New effort: HP5+

[peter k.]

Its a new year sooooo... over the last couple of years have gotten Arista (aka Foma) 400 and 200 consistently developed.to how we like it. When we read the views we tried and and settled on the consensus, that they worked best at 200 and 100.
Now we want to try HP5+ which is rated at 400..
So what are your views, and what do you shoot it at, in bright (aka southwest) light & landscapes?
Also what do you like to develop it in?
Will try it first, with the developers we have on hand, which are Hc110 and D-76, Please understand everyone's method and water varies, and will have to work out our own timings, but curious what yours are, for these two developers?
Thanks... p.

 

[mrosenlof]

I shoot hp5 at e.i. 200, develop in hc110 1:50 from syrup for 11 min at 20c, agitate 5 sec every 30. I print on 4x5 enlarger with (diffusion) colorhead.

 

[K-G]

I have had good results with HP5+ and HC110 . Even if I nowadays prefer Xtol replenished, I think HC110 ( and D-76 ) can serve you well. I enclose a link to some recommendations from J. Brunner who was seen here on APUG some years ago. The time values worked fine for me.

Karl-Gustaf

https://www.photrio.com/forum/resources/hc110-made-simple.220/

 

[trendland]

Its a new year sooooo... over the last couple of years have gotten Arista (aka Foma) 400 and 200 consistently developed.to how we like it. When we read the views we tried and and settled on the consensus, that they worked best at 200 and 100.
Now we want to try HP5+ which is rated at 400..
So what are your views, and what do you shoot it at, in bright (aka southwest) light & landscapes?
Also what do you like to develop it in?
Will try it first, with the developers we have on hand, which are Hc110 and D-76, Please understand everyone's method and water varies, and will have to work out our own timings, but curious what yours are, for these two developers?
Thanks... p.

Hey peter k,
sorry for stating this - but I (personaly ) can't see the real difference between both developers.
To many others it might be the oposite.
Ok - because HC 110 is a liquid type?
The agend is also not as different ( from its potential it may be )- but from characteristics I also can't see the rosetta stone to find out real differences.
So we speack about phenidone - it is one of the latest agends in HC 110 / D76 has
metol-hydroquinone as developing agend. We may perhaps speak about voodoo effects in comparison?
HC 110 gives a little more speed and a little more grain.
The tonals may differ concerning also from dillution.
The same is with your film peter.

All 3 : film, both developers are real standard.
HP5 + is improved. Tests it and find your own preferences.

with regards

PS : Hp5 is a nice film/both developers are nice.
More impact would give : E.I. / agitation (stand development) / dillution than direct comparision from both developers.
And the shot you make with your camera...will be different from the next shot.

 

[faberryman]

Who exactly are the "we" you are talking about? Since there is a group of you, it strikes me that the best strategy is for each of you to try a developer and then look at each others negatives. I'd start with the usual suspects (D-76, HC-110, XTOL, etc.). Nothing beats actual experience. Ilford has recommendations for HP5+ here:

https://www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/file/download/file_id/1896/product_id/691/

 

[MattKing]

J. Brunner who was seen here on APUG some years ago.

And is still seen (infrequently) as a Moderator here.

 

[K-G]

And is still seen (infrequently) as a Moderator here.

Good ! Thank you.

Karl-Gustaf

 

[Craig]

I've had good luck in Xtol using Ilford's recommended time of 8 min in a jobo.

 

[Ian Grant]

I used HP3 100ft bulk rolls ex military 35mm film while at school, then HP4, HP5 was so much better but when XP1 then XP2 came out I stopped using it, I only used fast films for shooting rock concerts and preferred XP1/2 pushed..

However more recently about 8 or 9 years I began shooting HP5 for hand held LF work, it's a superb film you'll see an improvement compared to Fomapan 400. It's great in ID-11/D76, Xtol would be a touch better, I process it in Pyrocat HD because it's become my standard and only film developer these days.

Ian

 

[baachitraka]

Its a new year sooooo... over the last couple of years have gotten Arista (aka Foma) 400 and 200 consistently developed.to how we like it. When we read the views we tried and and settled on the consensus, that they worked best at 200 and 100.
Now we want to try HP5+ which is rated at 400..
So what are your views, and what do you shoot it at, in bright (aka southwest) light & landscapes?
Also what do you like to develop it in?
Will try it first, with the developers we have on hand, which are Hc110 and D-76, Please understand everyone's method and water varies, and will have to work out our own timings, but curious what yours are, for these two developers?
Thanks... p.

Rodinal is my choice when I can't cook PC-TEA at home. Otherwise, 9mins with E.I 320 in PC-TEA will be grain free and hold highlights like Xtol et al...

 

[Ko.Fe.]

If I want negatives to looks nice, I'll expose HP5+ @200. If I want darkroom prints to looks nice (for me), I'll expose HP5+ up to @1600.
For developing - hcB, if @3200 - hcA.

 

[peter k.]

Thanks for your replies, please keep them coming...

Who exactly are the "we" you are talking about?

