I don't use personal ASA, ISO, EI, Zone System, or Beyond Zone System. All of that is too crude for my own purposes. I'm visualizing the specific shape and placement of the curve itself every shot, tailored, even though now it's almost entirely intuitive and instant due to sheer familiarity. Has it made a real difference right into the look of the prints themselves? Absolutely. Just yesterday I was in an intense forest fire burn zone - the most dramatic fire in the world last year. Talk about lighting extremes! It was a rush trip so I just grabbed the bag and tripod. Had only 4 frames of TMX left in the 6X9, plus an unopened roll of Acros. Merely adjusting the rating of the ACROS down to 50 won't make it equal to TMY @ 100. Different animals.I wasn't dealing with just shades of gray, but black upon black upon black, juxtaposed to shimmering highlights. I knew exactly what to do when I switched rolls.
I have a pretty darn good BS meter too, Stephen, and have no interest in jousting with your own ridiculous assumptions about me. Got better things to do than to play ego games. My own methodology might or might not help others. It's there if someone happens to need another option more precise than the usual suspects. But don't attack something you obviously don't understand yet, and apparently don't want to. Welcome to my ignore list.
This is where the 19 stop range of TMX comes in. For the 7 stop scene, the TMX film would have an exposure latitude of 12 stops.
Very interesting post. So tmax 100 really has 19 stops of dynamic range ? Concretely what does this mean if you meter a scene with a Pentax digital spotmeter ? Should one meter the shadows and place the EV reading on RLE 1 like @Lachlan Young suggests and just let everything else fall into place ? Or since there is so much latitude should shadows be placed a little higher up on the scale ? Or is that the whole point of rating the film 1/2 - 2/3 of box speed ?
paul
That’s a fine image, Vaughn. Thanks for sharing that.Nice light...
So using the RLE scale then I should set the meter to box speed ?IRE 10 ('1' on the Pentax) is effectively giving a 2/3 stop exposure bump compared to ISO standards
Yes, you can adopt the same convenience on the dial for b&w shooting if you don't yet know how to properly meter for shadows versus highlights, which takes about five seconds longer to do with the very same spotmeter.
So using the RLE scale then I should set the meter to box speed ?
Well, if it were me, I would go out and find a decent used Pentax digital spotmeter.
First (off topic), how long have you been using Piezography? I've been on the fence for a while but have been seriously considering it.
What do you mean high-performance Ferrari?fatso - if you are more comfortable with an incident meter, that fine; but "spot"meters are intuitive for small spot shadow readings. There's no need for a silly zone sticker. If you want to use either speed of Tmax with respect to Zone System jargon, do NOT place shadow values above Zone 2 ; you'll risk blowing out the highlights in any high contrast scene. But in balanced studio lighting or other softly lit settings, life gets easier, exposure-wise; but in that case you don't need a high-performance TMax Ferrari either.
Don't try very low contrast development either. Notice how Michael's curves look darn good reasonably developed; but the experimental very low-contrast curve is quite squirrelly. One of these days I'll throw him a life raft containing my own low contrast tweak, which has an excellent straight line; but unless someone is doing unsharp masking, I don't see any practical need for it. But you seem to be on the right track, and if you yourself need to "complicate" things a bit more, then you can cross that bridge when you come to it. Good luck with your show!
It depends very much on lighting of course.Depends on your lighting conditions and what you're standards are. And realize the characteristic curve doesn't lie. It tends to be steep; and underexpose a bit too much and you fall off a cliff into blackness. I've deliberately done that in certain instances just to get a blank unambiguous graphic black. But because I knew the precise threshold of that, curve-wise, it was entirely predictable. Do you print digitally too, Helge, or in the darkroom?
do NOT place shadow values above Zone 2
Thanks ! I’m loving these gigantic printsGood luck with your show!
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