RalphLambrecht
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There's a difference between papers; some papers work OK with an amber safelight (they will also work OK with red) and others (esp. Foma) that really need a red safelight as amber will fog them. So the safest bet is a red safelight. I've personally used red LED strips shielded with an extra layer of rubylith. This has worked well for me for years. There's a limit to how bright you can make it before the paper starts to fog; this depends mostly on the paper you use. E.g. Fomaspeed will fog a a few stops earlier than the much slower Fomatone. So whichever solution you choose, be sure to perform adequate tests as @MattKing outlines above. Note that only testing for fogging of the whites is not adequate! You really need to determine as well whether there's an effect on the contrast, even if the safelight doesn't generate image tone by itself. It can still act as a contrast-reducing fogging exposure.
Some pretty murky chemicals you got there, Matt! What process are you doing, out of curiosity?The 16 foot rope light/Christmas light/safelight in my temporary darkroom/bathroom that passes the Kodak safelight test with the Ilford and (old Agfa) and Oriental RC papers I use:
View attachment 417175
Some pretty murky chemicals you got there, Matt! What process are you doing, out of curiosity?
Honestly, I'd go for cheap and cheerful. You'll find a simple red darkroom safelight satisfactory for many years, and easy to unhook and stow away. For about 15 years I used only a single Paterson dome light, and it still forms part of my safelight array, using the original bulb, now >30 years old. It's identical to the Photax dome light, and both can be found second-hand on eBay for next to nothing.Hello,
I am new to darkroom photography. I am setting up an enlarger in a spare bedroom, and developing trays in the bathtub in my only bathroom. Can anyone recommend what you consider a good safelight? I am only working in black and white, and with variable contrast papers.
Thanks,
Phil
Aha !!I nest smaller trays inside larger ones to help minimize splashes - particularly the fixer - and those inner trays happen to be black.
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