New effort: HP5+

[Ian Grant]

I've never lriked the look of HP5 Plus. However if you like the nitty-gritty look you may like it. I much prefer Tri-X.

My experience with HP5+ in Pyrocat HD is that I get a very smooth tonal look, others say the same but that's using the same film/developer combination which seems to really bring out the best from it.

I push processed some HP5 at approx 1600 EI in Pyrocat HD 18 months ago and was astounded at the quality, almost lack of grain.

Ian

 

[craigclu]

HP5 reacts well in PyroCat (I use the MC version). Controlled highlights, nice mid-tone separation/transition and they print with much less manipulation, at least to my goals vs the original scene. I usually shoot at 200 or 240 and use at 1:1:100, mainly medium format and incident metering.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

HP5+ Pyrocat-HD EI 250. Never seen this so called nitty gritty. If you have, you probably don't now how to use this film.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I've never lriked the look of HP5 Plus. However if you like the nitty-gritty look you may like it. I much prefer Tri-X.

HP5+ looks dirty to me compared to Tri-X or Tmax. Not my cup of tea so far. If I nail the exposure and everything lines up it's acceptable.

The problem is that Tri-X 400 is not available in 4"x5" while HP5+ is.

 

[Cholentpot]

The problem is that Tri-X 400 is not available in 4"x5" while HP5+ is.

HP5+ in LF looks really nice. I was referring to 35mm. It looks awful to me in 35mm. Not that I would refuse a few rolls ya know...

 

[Sirius Glass]

The problem is that Tri-X 400 is not available in 4"x5" while HP5+ is.

HP5+ in LF looks really nice. I was referring to 35mm. It looks awful to me in 35mm. Not that I would refuse a few rolls ya know...

It also helps that I develop in replenished XTOL.

 

[Laurent]

Interesting thread here!

I like my HP-5 exposed @ 400, and developed in HC110 "H" at 24°C (this is for consistency as I don't want to use ice in summer to get down to 20, and don't want to mess with different temperatures)

It's somewhat grainy in 35mm, if I want less grain then I used the Rolleiflex.

 

[Cholentpot]

It also helps that I develop in replenished XTOL.

I have an irrational fear of Xtol...

 

[Sirius Glass]

I have an irrational fear of Xtol...

We have a twelve step process for that. Would you like me to walk you through it? Do you need hand holding?

 

[Cholentpot]

We have a twelve step process for that. Would you like me to walk you through it? Do you need hand holding?

I don't develop that much, maybe a roll or two every other week. Right now I have HC-110, Rodinal, Tmax Dev, and some stock D-76 in 1 liter plastic seltzer bottles. HC-110 is for regular 'ol film. Rodinal is for MF and testing trash, Tmax Dev just sits there and sighs and the D-76 is saved for special occasions.

Xtol looks nice and all but 1. it's more expensive than D-76 2. It comes in a package much too large for me which ties into 3. Dubious shelf life. The D-76 lasts until I use it up, I've used year old stock with no problem. Xtol has a reputation for sudden death. Don't like sudden death.

So talk me into picking up a bag of this stuff next time I visit the shop.

 

[silveror0]

I typically shoot HP5+@ 200 and develop it in 1 gal tanks. This week I developed it in Uniroller drums in HC-110 dil B 4 oz to an 8x10 for 6.5 minutes. Came out pretty good but I'll run some tests when I get a chance

Luis, if I've done my math correctly ... Kodak's HC-110 Dil.B capacity for 8x10s is 10 sheets per gallon (128 oz.). So one 8x10 would need 12.8 oz of working solution to avoid exhaustion. It sounds like you're using 4 oz instead of the minimum 12.8 oz.

See p. 7: https://web.archive.org/web/2015021.../en/professional/support/techPubs/j24/j24.pdf

 

[pentaxuser]

Looks like we are back to the sudden Xtol death routine. I thought we had done with that one. Every time someone mentions "sudden death" and Xtol in the same sentence a warning bell sounds in the Mobberley executive board room and glasses of 50 year old Cognac are served.

If it goes on much longer the executives will have to submit themselves to a 12 step process at A.A. Already I wonder if HP5+ muddiness mentioned here in another thread is a result of inviting the emulsion chemists at Ilford to partake in the above libation

pentaxuser

 

[Craig]

Xtol looks nice and all but 1. it's more expensive than D-76 2. It comes in a package much too large for me which ties into 3. Dubious shelf life. The D-76 lasts until I use it up, I've used year old stock with no problem. Xtol has a reputation for sudden death.

I've used 16 month old Xtol and it behaved just like new Xtol. I kept it in an air tight wine bag. I've been using Xtol on an off since about 2000 and never had sudden death. I think that was only in the 1 litre packages ( which I also used a lot of with no problem) and those were discontinued years ago.

I've actually had more problems with aged D76, that was part of the reason to switch to Xtol.

 

[Cholentpot]

Looks like we are back to the sudden Xtol death routine. I thought we had done with that one. Every time someone mentions "sudden death" and Xtol in the same sentence a warning bell sounds in the Mobberley executive board room and glasses of 50 year old Cognac are served.

