New to me Gralab 300 Timer just stopped

Roses

A
Roses

  • 1
  • 0
  • 2
Rebel

A
Rebel

  • 0
  • 0
  • 25
Watch That First Step

A
Watch That First Step

  • 0
  • 0
  • 30
Barn Curves

A
Barn Curves

  • 0
  • 0
  • 24
Columbus Architectural Detail

A
Columbus Architectural Detail

  • 1
  • 1
  • 26

Forum statistics

Threads
197,484
Messages
2,759,793
Members
99,514
Latest member
cukon
Recent bookmarks
0

ic-racer

Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2007
Messages
16,484
Location
USA
Format
Multi Format
You need model 7-171-250R.
Screen Shot 2022-06-01 at 8.52.46 PM.png
 

AgX

Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2007
Messages
29,990
Location
Germany
Format
Multi Format
But it looks completely different.

And I am sure there is no shortage in the UK, or the EU, of used switching and non-switching lab-clocks that would just do the job, if that would be the issue.
 

Chan Tran

Subscriber
Joined
May 10, 2006
Messages
6,623
Location
Sachse, TX
Format
35mm
Your 'adapter looks like a mechanical converter from UK to US plug. What you need is a UK to US 220 to 110 voltage converter; otherwise you'll hit the US timer with 220V and destroy it. I'm just wondering why itdidn'tblow right away?

Even if the adapter convert to 120V the timer would run slow because it's designed for 60Hz. The timer has a synchroous motor and the speed is locked to the frequency of the power. And yes the adapter killed the timer.
 

ic-racer

Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2007
Messages
16,484
Location
USA
Format
Multi Format
But it looks completely different.

And I am sure there is no shortage in the UK, or the EU, of used switching and non-switching lab-clocks that would just do the job, if that would be the issue.

Yes, for some reason I could not find a black one for 220V in the catalog.
 

bdial

Subscriber
Joined
Jan 2, 2005
Messages
7,443
Location
North East U.S.
Format
Multi Format
I have a white-face Gralab 300, I like it better than the black ones. Easier to see in the safelight gloom.

For the OP, if you have a service center in the UK you might be able to get the guts of a 220v/50 Hz model swapped into yours. Though that probably wouldn't be cheaper than finding a complete one that's 220.
 

Chan Tran

Subscriber
Joined
May 10, 2006
Messages
6,623
Location
Sachse, TX
Format
35mm
I have a white-face Gralab 300, I like it better than the black ones. Easier to see in the safelight gloom.

For the OP, if you have a service center in the UK you might be able to get the guts of a 220v/50 Hz model swapped into yours. Though that probably wouldn't be cheaper than finding a complete one that's 220.

I think it's cheaper to use the newer digital timer.
 

Richard Lee

Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2006
Messages
86
Location
The English Lakes
Format
Multi Format
The gadgets that do what you need won’t run an enlarger but you could run a safelight… a 220 volt ac 50 hz to 12 volt dc… connected to a 12volt dc to 110 volt ac 60 hz converter

Like this. The cheapest ones could run the clockworks. But this one for example has max 20 watts which isn’t enough to run an enlarger. I use the GraLab timer to time developing, fixing and washing so I don’t use the sockets.

Bill,

I've recently found myself in a similar situation to the OP, and am interested to learn more about your solution to the UK power/frequency conversion problem.

My concern is that the inverter you recommended has a maximum power rating of 20 watts, while the timer (if I'm reading the specs correctly, below); churns out 600 watts:

I understand the OP intended the timer to be used solely for timing tray processes (as I do), and therefore will not be connnected to an enlarger, however, I'm unclear as to how an inverter with a 20 watt threshold is able to handle a 600 watt appliance, or how you calculated the level of 'draw'? Many thanks,


Richard


Time Range 1sec-59mins/59secs.
Maximum Wattage (Load) 600w
Maximum Resistive Load 1200w
Number of Outlets Two
Audible Options Buzzer automatically signals end of cycle
Memory None
Display Large numerals, visible in dark
Auto Reset No
Foot Switch No
Voltage 120V/60Hz (Available in 220v/50Hz)
Dimensions 7.5 x 7.5 x 2.5" (191 x 191 x 63.5 mm)
Weight Not available
 
Last edited:

Niglyn

Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2022
Messages
405
Location
Surrey, UK
Format
Analog
Bill,

I've recently found myself in a similar situation to the OP, and am interested to learn more about your solution to the UK power/frequency conversion problem.

My concern is that the inverter you recommended has a maximum power rating of 20 watts, while the timer (if I'm reading the specs correctly, below); churns out 600 watts:

I understand the OP intended the timer to be used solely for timing tray processes (as I do), and therefore will not be connnected to an enlarger, however, I'm unclear as to how an inverter with a 20 watt threshold is able to handle a 600 watt appliance, or how you calculated the level of 'draw'? Many thanks,


Richard


Time Range 1sec-59mins/59secs.
Maximum Wattage (Load) 600w
Maximum Resistive Load 1200w
Number of Outlets Two
Audible Options Buzzer automatically signals end of cycle
Memory None
Display Large numerals, visible in dark
Auto Reset No
Foot Switch No
Voltage 120V/60Hz (Available in 220v/50Hz)
Dimensions 7.5 x 7.5 x 2.5" (191 x 191 x 63.5 mm)
Weight Not available

Older stuff would have had a transformer, rather than a modern switch mode power supply. (assuming it does not run directly on mains power)
Depending on what the kit is, it maybe very easy to swap the power supply.

If it uses a synchronous motor, then this would need changing.

Where in the UK are you?
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Richard Lee

Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2006
Messages
86
Location
The English Lakes
Format
Multi Format
Depending on what the kit is, it maybe very easy to swap the power supply.

If it uses a synchronous motor, then this would need changing.

Where in the UK are you?

Hi,

I did consider that option until the timer arrived from the US, and I discovered the case is rivetted together. More hassle than I care to take on.

I currently live in Cumbria.

Richard
 

Niglyn

Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2022
Messages
405
Location
Surrey, UK
Format
Analog

Niglyn

Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2022
Messages
405
Location
Surrey, UK
Format
Analog
Can't find a schematic.
The 600W is the maximum current the relay contacts can handle, not the current used by the timer itself, which will be teeny.

The OP never did post a picture of the innards.

Removing the rivets is easy, use a metal drill bit smaller that the diameter of the rivet & it should just drill out. Use a small drill & work up. To put it back together, use self tapping screws.
 

Niglyn

Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2022
Messages
405
Location
Surrey, UK
Format
Analog
Have found a tube of the timer with the back removed.
It is just a synchronous motor.
Again turning to aliexpress, they have loads of cheap motors. Would need to know what rpm the old motor is & see if the shaft is the same diameter.


Link to my photography projects, developing timer, shutter tester etc.
 

Richard Lee

Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2006
Messages
86
Location
The English Lakes
Format
Multi Format
There are loads of cheap inverters. A quick look on AliExpress finds them.
I doubt a timer, even driving relays would pull more that 1A @120V
I X V =W. so 1Amp is only 120 watts.

12V input, to give 120W output is 120/12 = 10A. This of course is excluding conversion loss.
So a mighty 12 power supply is needed.



Interesting and informative replies for which I am sincerely grateful.

PM sent for minor clarification. Thank you.


Richard
 

Niglyn

Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2022
Messages
405
Location
Surrey, UK
Format
Analog
I'm so intrigued by these timers now, I'm happy to look any anybody's dead timer & see if I can source a suitable replacement motor.

I need need to see the actual timer, so would need to be posted to me.

Will return it, of course, either fixed or not.

Postage at owners cost.
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom