Need a source for drilled Sinar lensboards

[jd callow]

Hi all,
Where can I get Sinar lens boards drill for compound shutter ~3 ⅜" (86mm) and a No.5 Synchro ~3 3/16" (81mm). I need the boards as well. TIA,

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

MPEX might have them. SK Grimes can make them up new.

 

[MattKing]

Good to see you around John.

 

[jd callow]

Hey Matt, Nice to see you virtually too.

Hey David, I checked MPEX, and your post reminded me of KEH. MPEX has a Sinar board, I'll see if they can drill it out, I was going to have SK Grimes create a retaining ring for the compound shutter. I may ask them if they have a lens board as well, but I wont be asking them to create one. I live in the sticks now, but back a few years ago I lived in Ferndale, where I could find machine shops within walking distance -- a perk of living on the edge of Detroit.

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

If it’s a large shutter, it may have originally had a flange fastened to the front of the board with screws rather than a retaining ring. MPEX may already have one in a box of old flanges somewhere. If you can find one, it saves the expense of fabricating a retaining ring.

 

[jd callow]

It is an enormous shutter. It may have screwed into a lens board or had a ring that was secured to a board via screws.
.

 

[138S]

Hi all,
Where can I get Sinar lens boards drill for compound shutter ~3 ⅜" (86mm) and a No.5 Synchro ~3 3/16" (81mm). I need the boards as well. TIA,

I 3D print my sinar boards in ABS. I place a reinforcement in the back that may be a problem or not, but I would modify it if necessary. If you want to go that way... I attach the STL 81mm and 84mm hole design files that can be printed in any 3D printer service.




Replace the TXT extension by STL, as STL coul not be uploaded

It should be a high density print to be robust. As always, in the printing the part has to be slightly oversized to overcome contraction from the cooling.

 

[jd callow]

I 3D print my sinar boards in ABS. I place a reinforcement in the back that may be a problem or not, but I would modify it if necessary. If you want to go that way... I attach the STL 81mm and 84mm hole design files that can be printed in any 3D printer service.

View attachment 255974


Replace the TXT extension by STL, as STL coul not be uploaded

It should be a high density print to be robust. As always, in the printing the part has to be slightly oversized to overcome contraction from the cooling.

138S, One of the lenses weighs over 3 lbs. Do you think the plastic will be strong enough? Do you think a retaining ring could be printed?

 

[138S]

138S, One of the lenses weighs over 3 lbs. Do you think the plastic will be strong enough? Do you think a retaining ring could be printed?

3D prints in ABS should resist well if well made, the first printed lensboard I made was for a LOMO O-6 600mm weighting 1600gr, a more difficult situation because weight is unbalanced as all the lens is placed in the external side.



In the SINAR case the board is thinner, but I have a 1kg Sironar 300 in an ABS board that was not reinforced, the attached files have a reinforcement in the back, but it can be reinforced better. Also some metallic or carbon fiber platings can be bolted in the back or front of the board.

An optimal "top pro level" solution I'm considering is (watter jet) cutting a carbon board and 3D printing the light traps.

PLA material is strong but fragile and unpredictable, best common material would be ABS, but it has to be printed at high density and taking care the print is well made, a 3D print can be quite flawed. I would print one of the boards and make a destructive test, forcing it until it is broken to see if it is safe enough, of course it would be painful if the lens falls to the ground !! Again, an ABS print shrinks around a 0.8%, so the model is scaled up by the printing service people to end in the specified dimensions when cooled, buy later we have to chech they this that job well.

The material used should have no degradation from UV exposure, https://3dprinterly.com/is-pla-uv-resistant-including-abs-petg-more/ if not the part becomes weaker as it is used outdoors.

Regarding the retaining rings nightmare, I found a suitable way to use a thick nylon ring with no thread but with the proper dimensions that allows to make the thread as we turn the ring on the shutter thread, if the hole dimension in the nylon ring is the good one then result is totally safe. I make the first 1mm of the hole a bit larger to help center the ring in the shutter's thread, this makes it way easier.


https://airwolf3d.com/2017/07/24/strongest-3d-printer-filament/

 

[jd callow]

I found a retaining ring on eBay for the Heliar and talked to Jim at Mpex. Jim is a really helpful guy and with his assistance I'll get this sorted. The next issue is find hoods that will fit these beasts. The lenses will cover 8x10, but I am going to use them in 6x9 and 6x12 so I'll need a way to cut down the image circle so it doesn't light up the inside of my camera like last call.

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

Do you have a camera that can take a compendium shade that attaches to the camera? If this on a Sinar (as opposed to some other camera that uses Sinar boards), you can use a 4x5” bellows with clips and rods that turn it into a shade or with an extra front standard, and I think they also made an adjustable mask that can go on a spare front standard when using a bellows as a shade. It works like mask for an adjustable negative carrier in an enlarger.

