I don't use it for the same reason. I strive toward colder tones. I think I tried Bromophen once and found that the more prints I developed, the warmer the tones became, but that was at least 20 years ago and I could be confusing it with a liquid paper developer that I tried around the same time. In any case, I've never used anything except Dektol since then. In fact, I haven't even considered a PQ substitute for Dektol, but that's based more a gut feeling than a scientific conclusion.I've used lots of paper developers but never Bromophen for some reason. Dektol in D-72 guise was one of the most neutral to cold developers in tests I made several years ago, I had understood Bromophen tended slightly warmer?
At one time it was convenient for me to do the same thing, I made D-23 for film and the Dr. Beers 2 bath paper developer before PF started selling it. Now a days, besides Dektol, I find the 5 Liter Ilford Multigrade liquid developer works well with the Ilford MG papers and in concentrate, lasts a long time.I never thought to check on ebay, but they have a ton of various canned Kodak chemicals. Nonetheless, I plan to stick with mixing my own for now. I'm intrigued by some of the formula variations I've seen, so I may experiment with those a bit, too.
I suspect that's true. I used nothing but Dektol for years, it works great. I really like the prints I get with Bromophen. Lasts well, I make up 5 liters, then split into full Nalgene 250mL bottles. I dilute 1:3 use one session and toss. If I'm using larger quantities I save the working solution it keeps well.I've used lots of paper developers but never Bromophen for some reason. Dektol in D-72 guise was one of the most neutral to cold developers in tests I made several years ago, I had understood Bromophen tended slightly warmer?
Thanks, Bill. Matt King posted a link to that in post #7 in this thread. Personally, I thought it was just too ugly to use, so I threw it out and mixed up some D-72.Alan Ross shared an update he got from Alaris. The brown color is due to an impurity that is not photo-reactive, there is no impact on performance. So you can use the brown Dektol.
Thanks, Doremus. That's good to know and it explains why I didn't see any apparent ill effects from the extra carbonate.ID-62 is supposed to be similar to Bromophen. The formula has both potassium bromide and benzotriazole, the BTZ being there to cool the image tone to neutral. I like the image tone with the standard formula, but one can change the ration of bromide to BTZ to adjust image tone if desired. Adding BTZ to Bromophen will cool it a bit, adding bromide warms it up. The changes are very, very slight since modern neutral-tone papers don't react that much to developer changes.
Extra carbonate in your D-72 will just make it a bit more active, so no worries. I'll often spike up my developer with a bit of carbonate when using graded papers to eke out a bit more contrast.
Best,
Doremus
Dave, how difficult did the dark colour make it to see how the print was developing in a tray?
Thanks
pentaxuser
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My point, however, was that Dektol (and many other developers) can work fine even when quite dark with oxidation products. One famous example is old Agfa Rodinal. Sure, many may not trust the stuff when it doesn't behave the way they're used to, and that's reasonable.
The day I have more faith in home mixed than commercial passed years ago. I use commercially packaged chemistry because it's convenient, if it doesn't cost too much.
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