If it goes on much longer the executives will have to submit themselves to a 12 step process at A.A. Already I wonder if HP5+ muddiness mentioned here in another thread is a result of inviting the emulsion chemists at Ilford to partake in the above libation

pentaxuser

I've used 16 month old Xtol and it behaved just like new Xtol. I kept it in an air tight wine bag. I've been using Xtol on an off since about 2000 and never had sudden death. I think that was only in the 1 litre packages ( which I also used a lot of with no problem) and those were discontinued years ago.

I've actually had more problems with aged D76, that was part of the reason to switch to Xtol.

Alright! Ya guys got me. I'll poke around for a bag of it next time I hit up the shop.

 

[faberryman]

I don't develop that much, maybe a roll or two every other week. Right now I have HC-110, Rodinal, Tmax Dev, and some stock D-76 in 1 liter plastic seltzer bottles. HC-110 is for regular 'ol film. Rodinal is for MF and testing trash, Tmax Dev just sits there and sighs and the D-76 is saved for special occasions.

Why would you save a developer "for special occasions"?

 

[Sirius Glass]

I 3. Dubious shelf life. The D-76 lasts until I use it up, I've used year old stock with no problem. Xtol has a reputation for sudden death. Don't like sudden death.

So talk me into picking up a bag of this stuff next time I visit the shop.

Sudden death is dead. In the beginning there was a packaging problem that was corrected. You can feel safe using XTOL.

 

[DREW WILEY]

I've printed a LOT of HP5 8X10 sheet film, and frankly would recommend a film with better shadow separation like TMY400 for high-contrast open-sun desert work. But here's how I'd do it with HP5 : To get deep shadows higher up on the curve, experiment with ASA 320. Tanning developers will truly help rein in highlight texture, but I personally prefer PMK to Pyrocat for this particular film. I don't like to do "minus" development because it has a penalty on midtone and highlight microtonality. So I deal with what is essentially a case of overdevelopment by adding an unsharp mask. More moderate contrast situations in softer lighting are an easier fit for HP5. But it is a wonder film if it's not excessively enlarged.

 

[Cholentpot]

Sudden death is dead. In the beginning there was a packaging problem that was corrected. You can feel safe using XTOL.

Awesome, I'll add this stuff to my arsenal.

Why would you save a developer "for special occasions"?

For nicer film, better shoots, rolls I know that had better lighting and scenes.

I shoot mainly expired stuff or el-cheapo film. On the occasion I shoot from my frozen stock or even fresh I like to use D-76, I like how it looks and I know it better than any other developer. Rodinal for example, I use with film that's not going to look very good anyhow. Rodinal in 35mm does not look very good in anything faster than ISO 100. HC-110 I use for pushing film.

 

[peter k.]

would recommend a film with better shadow separation like TMY400 for high-contrast open-sun desert work.

Hmmmm never been drawn to TMY400... will have to look into that also, after all its a new year., and here in the southwest we definitely do have high contrast as you know. Thanks for making that point. .

BTW... In fact that is the very reason we out shooting today, as it was very overcast.. Wanted to try an shoot an area that is normally cast in deep shadow and light, within its canyon setting. Never have had any success in shooting scenes like this from above, looking down into the canyons throat. So went out there this morning, and got a good image with the Arista 200 @ 100, as it was not so bright, and also took two shots of HP5+. Developed the first one in D76 for the prescribed time of 13min. .Ah,, and as expected, needs some adjustment. Tomorrow will develop the 2nd, which is of the same scene, in HC110, and compare and start to get a feel for this film.
Thanks all for the input.

 

[Luis-F-S]

Luis, if I've done my math correctly ... Kodak's HC-110 Dil.B capacity for 8x10s is 10 sheets per gallon (128 oz.). So one 8x10 would need 12.8 oz of working solution to avoid exhaustion. It sounds like you're using 4 oz instead of the minimum 12.8 oz.

See p. 7: https://web.archive.org/web/2015021.../en/professional/support/techPubs/j24/j24.pdf

I know it's on the low side, but it gave me very printable negatives. I need to shoot some Zone I's and Zone VII on the same sheet, develop and then read densities.

Luis

 

[DREW WILEY]

In the desert it can often be more like Zone zero to Zone twelve in open sun. Not kidding. Try sparkling snow or white alkalai salt in the same shot as pitted black lava. I sure miss "straight line" films like Bergger 200, but TMY is a reasonable substitute and much finer grained.

 

[Luis-F-S]

No deserts in Louisiana.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Forests can be just as challenging. Around here you can get lovely natural softbox effects in the fog, but once the fog clears, twelve-stop range is typical in the redwoods, esp deep fire-scarred trunks. I love those kinds of photo challenges.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Cropped 35mm HP5+. Semi-stand in very dilute Pyrocat-HD. Looks pretty good to me, grain-wise.

 

[Craig]

Cropped 35mm HP5+. Semi-stand in very dilute Pyrocat-HD. Looks pretty good to me, grain-wise.

I have a series of three 11x14 prints framed and matted hanging beside each other in the house. One negative was 35mm HP5, one is 6x9 Delta 400 and one is 4X5 Delta 100. All developed in Xtol. Brought experienced photographers into the room and asked them to look at the prints and tell me which negative is which. So far no one has got it correct. To me that means the HP5 grain is perfectly acceptable!