That should be easier than finding something that threads to these lenses.

 

[jd callow]

That is plan b. Lee filters makes a wide angle bellows hood that looks perfectly proportioned and it would allow filters. Shooting at night an upside down ND grad is often helpful, cross-processing is helped along by cc filters and the list goes on. The issue with the lee filter hood is how do I attach it. Sinar has a filter holder as well, but the sinar solution, hood and filter holder, are cumbersome. Mpex has suggested rubber hoods and I may go that route to start with.

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

The Sinar filter holder takes 4” square filters, as I recall, so that should give you lots of options. I think if you look for something that threads to the lens, most of your options are going to involve a custom step ring. There’s the Lee filter holder with the rubber band, but that doesn’t get you the shade.

There’s also a filter holder (Voss I think) with 2 barndoors and a clip that attaches to the front of the lens, but it’s 3”—probably too small for your lenses. I have one of those in my 8x10” Gowland Pocket View kit with a Moleskin pocket file of gel filters—lightest filter kit ever. If you wanted to get creative along those lines maybe there’s a lighting barndoor set that could be adapted as a lens shade with spring clips or rubber bands to attach it to the lens.

 

[138S]

... the compedium shade has several advantages, you can trim the window depending on the situation, for example if you use shift rise movements or if you shot near, and you may also use square filters.

This is probably the ideal shade for View cameras:



Quite cheap for the excellence it provides




Still, what makes difference is not having bellows too compressed or too extended, those are the situations provocating insane flare !

 

[jd callow]

I bought the mask (Thank you 138s), Jim at Mpex is in the process of setting me up with the bellows, clips, lens boards etc... It will be cumbersome, but what the hell its not like the sinar is all that mobile. I'll hand hold the filters for now -- something I've had to do often in the past.

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

I have a swing-away rotating filter holder, which has a 4” filter holder on it. I think the 4” filter holder is an adaptation by a previous owner. I don’t have it handy and haven’t used it recently, but if I remember correctly, it’s attached with silicone or some such.

I don’t own the 4-blade mask, but it seems like a nice thing to have, if the bellows shade doesn’t provide enough shade for your needs.

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

Another way to deal with filters is to make two cylinders of masking tape about the diameter of a pencil with the adhesive facing out, and put one on each side of the front ring of the lens, outside of the lens area, and you can stick a gel filter in front of the lens that way.

 

[jd callow]

I like the idea of a swing away filter holder. I'll keep looking.

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

I like the idea of a swing away filter holder. I'll keep looking.

It swings 180 degrees, so you can look directly through a polarizer and swing it into place instead of trying to adjust it while looking at the groundglass.

 

[jd callow]

Sooo. I bought the sinar swing out filter holder, which is 100mm, a group of sinar cc filters along with the previously purchased shade, and bellows. I also bought a zoom2 roll film holder. Mostly I'll be shooting portraits/people so I wont need ND grads or polarizers with this setup. I now need to stop buying stuff. (I'd love to upgrade the F2 with a P, but never mind.)

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

Sounds like you’re set up. The Zoom2 is great.

 

[jd callow]

Yeah, I have always coveted the zoom, but the price was prohibitive especially since I already had a 6x9 RF back. I was debating buying the 6x12 horseman when I saw the zoom for similar dollars. Now I have one RF back to do both jobs and it'll take 220 which I still have. All of this is a bit of a fool's errand. Opportunities for color film photography is quickly diminishing. At some point I may shoot more B/W.

 

[removed account4]

At some point I may shoot more B/W

if you do, are you going to cross process it ?

 

[jd callow]

if you do, are you going to cross process it ?

Yes, eventually. I am going to start by shooting still lifes of a sort. Above and beyond masks and social distancing, in our house we have a compelling reason to stay locked down until a vaccine is available. I'm going to use this time to shoot interiors/parts of the house as it is being used. I'll do this using more conventional color films untill I am happy with the set up then I'll start shooting portraits and cross process. The lenses benefit by being shot wide open or near to and I like to do in camera cc filtration when exposing e6 for cross processing. The combination should be mutually beneficial. I do like B/W probably more than straight c41 films, but I need to raise my game a bit with that film. I figure at some point I'll run out of color films I like and then learn how to shoot B/W in a way that I want. I would like to also do some night time 'street' photography with this setup, but the focal length may be too long and I am likely to use plain vanilla c41 T films.

 

[138S]

Yeah... in LF it is quite interesting having a road map, of course we can always deviate from the route when on the way, but the thing is that ample and deep that having a map may help. Still we always have room for casual shooting, I like a lot Louis Mendes style, the light saber never fails