need help with Nikon FM

[RalphLambrecht]

Let's go to camera is worked flawlessly for decades. It sat in the cupboard for a few years now unused. I took it out today and noticed that the shutter seems to be locked. The winding lever is stuck and doesn't move forward. Set a release button is also stuck and can't be pushed. Is this something simple or a major CLA?

 

[CMoore]

Can you remove the bottom or top plate "Easily".?..................... or on a side note, Does or would removing the lens allow you to see, access, or try something.?

 

[Bikerider]

It sounds typical of a camera that has been left for a while and not had the shutter exercised occasionally. The lubricant will have hardened and gummed up the 'works' I would think to get it back working again it would possibly be better if it were left to someone experienced in repairing these manual cameras. There are many out there who would be prepared to do the job themselves. Good luck to them unless they have access to accurate equipment and tools to do the task to bring it back from the brink.

The value of the Nikon manual cameras are increasing, partially because they are repairable, so over time, it may pay for the work to be done.

 

[bernard_L]

Based on what I experienced with another camera, I would remove the bottom plate, study the mechanism there, looking for an interlock between film advance and shutter release. Possibly some lever got stuck in a position it's not supposed to be in.

 

[macfred]

I had this with my FM a few years ago - went to my local camera service. They pressed the rewind button and advance lever was free. Not sure this will help with your FM but maybe you give it a try.

I just saw you did - sorry.

 

[Craig75]

If you set the self timer to run does it start anything or can you fire the shutter button to start timer?

I bought a jammed camera to try and service it but it turned out setting self timer just released whatever mechanism had been locked.

Long shot but worth a try

 

[macfred]

Did you try to advance while pressing the multiexposure button ?

 

[RalphLambrecht]

If you set the self timer to run does it start anything or can you fire the shutter button to start timer?

I bought a jammed camera to try and service it but it turned out setting self timer just released whatever mechanism had been locked.

Long shot but worth a try

tred he self timer but it just went through its cycleand the shutter release is still locked.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I had this with my FM a few years ago - went to my local camera service. They pressed the rewind button and advance lever was free. Not sure this will help with your FM but maybe you give it a try.

I just saw you did - sorry.

good idea;tried it;but unfortunately the advance lever and the shutter release are still frozen; also tried to push the emergency -release buttononthe bottom plate... nada.

 

[jay moussy]

I may have missed something, and it may not be relevant, but what about the mirror motion?

 

[reddesert]

I had a Nikon FM lock up out of the blue one day after dry firing it. Think some part of the shutter cycle is out of position. There are videos on youtube from people who have successfully freed an FM by removing the bottom plate and freeing certain levers, but there are actually two different internal mechanisms for the FM (ie Nikon made some changes mid run) so the videos don't match all FMs. I still plan to get this one fixed someday.

I had another FM lock up when the batteries in a motor drive died. Interestingly, I could not advance or fire it when the camera was freed of the drive, but when I put fresh batteries back in the drive and hooked it up, it completed the cycle and the camera freed itself.

 

[Acere]

Let's go to camera is worked flawlessly for decades. It sat in the cupboard for a few years now unused. I took it out today and noticed that the shutter seems to be locked. The winding lever is stuck and doesn't move forward. Set a release button is also stuck and can't be pushed. Is this something simple or a major CLA?

The issue that I've encountered after leaving my FM, FE, FE2 and FM2's sitting for long time are similar. BTW There were three different FM models during their production period. Post a pic of yours and i can tell you if its type I, II or III.

In the picture below, the lever with the yellow dot should be moved gently in the direction of the arrow until you're able to cock the camera and press the shutter button. These mechanisms vary between madels and production dates but are similar in function. You may have to it a few times and it may be all you need. There are three lubricating points in that system that the nikon service manual recommends to to lube. This is why it helps to dry shoot the camera at least once a month or so it doesn't get arthritis if you know what i mean.

This would be done at your own risk so be gentle with it and don't force anything. Or, you can have it CLA'd at your local camera shop.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I may have missed something, and it may not be relevant, but what about the mirror motion?

The mirror is not moving but I'm not surprised by that because the shutter is not firing.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I had a Nikon FM lock up out of the blue one day after dry firing it. Think some part of the shutter cycle is out of position. There are videos on youtube from people who have successfully freed an FM by removing the bottom plate and freeing certain levers, but there are actually two different internal mechanisms for the FM (ie Nikon made some changes mid run) so the videos don't match all FMs. I still plan to get this one fixed someday.

I had another FM lock up when the batteries in a motor drive died. Interestingly, I could not advance or fire it when the camera was freed of the drive, but when I put fresh batteries back in the drive and hooked it up, it completed the cycle and the camera freed itself.

This camera was never mounted to a motor drive nor do I even have one but I seem to remember that I used a coin wants to wiggle the motor Drive cup coupling and that eventually freed up the camera. I'll try that tomorrow.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

It sounds typical of a camera that has been left for a while and not had the shutter exercised occasionally. The lubricant will have hardened and gummed up the 'works' I would think to get it back working again it would possibly be better if it were left to someone experienced in repairing these manual cameras. There are many out there who would be prepared to do the job themselves. Good luck to them unless they have access to accurate equipment and tools to do the task to bring it back from the brink.