Hahaha.. no... just me and my camera's, although that is quite a group.. Yesterday took all three speeds.. MF, 3x4, and 4x5 in a converted golf cart with tripod. Thank goodness the trail is wide. as it was once part of the old single wide dirt road that they first put up to Flagstaff.
Have a tendency of wanting to try the HC110, like that developer, but with Arista had more of a tendency to blow out the sky. So we only use it on Arista when there is no sky.

I began shooting HP5 for hand held LF work

That's one of the reasons we want to use HP5+.. on a location were working on right now.. its quiet a distance, and taking the 4x5 speed is enough, without a tripod.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I do most of my photography in the Southwest. I also travel to Europe, Canada and Hawaii. I almost exclusively shoot ISO 400 films: Tri-X, Portra, UltraColor, VividColor, HP5+.

 

[faberryman]

Have a tendency of wanting to try the HC110, like that developer, but with Arista had more of a tendency to blow out the sky. So we only use it on Arista when there is no sky.

Blowing out the sky is an exposure issue, not a development issue.

 

[John Wiegerink]

Blowing out the sky is an exposure issue, not a development issue.

While what you say is basically true about over exposing it is also true you don't want to over develop either.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Its a new year sooooo... over the last couple of years have gotten Arista (aka Foma) 400 and 200 consistently developed.to how we like it. When we read the views we tried and and settled on the consensus, that they worked best at 200 and 100.
Now we want to try HP5+ which is rated at 400..
So what are your views, and what do you shoot it at, in bright (aka southwest) light & landscapes?
Also what do you like to develop it in?
Will try it first, with the developers we have on hand, which are Hc110 and D-76, Please understand everyone's method and water varies, and will have to work out our own timings, but curious what yours are, for these two developers?
Thanks... p.

I shoot it atEI250 and develop in FX39 or Rodinal for golfball-size grain.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

I've never lriked the look of HP5 Plus. However if you like the nitty-gritty look you may like it. I much prefer Tri-X.

 

[Willyekerslike]

Bloody christmas trees, what a boring fellow I am. I shoot HP5 Plus mostly at 400 and develop in DD-X or ID-11, however I do occasionaly shoot at 800 and 1600 when I develop in Microphen, it works for me. I print B&W in the darkroom. I have lived a very sheltered life.

 

[John Wiegerink]

Bloody christmas trees, what a boring fellow I am. I shoot HP5 Plus mostly at 400 and develop in DD-X or ID-11, however I do occasionaly shoot at 800 and 1600 when I develop in Microphen, it works for me. I print B&W in the darkroom. I have lived a very sheltered life.

Scotty,
I also lead a very sheltered life like you. It's HP5+ in 120 size souped in Xtol-R for me. Great at 400 and darn good at 800. Certainly no gritty look on my prints even beyond 16X20. Or as you folks across the pond say, 20"X16"

 

[Luis-F-S]

I typically shoot HP5+@ 200 and develop it in 1 gal tanks. This week I developed it in Uniroller drums in HC-110 dil B 4 oz to an 8x10 for 6.5 minutes. Came out pretty good but I'll run some tests when I get a chance

 

[Cholentpot]

HP5+ looks dirty to me compared to Tri-X or Tmax. Not my cup of tea so far. If I nail the exposure and everything lines up it's acceptable.

 

[artcarbuncle]

I’ve been using HP5+ exclusively for the past year or so. My experience is that it does tend to be a bit too harsh in at 400 for landscape work in full sun, especially in smaller formats. Shadow detail drops off a bit too quickly and on the other hand the mid tones register a bit too high. Cutting the contrast by exposing at 200 or 250 and reducing development a bit does help. In flat light I’ve found it works very well at 400 or even 800 with more development.

 

[Lachlan Young]

ID-11, 1+1, 20c, somewhere around 9 minutes, depending on contrast range etc. EI determined by testing for your own personal metering habits. Most people get in a mess with HP5+ because they expect it to have the same curve as TX and it doesn't (TXP is a different story) & the Ilford development times are too long for non controllable contrast environments (ie outdoors). Very beautiful film, capable of stunning results if you treat it sensibly - one of my all-time favourites.

 

[Michael W]

I like it at 400 in D76 1+1 13 min at 20 deg C with agitation in Paterson tanks. That is 35mm, 120 and 4x5 using a MOD54 holder. For sunny landscape I would probably test rating it a bit slower, dev a bit less time and use a filter for the sky.

 

[Pioneer]

I shoot it from ISO 400 to 1600 and develop it in D-23.

Lately it has been D-23 1:3 for 17 minutes at 68F using continual agitation in a Jobo tank. Most of this has been 4x5 shot at box speed.

Will also develop in D-23 1:1 for 12.5 minutes at 68F with 1 minute of agitation followed by 4 inversions every minute.

Either way the negatives come out looking very smooth with excellent tonal range. I haven't seriously used any TriX in at least a year though I still use quite a bit of Arista EDU Ultra 400, mostly in 35mm, (which looks a lot like TriX to my eye.)