The CLA is for the shutter, the mechanical thing the lens cells are screwed into. The shutter make is not visible.Here it is. I'm almost afraid to ask what a CLA goes for on these old lenses.
That will be quite an accomplishment as the Graflok back on the Century is part of the molded Bakelite body, not a separate part that is removable. Only the focus panel is removable.I still have the Baby Speed with a nice 101mm Ektar and picked up a Century body for the Grafloc back. One of these days I’ll put them together.
One of my very first “good” cameras was a Baby Speed Graphic I bought with paper route money when I was about 12. Learned all about sheet film, holders, rangefinders, sportsfinders, focal plane vs leaf shutters, etc with it. The spring back was always a disappointment because I couldn’t use roll film with it (and couldn’t afford a Grafloc back much less a roll film holder!). Your 101mm lens is probably right for your rangefinder, so if you make sure it is calibrated at the film plane, that will take care of focusing (Kalarts are not hard to adjust). Then use the optical or sportsfinder to compose and you are good to go. I have a 2x3 focusing panel for a Grafloc back from a Graflex XL I no longer own if your eBay purchase doesn’t work out. I think I have a roll holder or two as well. I still have the Baby Speed with a nice 101mm Ektar and picked up a Century body for the Grafloc back. One of these days I’ll put them together. Have fun! (Btw, that is a Galvin 2x3 monorail linked to above. I had one and it worked pretty well with a roll film back)
Sorry to confuse- put the Ektar on the Century and calibrate the Kalart. Each body has its features.That will be quite an accomplishment as the Graflok back on the Century is part of the molded Bakelite body, not a separate part that is removable. Only the focus panel is removable.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/456854...by-graphic-2x3-2-14-x?ref=shop_home_active_28
I've bought from him. Good price, decent boards.
!@#$ Look around where I directed you. He has Copal #1 boards too.Need a copal 1 though...
I made one out of cardboard just to mock up the lens. And for giggles.
!@#$ Look around where I directed you. He has Copal #1 boards too.
!@#$ Look around where I directed you. He has Copal #1 boards too.
Oh, dear. I just checked. I was mistaken. Apologies.
No solid ideas re tripods, I've been out of that market for too long.
I have a Star D imitation Tiltall that I retired in favor of a Bogen/Manfrotto 3021/055 (old style) with 3047/029 (I think I got the Manfrotto numbers right, could be mistaken) when I took up movies and needed a fluid head. Tiltalls' heads are fixed. The 3021/055 got wobbly in torsion as it aged. Retired in favor of a Berlebach 8023G, later supplemented with a Ries Model C. Pre-WW II but still good and at the price ($30) I couldn't pass it by . The Berlebach and Ries have 229 heads and 338 ball levelers; the two are heavier than the tripods. I like the combination but they're hard to recommend because of weight. Cost is a factor too.
I visited B&H when I was having the cosmic tripod blues 'cos the 3021 was too loose to work well with my 700/8 Questar, played with all of their display models. Most were a bit wobbly in torsion. The problem is that the tubular legs' locks have short bearing surfaces. My wooden tripods have much longer bearing surfaces between the leg sections.
You won't be using really long lenses with your Century so torsional vibration -- the platform moves around its vertical axis -- shouldn't affect it. The Tiltall and the all-metal Star D copy will do for you and have integrated heads. Otherwise a Manfrotto tripod (current 055) with a 3025/526 head would do.
skgrimes should have them. Not as inexpensive as you'd like, though.I have an old Star D copy. I'm going to take it for a test.
I seem to have struck out on the Copal 1 sized board. Found someone on Ebay but they won't do it. I think I'll have to find a local shoppe that'll do something like this for me.
... how about a Copal 0 board and a file?
Or a Copal 0 board and a shop. Last time I had some like that done the shop charged $35 to machine a bigger hole and mount a shutter.
Get a piece of 1/4 inch thick Baltic Birch Plywood, black acrylic, or ABS plastic.
Cut to just fit into the lens board opening
With the focus panel removed mark the throat of the bellows opening onto the board blank
Trim the outer edge to the throat marking to 1/8 inch thick or to just sit into the camera with the lens board lock in the locked position
Cut the desired hole size fr the shutter you want to mount.
Trim down the mount ring area as needed to obtain at least 3 threads on the shutter with the ring attached.
The lip is not necessary as long as the outer edges are the same thickness and smooth. The thickness of the board extending int the throat of the bellows helps ensure no light leaks.
Just provinding another way/source. Roberts camera has a opal 0 listed on ebay for $15 also.rdered a used board that's drilled for copal 0 and going to order this drill bit.
Holes should be milled, not drilled. Drilling a hole in a thin aluminum board can cause stresses that can warp the board.Ordered a used board that's drilled for copal 0 and going to order this drill bit.
https://www.amazon.com/Tungsten-Carbide-Cutter-Stainless-Aluminum/dp/B07L84SN1L
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