The value of the Nikon manual cameras are increasing, partially because they are repairable, so over time, it may pay for the work to be done.

oh please guilty having left the camera for too long unused. No that makes me nervous about all the other ones which suffer the same fate.

 

[BrianShaw]

This camera was never mounted to a motor drive nor do I even have one but I seem to remember that I used a coin wants to wiggle the motor Drive cup coupling and that eventually freed up the camera. I'll try that tomorrow.

If that’s the case… there is a spring-loaded latch in the corner beneath the motor drive hub that completes the cock-advance process. It it doesn’t latch the works get jammed. I’ve had to clean and re-lube that before on mine, which gets a lot of MD usage that seems to exacerbate that particular problem. Maybe that’s what is hanging your up?

 

[RalphLambrecht]

If that’s the case… there is a spring-loaded latch in the corner beneath the motor drive hub that completes the cock-advance process. It it doesn’t latch the works get jammed. I’ve had to clean and re-lube that before on mine, which gets a lot of MD usage that seems to exacerbate that particular problem. Maybe that’s what is hanging your up?

I think you're right that must be it. I think I could fix this myself but it's probably better to give it to a trained camera mechanic. There is a specialized Nikon service center in Cologne, I will probably take it there.

 

[250swb]

Is there a film in the camera and is the film counter stuck at 36? OK sometimes the obvious thing needs saying. The bottom plate is very easy to remove and fortunately most of the stuff that can get gummed up is right there in front of you. Then refer to this YouTube video



which deals with a stuck shutter

 

[shutterfinger]

https://learncamerarepair.com/downloads/pdf/Nikon-FM-Revised-Service-Manual.pdf
and others about 3/4 down the page
https://learncamerarepair.com/productlist.php?category=2&secondary=8

 

[RDW]

The issue that I've encountered after leaving my FM, FE, FE2 and FM2's sitting for long time are similar. BTW There were three different FM models during their production period. Post a pic of yours and i can tell you if its type I, II or III.

It would be interesting if you could list the distinguishing features of the three different FM versions, and which ones have which mechanism. I know that the early ones have the shutter lock collar, while the later ones lose this but add a screw in the mirror box that can be used to remove the focusing screen without taking the top plate off, but that's about it. I'd also noticed that there are at least two markedly different versions of the FE mechanism when viewed with the bottom plate off - are there corresponding differences in the FM mechanism between versions?

 

[RalphLambrecht]

It would be interesting if you could list the distinguishing features of the three different FM versions, and which ones have which mechanism. I know that the early ones have the shutter lock collar, while the later ones lose this but add a screw in the mirror box that can be used to remove the focusing screen without taking the top plate off, but that's about it. I'd also noticed that there are at least two markedly different versions of the FE mechanism when viewed with the bottom plate off - are there corresponding differences in the FM mechanism between versions?

which view do you need?

 

[Acere]

View attachment 290697 View attachment 290698 View attachment 290695 View attachment 290696

It would be interesting if you could list the distinguishing features of the three different FM versions, and which ones have which mechanism. I know that the early ones have the shutter lock collar, while the later ones lose this but add a screw in the mirror box that can be used to remove the focusing screen without taking the top plate off, but that's about it. I'd also noticed that there are at least two markedly different versions of the FE mechanism when viewed with the bottom plate off - are there corresponding differences in the FM mechanism between versions?

You pretty much got it covered here. I have a type I that took the top plate to clean the focusing screen but it had the dreaded dark vertical line in the viewfinder from a defect in the prism. I also have a type III that has the center screw but its still not as easy as the FE or FE2's clip on screens. Also type one has a different film advance mechanism than the Type ll or III. Here's a good explanation from riversky33

 

[RDW]

I also have a type III that has the center screw but its still not as easy as the FE or FE2's clip on screens. Also type one has a different film advance mechanism than the Type ll or III. Here's a good explanation from riversky33

Thanks! I think I have the external differences clear now. I & II both have the shutter lock/winder mode collar and lack the focus screen screw. They differ only in the largely cosmetic knurling on the rewind knob, which only type I has. Type III loses the shutter lock collar, but gains the focus screen screw. You suggest that the film advance mechanism change happened when type I was updated to II, though I might have guessed it would have happened when II was updated to III, at the same time as the other major external changes. But perhaps II was a transitional version, where removing the rewind knob knurling coincided with the first significant internal change to the mechanism?

which view do you need?

It would be interesting to see under the bottom plate for versions I, II and III, if those views are available.

 

[cjbecker]

Interested in this, as i have a fe that is the old version that is locked up in a similar way. Mine happened at the end of a roll with a md12 attacted.

 

[Acere]

Thanks! I think I have the external differences clear now. I & II both have the shutter lock/winder mode collar and lack the focus screen screw. They differ only in the largely cosmetic knurling on the rewind knob, which only type I has. Type III loses the shutter lock collar, but gains the focus screen screw. You suggest that the film advance mechanism change happened when type I was updated to II, though I might have guessed it would have happened when II was updated to III, at the same time as the other major external changes. But perhaps II was a transitional version, where removing the rewind knob knurling coincided with the first significant internal change to the mechanism?

It would be interesting to see under the bottom plate for versions I, II and III, if those views are available.

Here's the bottom of my Type II so the newer improved mechanism started with the Type III