New to Me Nikkor 450mm

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ic-racer

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Recently received this nice 450mm Nikkor. Have not had a chance to try it yet.

First item is to check the shutter.

This shutter turned out to be fantastic. All speeds either 0EV deviation or +0.1EV except for the fastest speed. 1/125 was 1/110 at +0.2EV deviation.

Screen Shot 2025-05-22 at 4.27.47 PM.png
IMG_3844.JPG
 
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ic-racer

ic-racer

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My first negatives were exposed on Arista 400 using a Shen-Hao.

IMG_3847.JPG
IMG_3848.JPG
 

David Lindquist

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Recently received this nice 450mm Nikkor. Have not had a chance to try it yet.

First item is to check the shutter.

This shutter turned out to be fantastic. All speeds either 0EV deviation or +0.1EV except for the fastest speed. 1/125 was 1/110 at +0.2EV deviation.

View attachment 399155 View attachment 399150
Nice score! Impressed with the shutter speed test results. Please tell us about that shutter speed tester.
David
 
OP
OP
ic-racer

ic-racer

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Nice score! Impressed with the shutter speed test results. Please tell us about that shutter speed tester.
David

 

David Lindquist

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Thank you. Very impressive piece of work.

David
 

DREW WILEY

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Its the only Nikkor M I don't have. But I can't justify buying one this late in life. I already have a 450 Fuji C. I just use the ole Calumet shutter tester. Only the highest speed with any of my own M's was significantly off. 1/6 of a stop at most variance at any other speeds. Great quality control.
 

Rod Klukas

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Remember,

When testing a Leaf shutter, Copal and similar, you should stop it down about 1 stop. Always make several warm up shots at any particular speed as the pin inside that is linked to the outside indicator, sometimes does not settle on the true speed until it 'bounces' once or twice.

The 450mm is an excellent lens with much better Contrast than the Smaller Fuji. The Fuji is quite sharp, but flatter. I had the 450mm Nikon and the 600mm Fujinon C. Physically similar.

Using B&W film, I found the Fujinon negatives flatter in contrast, unless I added about 1 minute to the standard development time used with the Nikon.

Hope this is useful

Rod
 

DREW WILEY

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Yes, the tessar construction of the M can potentially have higher contrast than the airspaced 4-element dialyte construction of 450 M Fuji; but a lot has to do with how well shaded the lens is, and how resistant the inside of the bellows is to flare. I use both Nikkor M's and Fuji A's and C's for color work as well as b&w, and the contrast distinctions are rather subtle. By far the most contrasty lens I ever owned was a multicoated Kern 14 inch Dagor, with its only 4 air/glass interfaces. It was so contrasty that it was problematic for color chrome shots, so I replaced it with the single-coated version instead.

Regarding bellows flare, for example, I discovered that the standard Sinar 4x5 box bellows is much more susceptible than the earlier Norma tapered bellows when the huge image circle of the 450C came into play under certain circumstances. But in its more routine use for 8x10 format, that has never been an issue so far. I only use the 600C on 8x10, and have never had a flare issue with it; but then, I intelligently strategize the use of all my lenses, especially when pricey 8x10 color film is involved.

Of course, a good compendium shade helps a great deal because bright reflections can come from the foreground, and not just the sky, especially in mountain scenes with bright snow or ice or glacial polish in the foreground, or in the desert with bright playas.
 
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