Here is the completed video...
Very informative video that demystifies 510-Pyro! Thanks for sharing.
I hope you'll talk about grain in the next video.
Thanks Andrew. I always enjoy your videos, and I'm impressed by your production skills. Although I tried 510-Pyro I don't use it as I found its shadow speed to be quite low. I only mixed up one batch, and I used Neopan400 which is sadly discontinued.
I was looking forward to your video to see what sort of speed you could achieve. Maybe I'm not interpreting your numbers correctly, but at around the 8 minute mark in the video, it seems that Zone_II is 0.11 above FB+F which suggests that it's about a stop slow, as that's what is usually aimed for for Zone_I. If your metered speed was 250, that would then indicate that the combination is around 1.6 stops under box speed. Is that a correct interpretation?
It was good to see the acidic fixer issue put to rest (and by Koraks too).
Did an experiment using 510 Pyro on MF film using Fomapan 400 film and I have no complaints with this developer. Used my Mamiya C330 with a 180 f4.5 lens
I know who you speak of... I would never work that way as I would always have under exposed negatives. His Zone III and my Zone III are wildly different, I am sure. EI's are important to me and how I work... Especially when I'm working with a hand held, 1degree spot. Dennis used his C330, which requires a hand held metre of some sort...So, I feel my question is valid. We choose a way that works best for us.
As far as photography goes it is just a box with a hole in it and the equipment is functioning properly leaves something good on the film. And technique I feel if it is your camera/lens and film you should be able to put what you want on it without the approval/disapproval of anyone else as there is so many variables involved for the perfect picture in film photography.
Maybe equipment doesn't matter... but technique certainly does.
I have found that Pyrocat HD when used on Orwo UN 54 film leaves pinholes in my negatives. I have tried remixing P Cat HD/HDC and using stop or water and tried different fixers but they were still evident.
This incompatibility is not unique. Adox CHS 100 II is known to be incompatible with certain pyro developers. From what I understand it is not only the carbonate, but the working pH seems to be the cruel pit as well. Both datasheets, CHS's datasheets as well as Finol's datasheets, mention this.I too faced the same problem with Orwo UN54 - Pyrocat combination. I reported the problem to Filmotec but they didn't acknowledge any flaws in the film based on the batch number.
This incompatibility is not unique. Adox CHS 100 II is known to be incompatible with certain pyro developers. From what I understand it is not only the carbonate, but the working pH seems to be the cruel pit as well. Both datasheets, CHS's datasheets as well as Finol's datasheets, mention this.
[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.moersch-photochemie.de/files/articles/Finol 16 Oktober 2015.pdf[/URL] (Note: look for the 'II' version of CHS)
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Pyro Film Chemistry
For anyone who uses or is interested in pyro film processing, whether ABC, PMK, or another version. Please share your photos and your expertise! Good external sources: The Massive Film Developing Chart provides times and concentrations for PMK and other versions, organized by film type and...www.flickr.com
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