I have been scanning since 2000 and do not consider it a black magic, but I am really willing to learn new tricks as I am an old dog, I would encourage the OP to help me learn a few new things.
I have been scanning since 2000 and do not consider it a black magic, but I am really willing to learn new tricks as I am an old dog, I would encourage the OP to help me learn a few new things.I just love how everyone in this thread and in general treat scanning as some kind of black magic or art. All the R&D that revolve around these methods has been published in books and online resources freely up to the early 2000s most notably aim-dtp.net before it went down. Just look and you shall find, I suppose if people want to hitch the dslr-scanning wave for $$$ then that is another matter - I agree with Ralph here.
Oh this is just a perfect color interpretation of the scene. Getting excited with your process. I used colorperfect filter but irests are always unpredictable. In scanning this film, I used a 60mm macro and a flash at a fix distance to achieve uniform exposure: ISO 64 1/250 @ f/8.0 with a diffuser in between to eliminate hot spots.Hello Raoul,
The results from this are worse than the previous DSLR scan test I did, but I'm not sure why.
I think there might be color information clipped in the raw file. 400H has quite a strong reddish base, did you use any gels over your flash to compensate for this? If not, that might be the reason why. You don't have to completely negate the base, but just enough blue or cyan to get the channels a little balanced.
I first imported in to LR to get a 16bit .tiff file, I assume the dslr was already set to 14bit raw uncompressed.
View attachment 193836
Oh this is just a perfect color interpretation of the scene. Getting excited with your process. I used colorperfect filter but irests are always unpredictable. In scanning this film, I used a 60mm macro and a flash at a fix distance to achieve uniform exposure: ISO 64 1/250 @ f/8.0 with a diffuser in between to eliminate hot spots.
With your app . a single click may take it to far, is there a Opacity slider option to back off the correction slightly??Glad to hear that! Try a CTB filter in between the flash and diffuser next time, I have a feeling the result can be improved further.
Progress is good on the action, and I now have a new method for a final CC adjustment that is intuitive and simple to use. Of course, the aim is to get very close from one click, and make no assumptions on what the correct balance is, the user should be the one to set that, just like in printing. That said, the result you see is a straight one click with no other parameters changed.
I still need more testing material to make sure the method works every time, and fine tune it.
With your app . a single click may take it to far, is there a Opacity slider option to back off the correction slightly??
Sounds good , very handy for large bodies of negative scan work for quick presentation and evaluation.That's what I'm working on currently, making it conservative yet still able to provide a good result from one click.
The user 'adjustments' will be controllable with layer opacity, no step of the process is destructive.
Hello Raoul,
The results from this are worse than the previous DSLR scan test I did, but I'm not sure why.
I think there might be color information clipped in the raw file. 400H has quite a strong reddish base, did you use any gels over your flash to compensate for this? If not, that might be the reason why. You don't have to completely negate the base, but just enough blue or cyan to get the channels a little balanced.
I first imported in to LR to get a 16bit .tiff file, I assume the dslr was already set to 14bit raw uncompressed.
View attachment 193836
This just looks odd to me (greens). I suppose it looks like what is; a negative scanned on a DSLR, it seems the OPs method is more absolute colorimetric (?) - colors are "correct" however the character of the film is lost. Here is my take, one 'auto' and another with minor adjustment to the individual rgb gammas, slight contrast curve and vibrance. Even with the OPs previous samples I could of been fooled they were taken on a digital camera with a VSCO preset! Color is largely a matter of taste of course and I'm mainly a B&W guy - life is simpler that way.
View attachment 193887 View attachment 193888
Glad to hear that! Try a CTB filter in between the flash and diffuser next time, I have a feeling the result can be improved further.
Progress is good on the action, and I now have a new method for a final CC adjustment that is intuitive and simple to use. Of course, the aim is to get very close from one click, and make no assumptions on what the correct balance is, the user should be the one to set that, just like in printing. That said, the result you see is a straight one click with no other parameters changed.
I still need more testing material to make sure the method works every time, and fine tune it.
I think a lot of the so-called 'character' is down to bad scanning and/ or inept colour 'correction'. Colour neg can be deadly accurate in terms of colour reproduction if the inversion is handled correctly, but with an elegant, naturalistic character that digital sensors struggle to match. I find it's vastly easier and faster to get first rate colour with the right amount of 'personality' from neg film & a good scan than from a digital sensor & much fiddling in PS.
Hi Adrian,
I tested another batch of film but still Fuji Pro 400H with the same setup. I'm sending three versions of this file; one with plain diffuser, the other with CTO using Rosco #3407, and the last one with CTB using Rosco #3204. Here they are respectively:
Kudos
The next step will be to make this process available for other image processing software.
I already have a working macro for Affinity Photo, that could be ready soon if there is interest.
GIMP will also be possible once they release their 16bit version.
The Corel Paintshop or Aftershot Pro products would also be excellent targets for your work.
I agree, I have those two as well as Affinity Photo. Ended up not using Aftetrhot but may one day. I'm migrating away from PSP to Affinity for processing negatives, but may continue general use for both for quite some time. I'll never touch Photoshop, but I haven't been able let go of Lightroom. I'm on version 5 which continues to be fine for me.
There is quite some diversity beyond Photoshop!
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