, way less than the price for one of the Nikon rangefinders. Those things are priced high.
I'll just stay away from any oil for now until I can get it cleaned. I knew not to use the WD-40. As far as the CLA, half of me wants to dig into it and the other half says to send it off.
I had no idea the F's were that expensive new. I bought an F Photomic FTN a couple of years back for $140 in great condition, meter works great and everything. Since then I've shot more frames with it and my F2 than any of my other bodies combined, including digital if you don't count paid work. F2's are a different story. I went through several F2's before I actually found one I didn't send back. Most were badly worn or had issues with the power switch or meter. I finally kept an F2SB that was fairly clean. The meter didn't work so they cut the price to $79. I had to send the meter off to Sover Wong to get fixed but it works like new now. All totaled I paid the average going price for an excellent condition F2SB but the fact that the meter is essentially new makes it a good deal. I wonder how many of these new digital cameras will be around and working in 40 or 50 years........ Will there still even be file support for them?
Today's digital cameras getting into their 40? None, not even a single one will make that long. The reason being all the crucial electronic components will simply get old, and there will be no replacement parts to salvage in 10-15 years. And it's not "old camera", when it's crucial 30% was replaced. Does anyone make replacements for late 90-s CCD sensors? Not a single model is being produced more, than a couple of years without revision. In 40 years, however, I expect the gear to have adaptable qualities. You want T50, it becomes like T50, you want D3000, it becomes like D3000, just add water... It kinda starts now, with 3D printing and flexible electronics.
Modern, computerized society lives on a very thin and temporal hologram. This occasionally breaks, like when to run a drum scanner, you need to set up a VM with Win 95 on it and purchase SCSI interface card. Wait for PCI and PCIMCIA to become our past and it's all done. Same with USB, memory cards...
We live without much attachment to items and permanence, caring more about comfort, quality of service and high performance - this is what you are as a society, and this is where we're going as well. Which is all wrong and wasteful, but we kinda accept the fact, that this is how we want to live, and this is how fast the world turns. Noone curses scientists for their discoveries or engineers for making things perform better. So, I think, apart from museums, there will be no 40 years old digital cameras in working condition.
I think Zorkis are good cameras to start learning to service such stuff: crucial elements, like slow speed escapement, are "encapsulated", mechanisms are fairy simple compared to any advanced SLRs. And this is what will survive next 50 years or so. One indeed needs some strange materials and esoteric knowledge: curtain cloth, ribbons, adhesives, lubricants, solvents, and how to use it all... But isn't that the case for other cameras too? Maybe Smenas would be better to start indeed, but what to CLA in a Smena, huh? There's hardly anything in it.
Since you have one camera working, if money is not the problem, I'd rather put some lube into the rollers and pay to have the other camera thoroughly serviced in a couple of years. 5-10 years of peaceful photography is what you pay for. And this is exactly what I've done (not to justify myself, I just think it's reasonable).
Lamar, Welcome to the world of imaging without a ground glass!
The photos look OK, there's something wrong with corner sharpness (there's a twig disturbing the frame in the upper right corner for example), but it's maybe me being picky. This is how I see a Jupiter should work, it's even too sharp sometimes, mine is way softer.
Also, there should be something like 0.6mm of washers in the film chamber, removable, but it's usually not enough to fix this issue.
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